RE: Shill Bidding?

["John W Rosa" <JohnRosa@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

The term is 'shilling' not shrilling....FYI. :)

The zeros don't automatically mean a shiller 
is at work. Everyone has to start somewhere.

And even if a shiller really was at work, it 
can't affect you really...except that you won't 
'steal' the item.

A shiller is really an 'invisible reserve', 
nothing more. They can't force you to bid over 
your maximum. Only YOU can do that, and then 
it becomes your own fault.

Decide what it's worth, and bid that number.
Then, DON'T re-bid higher.

If no shilling happens, and no one else wants 
it, you'll win it.

If shilling happens, you'll either pay the 
maximum you already decided to pay (if the shiller 
is good and figures out what your max bid is, then 
bids just under it), or the shiller will outbid 
you and the seller won't sell the car- effectively, 
a 'reserve'.

While it doesn't sell that time, you can rest 
assured that he wasted his listing fees AND will 
pay eBay a final value fee for the final bid 
price....cuz eBay sees it as 'sold'. :)

THEN, he has to re-list again, claiming the prior 
winner didn't follow through....and pays again to 
relist it. He can't ask for the prior fees to be 
waived without leaving negative feedback for the 
shiller...which is usually a pal.

Whatever the outcome, they can't make you pay more 
than you were willing to pay from the start. Only
you can lose your head and start bidding silly.
And then, it's your fault.

And that's my .02.


John W Rosa

http://www.JavelinAMX.com