[AMC-list] Brake problem

[RAY MICK <rmick@xxxxxxx>]

Sherry is having a problem with her 81 Concord attached is a vehicle history of the problem Please feel free to contact her @ Sherry Musick <sherry_musick@xxxxxxxxxxx> :(316) 765-3068
06-01-2011

 

1981 AMC Concord

My car has not been started in over two years. The battery is dead. You have to open the hood and leave the hood open when starting the car. Pour some gas in the carburetor. Gently turn key forward and nudge car to start. Car engine might over speed when started. If this happens, pull coil wire out of distributor cap to shut off engine. Car has a new starter and a new ignition control module so it should start okay.

 

Brake Problem:

My car has a hard brake and a long stopping distance. The rear brake shoes are dragging on the drums. The brake problems began when I replaced the pads on the disc brakes, so that it would pass the safety inspection in VA in 2004. The red warning light came on after applying the brakes a few times and I have repeatedly bled the brake lines. The bleed screws were worn out and air kept leaking into the lines. I've fixed this problem. I've replaced the master cylinder twice. The first master cylinder was new with a life time warranty, and had a bad metering valve on top. The fluid wouldn't flow between the two chambers. I've installed a rebuilt master cylinder, new drums, new rear wheel cylinders, pads, shoes, and calipers on the front disc brakes. The brake problem is still there. There is no brake fade.

 

History:

Nov. 2001, replaced the front calipers, master cylinder, brake pads, shoes, etc. An Olds dealer (formerly an AMC dealership) replaced the front brake hoses.

 

Jan. 4, 2003, my car's brake warning light came on, the brake pedal was too low and felt spongy. I purchased two front calipers and a new (not rebuilt) master cylinder. A brake place said my car needs 3 tie rods--left inner tie rod, right inner and outer tie rod ends and possibly the adjusting sleeves, new rear leaf springs and alignment. The new master cylinder I purchased doesn't work and it's defective. Maybe the metering valve is bad. 

 

Jan. 2003, replaced the calipers, tie rod ends, sleeves, alignment, and defective MC with a used MC. Replace the rear leaf springs (nuts, bolts, bushings) so the car could be aligned. I'm not sure if they balanced the wheels and packed the front wheel bearings. They said, "possible problem with the front brake hoses--feels ok on the road--one wheel is hard to move on the lift." The proportioning valve was not replaced. In Jan., 2003, the brake place said I could drive my car, but one wheel was hard to turn while my car was on the lift. They said all I had to worry about were the worn brake hoses and I should watch them. I did not like the way the brakes and steering felt when I got my car back. Then, the front left wheel began making loud grinding noise when making right turns, the wheels squeaked when I applied the brakes, etc. The brake pads were worn.

 

April 2003, Replace the front wheel rotors instead of the master cylinder. The old brake pads have damaged the rotors and the calipers were bad. Install front rotors, inner and outer wheel bearings, calipers and brake pads made from organic material which emit an odor until they are broken in.

 

Oct. 2003, the front brake hoses are bad. The brake place has warned me about wear on the front and rear brake hoses.

 

Nov. 2003, rreplaced both front brake hoses and pads. The hose on the right front wheel has a kink in it, or there is some restriction in the line causing the front brake pad to intermittently grab the front rotor causing drag on the front wheel. The brake pad will not release from the front rotor. Sometimes, this causes the engine to overheat at high speeds on the road. A bad MC and/or brake calipers could also be causing the problem. The front brake pads are glazed over. I don't know if drag on right front wheel has caused damage to hardware.

 

Sept. 2004, my car passed the safety test in VA.

 

Dec. 20, 2004, the brakes went out. It was very cold that day (about 10 degrees) and when I put my foot on the brake pedal to shift into reverse gear, the pedal went all the way to the floor. I think there is a rubber part in the hydraulic brake system that got too cold to operate or close properly.

 

Jan. 2005, my car passed the emissions test in VA.

 

Jan. 2005, replaced the MC, but the brakes weren't working properly, and the mechanic at the gas station didn't know what was wrong. The brake warning light came on again. I think he couldn't bleed the front brake lines because the screws on the calipers were rusted shut. Air bubbles would build up inside the brakes lines every time I applied the brakes and the warning light came on.

 

Feb. 2005, replaced the front bare calipers with loaded ones. I might need a new proportioning valve too.

 

Feb. 2005, you can probably be okay with a bad proportioning valve for a short drive. Check to make sure the fronts aren't dragging badly and the car will roll down a slight incline by itself and stop okay. Check to make sure it's not sticking hard, drive it around a few miles locally and check the front hubs with your hand carefully to see if it's blazing hot or just hot. They will get very hot - that's why I use the "roll on incline" test method, if they're really sticking the car won't even roll in neutral. If it will, it's not sticking badly enough to worry about. Not sure if the proportioning valve will cause the discs to stick, but I think they can.

 

A Jeep dealer suggested that I buy either an adjustable valve for the rear brakes (no dash light) or a universal valve for street rods, (J.C. Whitney also sells them). He talked about a hold off valve? Installation would require different fittings, replumbing, and more labor costs.

 

Chilton's book says it might be a power brake unit vacuum check valve malfunction.

 

The 1981 AMC service manual says there might be an internal malfunction in the power brake unit that’s causing the hard brake. The power brake unit could be binding internally. This part must be serviced as an assembly and cannot be disassembled, so I might have to buy another one. Not sure if the power brake unit can be rebuilt by a mechanic. There is place that rebuilds brake parts in VA. Several mechanics have told me the power booster is causing the brake problem, but my car doesn’t have one.

 

Place to start repairs:

1.     Check the brake hose farthest from the master cylinder first.

 

Ray Mick

The older I get the faster I was.
Somewhere in Kansas

See my AMC's @
http://members.cox.net/kamick1/Site_2/My_Space.html
www.midamericaamc.com




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