Sent from my LG phone amc-list-request@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote: >Send AMC-list mailing list submissions to > amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > >To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://list.amc-list.com/listinfo.cgi/amc-list-amc-list.com >or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > amc-list-request@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > >You can reach the person managing the list at > amc-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > >When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific >than "Re: Contents of AMC-list digest..." > > >Today's Topics: > > 1. Re: A great AMC day (C The) > 2. Re: Fw: large disc brake master cyclinder conversion help > (Frank Swygert) > 3. Fw: HORNET BRAKES ON A AMERICAN (Eddie Stakes) > 4. Re: A great AMC day (Marc Montoni) > > >---------------------------------------------------------------------- > >Message: 1 >Date: Wed, 7 Sep 2011 12:31:01 -0700 (PDT) >From: C The <kwtheaker@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> >To: "amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx" <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> >Subject: Re: [AMC-list] A great AMC day >Message-ID: > <1315423861.85676.YahooMailNeo@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > >? > >>>Things always seem to work just before you throw in the towel. >I'm going to try throwin' it in earlier, see if that helps. ? i liked >the freezer & the oven part.?? congrats on the fixin'. > >? --carl > >------------------- >? >Then after getting the big bolt today, and messing around a couple times, on >the second try, lo and behold, just when I was about to throw in the towel, >head into the house and get a white russian drink to soothe my >frustrations, the darn thing literally fell together. I wa sso elated, I put >away all the tools, headed into the house, mixed up that white russian and >sat down to tell you guys all about it. > > >AMC Ya ! > >Armand >-------------- next part -------------- >An HTML attachment was scrubbed... >URL: <http://list.amc-list.com/pipermail/amc-list-amc-list.com/attachments/20110907/03c2225f/attachment.htm> > > >------------------------------ > >Message: 2 >Date: Wed, 07 Sep 2011 16:20:44 -0400 >From: Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx> >To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx >Cc: mdalton@xxxxxxxxxxxx >Subject: Re: [AMC-list] Fw: large disc brake master cyclinder > conversion help >Message-ID: <4E67D21C.4090207@xxxxxxx> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed > >Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2011 21:08:15 -0500 >From: "Eddie Stakes"<eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> >To:<baadassGremlins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>,<amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx> >Cc:mdalton@xxxxxxxxxxxx >Subject: [AMC-list] Fw: large disc brake master cyclinder conversion > help >Message-ID:<0250DC8296D3421E94B0038851B55189@piageedc1iqa5q> >Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; > reply-type=original > >Eddie said you have a 76 Hornet disc setup to go on the American. That would be the master cylinder you need to use. The non-power disc master cylinder has a 1-1/16" bore. You would be fine using a 1" bore MC that the non-power and drum brake cars used though. The smaller bore will actually increase pressure to the brakes, but might be a little harder to push with the leg. I used a 1" bore MC on a couple non-power disc brake applications (61 and a 63 American, but with the smaller 2.6" piston Bendix calipers) with no problems. A 1" bore MC was stock on the 68 Americans, and most other AMCs and Ramblers. I don't think any came with a 15/16" MC (I checked the 68 TSM). > >Armand had the best suggestion for plumbing the brakes. You can use new lines and run them like the Hornet. On dry pavement the brakes will work just fine without a proportioning device -- AMC didn't have one on late 70s/early 80s Concords and Spirits. If you find you need one or are more comfortable running one you have two choices: > >1) plumb the brakes up to the stock 68 junction/brake light switch block. Add a late 60s Camaro/Javelin fixed proportioning valve (available from Inline Tube -- they call it a pressure limiter, and have it listed for the Javelin under Chrysler, IIRC) in the rear brake line. Easiest to add between the rubber line and axle end of the rear brake line. Just mount the valve on the "frame" rail and bend the original line over to the inlet, run a new length of line from the outlet to the bracket where the original line was mounted. I wouldn't try to cut the original line and put on a flare nut, just loop it over and make sure it's held against the body. The loop won't hurt a thing. > >2) plumb the Hornet valve up just the way it came out of the Hornet and drop the original block. If you want to keep the original block for some reason, maybe to keep the original pressure switch, move it higher up on the firewall or fender well and run it between the MC and new combination valve. Get new lines from the auto parts store to go between the block and combo valve and block and MC. There were two different combo valves used depending on year and model. One has a metering valve one does not. The one with metering has two outlets for the front brakes, the one without has a T in the line between the MC and combo valve for the left front brake and the right front brake is connected to the combo valve front brake outlet. Either is fine. The generic GM replacement (also found on 90s Jeep XJ Cherokees) doesn't have the metering function. > >No balancing device is needed as long as the brakes are sized properly. The problem here is you are increasing front braking, which takes some of the load off the rear brakes. That means the rears could lock up in a hard stop (especially a panic stop) even on dry pavement, and probably will on wet/icy pavement or other slippery conditions. I always check on a dirt road as I have plenty of those around. A wet asphalt parking lot (not just damp, but not in standing water either) is next best. Get up to 40-45 and brake normally. Should be no signs of locking. Do the same and brake real hard. The rears should just start to lock when you brake as hard as you can. That's okay -- it's to be expected. But you should be able to brake hard (but not quite a panic stop) without the rears locking, or with them just starting to lock. The Camaro/Javelin valve will usually work just fine, but you might want to get an adjustable valve and tweak it to your car and driving style. That's the be s > t way. > > > ----- Original Message ----- >From: "michael dalton"mdalton@xxxxxxxxxxxx > > >Eddie as per are conversation earlier. what i an looking for is a larger master >cylinder bore for my non power disc brake conversion. the bore size on my master cylinder >is 15/16 , i an going to need something larger like 11/4 to make this non power bendix >disc brakes to work well. can anyone out there recommend a master cylinder unit that will >work on my 1968 american mike > > > >-- >Frank Swygert >Publisher, "American Motors Cars" >Magazine (AMC) >For all AMC enthusiasts >http://www.amc-mag.com >(free download available!) > > > > >------------------------------ > >Message: 3 >Date: Wed, 7 Sep 2011 18:46:36 -0500 >From: "Eddie Stakes" <eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> >To: <baadassGremlins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>, <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx> >Cc: mdalton@xxxxxxxxxxxx >Subject: [AMC-list] Fw: HORNET BRAKES ON A AMERICAN >Message-ID: <3BA82EFCE2094FEF86978887B44B0D11@piageedc1iqa5q> >Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; > reply-type=response > >Continued.......Mike is still trying tog et this going and I have been forwarding him all >the information ya'll have been so kind to share on both amc-list & badassgremlin groups. >Feel free to comment & be sure to also copy reply to him & thanks in advance to all who >might reply also. >Eddie Stakes >713.464.8825 >eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx >www.planethoustonamx.com > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "michael dalton" <mdalton@xxxxxxxxxxxx> >To: <eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> >Sent: Wednesday, September 07, 2011 4:59 PM >Subject: HORNET BRAKES ON A AMERICAN > > >> EDDIE THE PROBLEM I AN HAVING NOW IS FINDING A DISC BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER FOR A 69 >> FIREWALL THE ONE OFF THE HORNET IS TOO NARROW OF A BOLT PATTERN ,THE 1 INCH BORE WILL >> WORK BUT FINDING A DISC BRAKE UNIT WITH THE RIGHT BOLT UP SPACING IS MAYBE YOUR >> MEMBERS CAN HELP . MIKE1-520-896-2957 >> > > > >------------------------------ > >Message: 4 >Date: Wed, 07 Sep 2011 23:40:34 -0400 >From: Marc Montoni <Freedom@xxxxxxxx> >To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx >Subject: Re: [AMC-list] A great AMC day >Message-ID: <20110908034131.5F55F8DB0A9D@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > >Armand wrote: > >>Then after getting the big bolt today, and messing around a couple times, on >>the second try, lo and behold, just when I was about to throw in the towel, >> head into the house and get a white russian drink to soothe my >>frustrations, the darn thing literally fell together. I wa sso elated, I put >>away all the tools, headed into the house, mixed up that white russian and >>sat down to tell you guys all about it. > > >Now you know that the trick is to *start* with the liquor. > >-- Marc > > > > >------------------------------ > >_______________________________________________ >AMC-list mailing list >AMC-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx >http://list.amc-list.com/listinfo.cgi/amc-list-amc-list.com > > >End of AMC-list Digest, Vol 30, Issue 10 >**************************************** _______________________________________________ AMC-list mailing list AMC-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx http://list.amc-list.com/listinfo.cgi/amc-list-amc-list.com