Tom,I assume you mean "moly rings", right? Chrome rings are very old school race only parts that were meant to reduce friction. Due to how hard they are, they end up not sealing well and you end up with a motor that uses a lot of oil.
As far as the rings go, are those some old rings that were sitting on a shelf or something more recent? The reason I ask is that ring technology has improved a lot recently (past 10 or so years) and long break in periods aren't needed any more. With modern ring technology and proper honing, the rings will seat within the first 15-20 minutes of operations. When the 199 was rebuilt in my wagon a couple of years ago, I used dino oil for the cam break in and switched immediately to a full synthetic with no problems at all. It's of course best to follow the recommendations the ring manufacturer provides for break in but it may not be the long process it used to be. That said, it is still wise to take it easy on the motor for the first few hundred miles to give everything else a chance to seat properly.
Matt On 2/5/2010 9:45 PM, tom jennings spouted this sage advice: <snip>
* My "original" block, the rebuilt thing that was in the car, the bores are completely perfect, round, and the hone pattern is fine. A quick hone cleaned it up and I can use the .040 over pistons from the "blue" motor with new rings. Going chrome moly, and I'll just be patient in breakin.
</snip> -- mhaas@xxxxxxx Cincinnati, OH http://www.mattsoldcars.com 1967 Rambler American wagon 1968 Rambler American sedan ================================================================= According to a February 2003 survey of Internet holdouts released by UCLA's Center for Communication Policy, people cite not having a computer as the No. 1 reason they won't go online. _______________________________________________ AMC-list mailing list AMC-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx http://list.amc-list.com/listinfo.cgi/amc-list-amc-list.com