Jay, What you are looking for is here, I think: http://www.amcyclopedia.org/tiki-read_article.php?articleId=3 I have the paper version of this mod which I can fax to you also if you give me a fax number. I have performed this mod on a 199 six but the motor has not been started since the rebuild, so I don't know how it will work. I also put in a high volume oil pump. Regards, Joe Fulton Salinas, CA --- Jay <jciampi@xxxxxxxx> wrote: > Matt, do tyou have any more service bulletins for > the Americans fropm > 1966-69? I am looking for the one to correct the > oiling problem for the > rocker shafts on the early 232 engines. > > Jay in FL> > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Matt Haas" <mhaas@xxxxxxx> > To: <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx> > Sent: Sunday, November 07, 2004 5:18 PM > Subject: Re: engine vibration 232 engine > > > > Jay, > > > > You can see the service bulletin here: > > > http://www.mattsoldcars.com/RestoreAmerican/loose_intake.shtml. > It's not > > an exact copy of it, but what I got my hands on > wasn't either. I'd love to > > have a copy of the original but what I put on my > site should cover it. One > > other thing that I just remembered -- the exhaust > donut gasket in the > > FelPro gasket set was the wrong size for my > manifolds. I think it was too > > small. The donut gasket I ended up with was also > made by FelPro and sold > > as fitting the same applications but worked okay. > I don't know if that was > > just a fluke or if it's still even a problem since > the last gasket set I > > bought was about 5 years ago. > > > > There's also another one for 1964-6 sixes about > carbon build up in the > > intake manifold from the heat riser valve not > working properly causing > > stumbling and hesitation. This fix for that is to > remove the manifolds, > > burn the carbon off with a torch, install a new > heat riser valve, and put > > everything back together. I doubt you'll be able > to find a new heat riser > > valve but if it isn't working, you can just cut it > out and put in a couple > > of pipe plugs. I've driven mine in about 10 degree > weather since having > > mine cut out and driveability was okay. > > > > Matt > > > > At 03:40 PM 11/7/2004 -0500, you wrote: > >>I already replaced the U-Joints when I replaced > the tranny mount. I > >>already thought about the rear wheel brgs, but > havenj't done anything with > >>them yet. I have brand new tires (last week) and > it had the vibration > >>before I had the tires changed. I guess the next > thing to do is remove > >>the manifolds, put on a new gasket and i have a > new exhaust manifold to > >>replace the old one(its getting noisy,thin walls, > I think). > >>Have you a copy of the service bulletin you could > email me a copy of? > >> > >>Jay > >>----- Original Message ----- From: "Matt Haas" > <mhaas@xxxxxxx> > >>To: <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx> > >>Sent: Sunday, November 07, 2004 2:41 PM > >>Subject: Re: engine vibration 232 engine > >> > >> > >>>Jay, > >>> > >>>I just found out that there was a service > bulletin issued in 1969 about > >>>rough idle and/or surging on six cylinders. The > fix was new intake > >>>manifold gaskets and a specific intake torque > sequence. The bad part > >>>about this fix is that you need to separate the > intake and exhaust > >>>manifolds and there's a good chance that one of > those studs or bolts will > >>>break. > >>> > >>>The torque sequence starts with the top left bolt > behind the carburetor > >>>and works clockwise outward. After that, it calls > for tightening the nuts > >>>on the intake to exhaust manifold studs (left > first, then right) between > >>>the carburetor and motor and then the outer > manifold bolts (the ones that > >>>are on the bottom) in the same order. > >>> > >>>The vibration could be a bunch of things. Once > you fix the wheel > >>>bearings, try over-inflating the tires (add bout > 10 psi) and see if it > >>>changes or goes away. You could also have any of > the following out of > >>>balance or damaged: wheels and tires, drums, > driveshaft. Also, worn out > >>>u-joints or rear wheel bearings can cause > vibration. > >>> > >>>Matt > >>> > >>>At 11:35 AM 11/7/2004 -0500, you wrote: > >>>>I finally got around to tightening the intake > and exhaust manifolds to > >>>>25 ft/lbs and it did help the vibration problem > but not entirely. I > >>>>also have a synchronous vibration while driving > at about 35 mph. If I > >>>>let up on the gas it diminishes slightly . There > is a "flex" fan on the > >>>>engine, seems to be in good condition and the > water pump has no play in > >>>>the shaft. I would like to find a 5 blade OEM > fan as i don't like flex > >>>>fans much. The problem with that is it is a > small fan because of hose > >>>>clearance problems. You have an American, so you > know what I mean. The > >>>>35 mph bibration may be a wheel bearing going > bad. When I got the car > >>>>back in April, I was checking things over and > found the LF wheel was NOT > >>>>tightened down properly at the wheel shaft nut. > I tightened the nut > >>>>about a 1/4 turn until I had no play in the > wheel when held at the top > >>>>and bottom. I have no idea how many miles the > bearing was loose and > >>>>driven that way. I am going to replace the > bearings on the front wheels > >>>>just to be safe. BTW, I had a simliar 35 mph > vibration on my 66 AMBO > >>>>and I never did find out what caused it. the > only thing i didn' t > >>>>replace on it was the engine mounts. I have > replaced the tranny mount on > >>>>the American. > >>>> > >>>>Jay > >>>>----- Original Message ----- From: "Matt Haas" > <mhaas@xxxxxxx> > >>>>To: <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx> > >>>>Sent: Monday, November 01, 2004 8:54 PM > >>>>Subject: Re: engine vibration 232 engine > >>>> > >>>> > >>>>>Jay, > >>>>> > >>>>>Check the intake manifold bolts. My American > did that and tightening > >>>>>the bolts solved the problem. > >>>>> > >>>>>Matt > >>>>> > >>>>>At 06:12 PM 10/31/2004 -0500, you wrote: > >>>>>>Hey Guys, i have a 66 American with the > 232/2bbl engine. I have set > >>>>>>the timing, set the idle speed at 700 rpm in > neutral/ 550 in drive. > >>>>>>The engine has new plugs and points, doesn't > appear to have any vacuum > >>>>>>leaks. At the 550 rpm speed the engine has a > rapid vibration which is > >>>>>>quite annoying. The vibration mostly stops > when i speed the engine up > >>>>>>above the idle. I have replaced the tranny > mount which was dissolved > >>>>>>from tranny fluid getting on it before i got > the car. Could the engine > >>>>>>mounts be so old and stiff that they won't > absorb even the slightest > >>>>>>vibration and transmit it to the frame? I had > a 65 American with a > >>>>>>232/2bbl when it was new in 65 and i don;t > remember it being anything > >>>>>>but smooth idling. The engine runs smoothly as > far a vacuum gauge > >>>>>>shows, no fluctuations due to worn valves or > rings. The engine doesn't > >>>>>>smoke and has 120k miles on the odometer. > Someone did put the oil kit > >>>>>>from the side of the block up into the valve > cover as suggested in a > >>>>>>service bulletin. I know that has nothing to > do with the idle. Just > >>>>>>mentioning it as I hadn't seen this done to > many 232 engines. I > === message truncated ===