On Wed, Jun 30, 2010 at 6:03 AM, <wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: > I'd suspect a problem in the pump, not the modification. Perhaps the blueprint is too tight? While it would pump oil like a muthas. It may have failed to allow enough lube to the ends and gear shafts etc, (At work now, crazy morning.) It's nothing to do with my external cooling mod, at least directly. More on that in a minute. 60 psi at hot idle means that at IDLE! the oil pressure bypass valve is OPEN. That means either (1) things that eventually dump pressure (mains, rods, cam, top end, etc) are clogged/restricted or (2) the pump puts out more volume than the system can handle. I can't rule out clogs; there's no way to tell short of a full disassembly, THAT is not gonna happen! So for diagnostic purposes, I have to set it aside (with one eye on it...). If I get rod knock or something down the road, oh well. I did get the pump exquisitely built. I will have to remove it for all diagnostic paths. First thing is, the cover will come off (easy) and from that alone, I can tell what happened -- if I can turn the gears, sheared woodruff key. If the cover is gouged to crap, mechanical interference. I will do at least that this coming weekend. The cover will come off in 15 minutes, three bolts, there's plenty of room for that. Assuming no metal-to-metal, and a sheared key, it is simply oil back pressure that stressed the gear drive. It did take 1600+ miles to shear it; and it did happen as I was revving 3000 rpm in 2nd getting up to speed for the highway. That strongly implies it was hydraulic load, as opposed to something like a chunk of metal got in it, whatever. I think there is a partial chance I simply over-built the pump. The filter+hose setup flows really well on it's own; you could basically breathe through it. More than a few GPM, and with the new teflon lines, that's not what's loading up the pump. If it *IS* just hydraulic load, I might make a key from something stronger than soft iron, and find a new relief spring and/or shim the plug to lessen pressure, and see if I can hold operating pressure to 50psi. If it is high volume all the time, 50 psi is PLENTY of oil for this ancient engine. And I hope I didn't score bearings. I did turn it off within a second or two, with clutch disengaged. I pulled over, inspected everything for leaks, checked the oil level, then I did start it for one more second as a double-check. It hasn't been turned over since. Operating temperature was spot-on 185F in the center of the cylinder head. I'm not *too* worried about this. My guess is, I have two "problems" neither of which by itself would be a killer: 1) too much oil volume (crazy problem to have, I know :-) 2) oil pressure relief spring problems, causing high pressure I should not have left it to run at 80psi this whole time. Together they could stress the pump. Or, I'll yank it and find some completely other problem! _______________________________________________ AMC-list mailing list AMC-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx http://list.amc-list.com/listinfo.cgi/amc-list-amc-list.com