Re: [AMC-list] moar 195.6...

[Wrambler <wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

On the trans fluid selection.
My only thought is the output seal.
Did that not have some strange not real seal deal?
Maybe I'm thinking of something else?

I ran 20W-50 at John Elle's advice in my non world class T5.
It worked excellent with no excess noise or leaks.
The non world class is old school, gears on shaft, 
no needle bearings between like the world class has.
NWC also has simpler brass blocker rings on the synchros to.
Last time I did the fluid I used about 80% Redline MTL as 
I had it left over from putting it in the AX15, 
which at 90K now shifts smoother than it did at 52K when we bought it!
Anyway, I have about 80% RL MTL and the remander Mobil one 20W-50.

If your trans does not like the 20W-50 I believe you can get 70W Mobile one synth gear lube.
The only real difference I see is better shifting when cold, 
so, in your state you may find it a useless experiment.

Mark Price
Morgantown, WV 26508
1969 AMC Rambler, 4.0L, EFI, T-5
2004 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.7L, Quadratrac II
"I realize that death is inevitable.
I just don't want to be around when it happens!"

----- "tom jennings" <tomj@xxxxxxx> wrote:

> From: "tom jennings" <tomj@xxxxxxx>
> To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Friday, March 26, 2010 2:17:02 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
> Subject: [AMC-list] moar 195.6...
>
> I got the head back yesterday, and it looks great. Finished off the
> center
> exhaust port box-in, seems to work OK, I'll weld it in tomorrow. Cost
> $306:
> 3-angle valves, new guides, guides cut to accept modern chevy stem
> seals
> instead of those old umbrella jobs, and installation of the valves. I
> was
> going to do it, but they wanted to make sure all the seats were
> concentric
> etc and it was in hte end easier.
> 
> Put all the trivia on the engine, all the plugs, oil filter mount,
> etc. The
> last detail is plastigageing the oil pump and any final grinding
> there, then
> pack with vaseline and seal it up.
> 
> Lost the brand new oil pressure relief valve parts (spring, plunger),
> ordered new ones from Galvin's, I'm sure the original will show up
> after I
> get the engine in.
> 
> Last and hardly least, I installed all the head studs, and popped the
> head
> on for a quick check (no gasket). Big relief! Stud selection was done
> by-the-book and measurement, it was nice to have it all work out
> right. I
> backed out one stud at each end for a nice easy target to drop the
> head on,
> that worked out fine.
> 
> With the head, valve cover, trough plate, adapter and Weber on, the
> motor
> sure looks cool and silly on the stand.
> 
> Also popped the top on the trans, cleaned off the two magnets out that
> I'd
> installed on the oil return troughs (minor crud) and changed the oil
> for the
> hell of it. Put 20W-50 synth in it this time, I'll see how it behaves
> with
> such runny juice. Cleaned up and inspected the flywheel, clutch
> parts,
> linkages, etc for reinstall.
> 
> I still find it odd the way the clutch behaves, all in at the top of
> the
> pedal, and one-finger pedal pressure. From what I hear from everyone
> this is
> totally normal, but it's disconcerting. I momentarily contemplated
> moving
> the pushrod or pedal pivot position to change the leverage but I came
> to my
> senses before any needless work was done.
> 
> When I finish off the oil pump, the motor will be ready to go in.
> Maybe
> Saturday! Then I have a lot of wiring to do for all the foolish
> changes I
> indulged in.
> 
> 
> I took the week off (plus I have 'furlough' time to burn off --
> thanks
> California) and I'm making the most of it!
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