if your going to try this. I'd use either a very, very light coat of 3 in 1 oil or no oil on the bores at all. You want the rings to seat into the bores and the less oil on the face, the quicker they will seat. Avoid any HD oil on the rings for break in. Heck, you may want to run either Non detergent or get some of break in specific oil that is now available. Since you are also going to have at least new lifters. You want lots of zinc in the mix during break in. Mark Price Morgantown, WV 26508 1969 AMC Rambler, 4.0L, EFI, T-5 2004 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.7L, Quadratrac II "I realize that death is inevitable. I just don't want to be around when it happens!" ----- das24rules@xxxxxxxxx wrote: > From: das24rules@xxxxxxxxx > To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx > Sent: Tuesday, March 2, 2010 3:03:26 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern > Subject: Re: [AMC-list] question for more > > ya, i tested the plug wire. it has a good hot spark at idle. > (screwdriver > stuck in the end of the wire and close to the valve cover screw.) it > fires > when accelerating. i think i messed up the head gasket while putting > the head > on. low compression, oil in the water, tells me it was my screw up. no > water > is showing in the oil however. i have new pistons i want to put on the > rods > from the aluminum block. i would like to know if i would have a > problem using > my ring installer, to pull the rings off them old pistons, and put > them on my > new ones. there was NO ridge in caspers cast iron block, i think i > could get > the pistons out with no problem of breaking a ring. i would like to > hear more > input, but from what frank said, maybe just try it, and if im lucky > and dont > break a ring, i may be ok? would i have a problem getting the rings to > seat, > or should they seat just fine like the first time being run? > > the machine shop i use, the old gray beard there builds a lot of drag > race > motors, tractor motors and old car motors. he always oils cylinders > and > pistons when installing them, and says to get the motor primed, timed > as > close as possible so it will atleast run, and carb primed and all, so > it > SHOULD fire imediatly, and as soon as it fires, to run at 1500-2000 > rpm for > about 10 min or so. (get up to operating temp and then about 5 min > after its > at temp) then drive it with light load for 20 miles, then 100 miles at > 50-75 > mph fluctuating speed. i never got casper on the road. it has only run > about > 15 min or so at high idle. never run down the road yet. TICKED ME OFF > still > hearing the knock. eh, it will work or it wont i guess. save me > another $110 > or so for rings again. just means that much more to spend somewhere > else on > the motor. > dave stohler > www.picasaweb.google.com/das24rules > _______________________________________________ > AMC-list mailing list > AMC-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx > http://list.amc-list.com/listinfo.cgi/amc-list-amc-list.com _______________________________________________ AMC-list mailing list AMC-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx http://list.amc-list.com/listinfo.cgi/amc-list-amc-list.com