Re: [AMC-list] ancient Gemmer steering gear, ancient starter motor

[Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx>]

Did you ever put stiffer springs in the front? The sway bar won't be very noticeable, but stiffer springs will. I had a Hornet (I think...) sway bar in mine. I just drilled straight down through the "frame" rails and used long carriage bolts to bolt the bar mounts on, made combo shock/sway bar brackets for the lower arms. The brackets were rough, but worked. You've got something a lot better now, and I'd make something much better than I had back then too! But I hardly noticed the sway bar -- only in really violent maneuvering did I even know it was there. The 12% stiffer progressive rate front springs, however, were noticeable in all types of driving! At low speeds they were only slightly stiffer, but the rate increases as the springs compress. The combination means only a slightly stiffer ride at low speeds, but greatly reduces body roll and improves handling at high speeds -- no more "floating"! The stock HD springs are about 10% stiffer than standard springs, but you know
 they are there right away.

The steering drag link is tough! What I ended up doing was using a brake adjusting tool and cranking down on the screw in ends. The cotter pin was nearly on top of the plug. That pulls the tie rods in a bit, but other than making a longer solid spacer that's all you can do. I greased them THEN tightened so there would be plenty grease in the ball socket area. I don't think you can tighten the ends enough to stiffen the steering, at least I never had a problem, but think I tightened then backed off 1/4 turn or so. That type drag link was used all the way back to the 50 Nash Rambler. Kept some of the jolts in rough roads from jarring the steering wheel.

The drag link is pretty straight, it wouldn't be hard to make a solid one, or use a piece of heavy tubing drilled for standard tie rod ends. The tie rods would be easy enough, the pitman and idler arm ends are a different story. The ball sockets bolt to the ends, but I've never seen a tie rod end that bolts on. Not sure if the 64+ models use a close enough pitman arm, but would be worth checking. If the pitman arm is close enough the idler arm should be usable too. I thought about it, but tightening down the ends worked fine. You might want to make slightly longer spacers and eliminate the springs.

------------
Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2011 19:49:25 -0800
From: tom jennings<tomj@xxxxxxx>

so to prepare for rallying the american this summer/fall i'm actually
working on that stuff that will make the car super-tight. Steering gearbox,
that really odd (but aircraft-like) steering linkage, that on a Classic is
simply a forged rod with holes for the rod ends, but on the American, is a
hollow tube filled with half-ball sockets and springs. that's been sitting
on the shelf ready to go for a few months.

Since the american is no longer a commuter box, i'll put super-sticky tires on it,
probably drop .75" off the tire diameter to bring the revs up for a bit more
grunt without losing top end (increased a bit by the balance cam carb and
ignition).

i have most of the parts to fit the front antisway bar, gotta weld up
brackets, that's easy enough and all thought out. swaybar is a rambler part,
classic i think, but not certain, but it's about perfect for the american
when installed backwards.

--
Frank Swygert
Publisher, "American Motors Cars"
Magazine (AMC)
For all AMC enthusiasts
http://www.amc-mag.com
(free download available!)


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