Re: Restoring Instument Panels

["Joe Wyatt" <jwyatt@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Todd, you can check with Radio Shack they have a PC Board making kit to 
build your own, kit info is #276-1576 PC Board KIT INCLUDES: . Two 3x4-1/2" 
copper-clad circuit boards . Resist-ink pen to create circuit patterns . 
Etching and stripping solutions

They may not have boards as large as you need them but you can order large 
Copper-clad PC board ready to be etched from

http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?item=TEK-5

Pointers on Etching your own PC Board = The following how to was taken from 
web site:

http://www.oldtemecula.com/theremin/board-etching.htm

This is easier to do than it appears!
(Read completely before beginning)

I prefer a single-sided copper on a fiberglass epoxy boards

Use a Laser Printer like the HP-4. Print the PDF files onto a blank piece of 
70#, 80# or 100# glossy paper like that used in magazines. Gloss computer 
photo printer paper can work but I prefer the 70#, it is thinner and more 
transparent. These laser type printers use a big plastic container of black 
powdered ink.

( I have heard the black ink of a copy machine might work so maybe if you 
print the PDF on a standard ink jet printer you could then make a copy on 
100# glossy paper in a Xerox type copy machine. Let me know?)

Start: (Once you have everything ready, etching and drilling takes less than 
an hour)

If you use the Radio Shack two sided copper board the top copper side must 
be completely etched away. (removed)
Cut your raw copper clad circuit board to the proper size. You could leave 
your board larger if you're unable to cut it.

Clean your raw pc board with something like Windex window cleaner and a 
kitchen scrub pad to remove any oxidation or grease films. Then dry without 
touching the copper surface with your fingers.

Scissor trim the PDF image to have 1/2" (13mm) overhang around the raw 
copper board size. Position the PDF pattern on the raw copper board and 
place a second piece of paper over that with one side taped down. I use my 
thick glass dinning room table with a lamp underneath for positioning.

Pre-heat your iron on the cotton setting minimum (no steam, duh). Set the 
iron on the top paper on the board to heat up everything for about 15 to 30 
seconds. If your iron is to hot the ink between the IC pads could melt 
together but not likely, to cold and the ink transfer will not occur.

With firm rubbing pressure,  iron the pattern onto your copper board using 
the tip and edges of the iron. Do this all around the board, especially the 
board edges. Use the edge of the iron for solid contact.

Lay the top paper back and peek under the PDF pattern edges and see if the 
transfer is occurring. If not add a little more heat or pressure. The hot 
ink will look light gray on the board.
Now soak the board with a liberal amount of Windex with Ammonia (window 
cleaner) for about 5 minutes to release the paper. Peel back the excess 
paper, use gentle rubbing of your finger and your finger nail in between 
close pads like the IC's. The black ink sticks tightly to clean copper.

If you have one weak line or pad the best thing to do is protect the area 
with a BIC Wite-Out correction pen. This works perfectly, much better than a 
black ink resist marker.

If you are not happy with your results then consider this first shot as 
practice and do the above again. I removed the black ink using charcoal 
lighter or kerosene and a scrub pad.

A light gray coating from the papers gloss glaze is left on top of the black 
ink. I left it on my board for a little more protection against etching. It 
is this gloss glaze that allows the black printer ink to release from the 
paper fibers when soaked.
Use a toothpick to remove the glaze between the IC solder pads and any close 
lines.

If you use the Radio Shack two sided copper board make certain the top 
copper is completely removed. Make certain the bottom of the board has room 
for the enchant to move freely. If you use a round bowl the sides of the 
bowl could hold the board away from the bottom. Pour enough etchant so the 
board is covered about 1/4" (6mm).

ferric chloride solution Radio Shack # 276-1499

Use a rubber bowl and gently rock it back and forth to manually agitate the 
solution while the etching occurs.
Etching in the ferric chloride solution takes about 20 - 30 minutes if 
warmed to above 75 degrees F, I set my solution in the sun while working. 
Cover the board about 1/4" (6mm) so you can observe the etching process 
easily. Carefully watch for the last area of copper as it begins to dissolve 
away completely, then your done. Now rinse your board thoroughly under tap 
water. The solution will stain so use caution in how you rinse!

Drill using the smallest drill bit you can purchase so the part wire leads 
fit snuggly through the copper pad holes. A drill press and a 1/32 bit works 
great for most resistor and DIP holes. A #66 bit is even better.  A slightly 
larger bit for the output cables and pots might be preferred.

You will destroy your board using a drill bit that is larger!

Dremel Accessories a Lowe's Hardware have a drill combination 5 pack with 
one 1/32"  bit.

Drill Bit City has mail order #66 drill bits with a fatter shank for holding 
in the chuck. 5 bits $8.15 usd

If needed use a small center punch or nail to dimple the pad if etching did 
not make a mark. After drilling use a disposable shaving razor to clean the 
component side of the board of drilling bumps and debris.

After Drilling the holes and shaving align the top silkscreen on the board. 
My glass table and a light on the floor works great for this. Now iron on 
the component images.

Once again soak the board with Windex with Ammonia or better yet use a Bath 
& Shower cleaner that removes calcium & soap build up (Shower Power). Soak 
for about 5 minutes to release the paper. Peel back the excess paper, use 
gentle rubbing of your finger or a very soft toothbrush to gently remove the 
gray paper glaze from the black ink adhered to the board.
Special Notes:
* Use a scrub pad to clean the copper traces of oxidation before assembling 
and soldering.
* I like to spray the top silkscreen component images with a light coating 
of lacquer spray paint to protect them from scuffing.
* When the soldering is finished it is wise to spray lacquer paint on the 
copper foil patterns that same day to prevent the rapid copper oxidation 
that occurs.

Joe Wyatt/Pittsburg Texas

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Message-ID: <00be01c5099d$27dfeff0$0200a8c0@gamer>
From: "Todd  Wallis" <cyclone@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Restoring Instument Panels
Date: Wed, 2 Feb 2005 21:05:03 -0600


I've seen ads for people that restore (or possibly reproduce) the simple
circuit boards in the back of the old gauge clusters.  Anyone know what I'm
talking about?  Did I just dream this up?

Anyway, mine is in bad shape and I would like to get another made if
possible.

Suggestions?

Todd Wallis
Austin, TX