Re: [AMC-list] 232 engine head.
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Re: [AMC-list] 232 engine head.



If you have a rocker shaft it oils through the head bolt mod port. seperate rockers oils through the pushrod. I suppose you could use hollow pushrods on a shaft setup and get oil from both areas. unless it is a very "tight" engine with good oil pressure I'd wonder if the light might flicker at idle if oiling through both. Mark, now working on my second 50 years as of yesterday. ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Thomas Garner" <Tgarner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: "Matt Haas" <mhaas@xxxxxxx>
> Cc: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Sent: Friday, June 8, 2012 6:50:59 PM
> Subject: Re: [AMC-list] 232 engine head.
> It's funny you mentioned oil going up through the pushrods, cause I
> noticed that mine does too. I suppose my engine may have been replaced
> at some point with an early 70's engine OR maybe it has a 4.0 head
> already. IDK. I also noticed the head bolt modification had not been
> performed as explained on Matt's site. I was preparing to do that, but
> was a bit confused about the pushrods bring oil up. Since this appears
> to be a later model engine than I expect, (probably early to mid 70's
> I guess)I probably don't need to do the bolt mod right?
> Online Social Network and Reputation Management for Automotive
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> --- mhaas@xxxxxxx wrote:
> From: Matt Haas <mhaas@xxxxxxx>
> To: Tgarner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx,  "AMC, Rambler, Nash, Jeep and family"
> <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: [AMC-list] 232 engine head.
> Date: Fri, 08 Jun 2012 17:15:39 -0400
> One of the issues you'll run into is the valve train oiling is
> different. You car has a passage that runs up through the engine but
> later engines (staring in the early 70's) oil through the push rods.
> You'd also have to change lifters and push rods to use a later head.
> It sounds to me like the easiest and cheapest fix is to replace the
> head
> gasket (you'll need one anyway to swap a head). Make sure you have the
> head checked to see if it's warped.
> Matt
> On 6/7/2012 11:58 PM, Thomas Garner spouted this sage advice:
> > Ok, I have been  told several times that if the opportunity arose,
> > that I should put a 4.0 or 4.2 liter head on my 232 engine. (1964
> > AMC Rambler Classic)
> >   Well my car was sitting for about 3 years. I finally got around to
> > putting on a 2bbl carb./intake/exhaust manifold setup on it, and
> > actually drove it from it's 3 year spot in my yard.
> >   It ran like crap. I have been working on and it and I found a
> > vacuum leak or three here and there. It helped considerably, but
> > still not right. I moved around to the passenger side while it was
> > running and I saw water (and oil too I think) bubbling out pretty
> > good on the side of my engine where the head and block meet. DANG
> > DANG DANG.
> >   Well after my momentary "2 year old" like temper tantrum, I
> > decided to browse Craigslist for a 4.0 or 4.2 head.
> >
> >    I haven't really had luck with the 4.2, but I've found several
> > 4.0 heads. It seems I remember, and googled, that the 4.0 was the
> > way to go anyways.
> >   My 2 bbl carb./intake setup came off an 1981 Spirit with a 258.
> >   I'm guessing I won't have a problem getting the 4.0 head to mate
> > with the 258 intake/exhaust, but not sure. Will it work ok? Will I
> > be ok using my 2 bbl carb. setup on a 4.0 head or does it have to be
> > fuel injection? Do I need or should I get a specific year head?
> >
> >   I can get a 96 or 98 head for $50 each or I can buy a complete 4.0
> > engine that was in a wreck for $150, but the head has apparently
> > been rebuilt recently.
> >
> >   Anybody got some info?
> >
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> >
> --
> mhaas@xxxxxxx
> Cincinnati, OH
> http://www.mattsoldcars.com
> 1967 Rambler American wagon
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