Re: [AMC-list] Towing capacity (was why is it?)

[Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx>]

If you're running an auto trans make sure you have an external cooler. The M-37/M-40 air cooled autos have provisions for an external cooler, the M-35 does not. The case is made for it, but the extra hole to feed oil to the cooler isn't there, nor is the tube to feed the hole. I doubt the valve body has a receptacle for the tube either. I'm not sure if a different valve body was used with the trannys spec'd for an external cooler or not, but may have been. Tom towed a load with his M-35 with no problems, even in the desert, so I wouldn't worry much about that.

The car will take off slower. You can use shorter tires to get a bit of gearing increase (might want to run a 50 or 55 series 14" on it, if you can find them). Play with the tire size/gear ratio calculators at www.4lo.com. What I'd do is figure out what rpm you have now at say 55 mph with the current gear ratio and tire size. Then plug in a shorter tire and see where the rpm goes. To find the equivalent gear with the current tire size plug the new rpm in and leave gear ratio open -- it will calculate the gearing. You can usually get tires to equal the next lower gear (say from a 3.08 to a 3.31). that will help with pulling.

The main thing is to upgrade your brakes. The car should be good for a 1500 lb load at moderate speeds (50-55 mph), but it will take at least TWICE as long to come to a complete stop. The best thing is to add trailer brakes. Discs up front and the next size up wheel cylinder in back will help, but you don't need that capacity all the time. With trailer brakes there is less chance of jack-knifing the car/trailer combo also. Electric trailer brakes will do fine. About $500 for controller, brakes, and wiring. Northern Tools has them in 7, 10, and 12 inch (check bearing sizes -- bearings are sized for axle capacity) drum and some disc kits (hydraulic only). I personally like the hydraulic surge brakes better (uses a special hitch with a master cylinder) but they will take a little more maintenance. Run silicone fluid in them. If you use the trailer 6-10 times a year they usually work out fine, but don't let it sit for 5-6 months! Tow around a few miles every couple months and app
ly the brakes hard a few times. Sort of like not letting a car sit that long often. Initial cost is about the same as electric brakes.


--------------
Date: Sat, 16 Apr 2011 10:07:20 -0400
From: Bruce Griffis<bruce.griffis@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-list] why is it?

Seems like we're talking about heavier combinations here, which is
cool. But if you were to try to tow something in the 1500 pound range
(say an Apache Mesa) or go Scamp 13, (and I think a Shasta Compact Jr
comes in this range) - what combination would you go for?

I tow about 500-600 pounds with my American 330 comfortably, and I
know it is originally rated at 1500 - but no so sure I'd go that
heavy. So - if you were aiming for 1500 pounds range, what things
would you need to do? And could you do that with a '65 American, or
would you need to go the resto-mod route (or just go to the
Classic/Rebel/Matador style).

--
Frank Swygert
Publisher, "American Motors Cars"
Magazine (AMC)
For all AMC enthusiasts
http://www.amc-mag.com
(free download available!)


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