Re: [AMC-list] 327 rear main leak - quick fix?

[markprice242 <wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Frank's method was in the TSM for mid 80's Pontiac front wheel drives. I never had a repeat. just pack the upper half as tight as you can get it. I used an aneorobic (SP?) sealer on the flats of the cap. It looks like locktight and is designed to only fill the machine gaps and such so it won't hold the cap away from the block. ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Frank Swygert" <farna@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Cc: "Clifton Danley" <am401@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Sunday, February 26, 2012 9:46:44 PM
> Subject: Re: [AMC-list] 327 rear main leak - quick fix?
> There is really no "quick fix" for a rope seal. The only thing I can
> think of still involves dropping the pan and pulling the rear main
> cap. Then you use a brass punch to "pack" the ends of the seal in the
> upper cavity of the block (around the crank). Cut short pieces of the
> new seal and pack them in the holes left from packing the old upper
> half. Then replace the lower half with the new one. Put the rear main
> cap and pan back on. That's the best you can do!
> Since you're at that pint, however, it's not all that hard to loosen
> the rest of the mains (incrementally, from front to back, the front
> one just need to drop maybe 1/16", 3rd from front maybe 1/4") and pull
> the upper half out, and pull the new one around. Take a 16d nail and
> cut it off, maybe 1/2" under the head. Stick that in the rear oil feed
> hole and rotate the crank. The head of the nail will push the seal
> out. Getting the new one around is a bit harder. There used to be a
> "chinese handcuff" type device to pull a rope seal around, doubt
> you'll find anything like that now! Once the new upper is in place
> tighten all the main caps then trim the ends with about 1/16" hanging
> out. Pack the ends with a punch and trim any excess with a sharp razor
> knife. Then replace lower seal in cap and put it on. It's best to
> leave the lower about 1/16" long on each side, taper the ends with a
> razor knife. The ends will compress when the cap is put on. Just make
> sure the cap goes one without
> any bits of seal on the mating surfaces. You may have torque it up
> then pull it off and check. Instead of tapering the ends of the
> bottom, you might want to put a dab of sealer on the ends.
> Good luck getting the thing to seal 100%! I never was able to, even
> when rebuilding a rope seal engine. It seems they will always leak
> just a little -- just enough to "mark their territory" after a nice
> long drive. The "Best" brand rope seals are supposed to be the best...
> Galvin's sells them. The material is a more modern blend than the hemp
> used for the originals. Don't know what it is, and haven't used one
> myself, but I've heard good reports about them.
> ---------------
> Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2012 19:31:35 -0500
> From: "cliff"<am401@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> To:<amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: [AMC-list] AMC-list Digest, Vol 35, Issue 23
> I have a 327 with a rear main leak. Are there any temporary
> "quick-fixes"
> that work? I know it will need to be done right eventually but I need
> a
> temporary fix if one works.
> Cliff Danley
> --
> Frank Swygert
> Editor - American Motors Cars Magazine
> www.amc-mag.com
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