Re: [AMC-list] Thinking 'bout transmissions
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Re: [AMC-list] Thinking 'bout transmissions



T14 is on the way.
Looking for a 2 barrel intake for the 232/258. Anyone have one for sale?
Considering the exhaust system and the cam. Won't mess with the head. I'm thinking if I were to go that route, I'd just pick up a 258, put it in a corner and use it for a project.

Anybody here got's an aardvark? Or a 2 barrel intake for a 232 / 258?

On 06/21/2012 08:52 AM, markprice242 wrote:
My two cents from my perspective. Take your time and by all means go to the T14 if you can swing the deal at all. You will end up doing a repair or swap on the T96 sooner or later. Get it out of there. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We all tend to get in a hurry at times with these projects and that ends up, sooner or later, making us regret the path traveled or the short cut taken to get to the end sooner. Even if you can't do the entire swap, I'd lay that T14 in my parts pile. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~ For a driveshaft you can often find the length you need in a yard. My AMC T5 is hooked up to an unmodified 77 Pinto Wagon driveshaft! It even took the same U-joints. Remember there are adapter ujoints to go between larger and smaller yokes. Most decent parts stores or driveshaft shops have them on the shelf. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Mark (wrambler) ----- Original Message -----
(snip)
Frankstuff:
Clifford products are expensive. The first thing I'd do to hop up a
232 is ditch the head and put a 4.0L head on it. Pre 97 models have
a
nice cast aluminum valve cover, and the 91-99 factory header is
good
too. The stamped steel 97-99 valve cover is much nicer than the
original 232, and the 97-99 heads are a bit better flowing.
Junkyard
prices -- you can get the three pieces for a lot less than the
Clifford parts AND have a better flowing head to boot. The only
caveat to this is you need to figure out what length pushrods are
needed for the 64-70 "short deck" 199/232. No one has done this
yet.
I'd try the 4.0L pushrods and see how they fit, and the original
232
pushrods. The originals are likely solid and you need hollow
pushrods, but you can check for fit and even run a few seconds with
no problem (but not more than 40-60 seconds!!). If neither of those
fit right you will need to buy a "checking" adjustable pushrod from
someone like Comp Cams and set one cylinder up right, measure the
pushrod (and send it back set right) and order the right length. If
you do that let me know what length worked! Check the lifters also.
They should have an oil hole in the pushrod seat (top), but may
not.
Lifters are relatively cheap, but I'd replace the cam anyway if the
head was off. An Isky Supercam will really wake up a stock AMC
six!!
Regardless of what you do for intake and exhaust, you REALLY need
to
upgrade the cam. That will make more power for the least effort
even
if all other parts are stock -- but will be best with improved
intake
and exhaust to really let it reach its potential.



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