The third gear switch is one of those ball type switches that screws into a hole in the transmission, like the reverse gear switch, and is actuated by the second-third shift rail. It's different from the reverse switch, which has one side is internally tied to ground, while the third gear switch has two terminals. It is a fairly standard switch type, but you probably won't find it by application; the switch manufacturers seem to have forgotten about this usage. Part of the reason for this switch is to prevent engaging the OD while in reverse gear. Doing so will result in catastrophic damage to the unit. Some British applications allowed the OD to be engaged in any forward gear except first.
More important than the third gear lockout is the WOT kickdown switch. This is a normally closed pushbutton that is mounted on a bracket on one of the carburetor mounting bolts. This switch is actuated by the throttle linkage at WOT. It's purpose is to disengage the OD when you call for maximum acceleration.
--Glen At 04:19 PM 2/11/2011, you wrote:
The OD doesn't take a special mount, but the crossmember does need to go back a bit more. Shouldn't be hard to reposition.The cut-out switch is just a heavy duty normally closed momentary switch. The solenoid valve is just a small solenoid, shouldn't draw more than 10A pulling in (maybe as little as 5A) and 2-3A tops to hold. It's not like the big solenoid that activates the old Borg-Warner OD units, the Laycock-DeNormanville unit you have is hydraulic. The solenoid just moves a valve. Even most RS stores still carry momentary switches. A 2A rating at 125V or so should be more than sufficient. 10A at 12V is still only 120 watts, 2A @ 125V is 250 watts. You don't need the third gear switch. Just don't turn OD on unless in third gear. If you want one, it's a normally open momentary switch on a bracket so that the third gear shift arm depresses the switch when in third gear. It's mounted in the transmission, screws in at the front left side. You could mount a momentary switch on the column or outside so the shift lever hits it.The cut-out switch was usually mounted on the throttle linkage so it would be depressed at wide open throttle. Mount it like the Borg-Warner auto kick-down switch -- which would be a good switch to use. I haven't messed with the L-D unit, but have done a lot with the BW units. Wiring is harder on the BWs because the solenoid draws more power.------------------ Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2011 20:02:14 -0800 (PST) From: Joe Fulton<piper_pa20@xxxxxxxxxxx>I asked this same question on the AMC forum so pardon the repeat if you monitorboth sites.? I'd appreciate any information folks can offer though. I? am a few weeks away from installing this but I thought I would ask thequestion.?? I have an NOS 150T three speed tranny with OD.?? My Gremlin (76) had a T-14 in it.? I both?trannies but?I have not measured or compared the locations for the?tranny crossbrace and mount?and I'm wondering if the OD actually takes aspecial mount.? I'll check Rockauto listings tonight, but thought I'd ask the question.?Another issue.? I have an NOS overdrive switch with turn signal stalk.?? What I don't have is the wiring harness for the overdrive.?? I can fabricate a harness from the wiring diagram in the TSM but I'm concerned about the cutout switch onthe throttle linkage.? What did AMC use there??? What is a good generic switch to use? Has anyone done this or does anyone have an 70s AMC with overdrive they can photograph? Joe Fulton -- Frank Swygert Publisher, "American Motors Cars" Magazine (AMC) For all AMC enthusiasts http://www.amc-mag.com (free download available!) _______________________________________________ AMC-list mailing list AMC-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx http://list.amc-list.com/listinfo.cgi/amc-list-amc-list.com
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