Re: [AMC-list] 195.6 leaky head gasket

[Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx>]

The only practical difference in the 63-65 block and the earlier ones is where the oil to the head comes from. Starting in 63 it comes from the front cam bearing, metered by an offset groove in the front camshaft lobe. All the AMC engineers did was drill a hole in the side of the block into the center of the front camshaft bearing journal then cut a groove in the camshaft journal covering roughly 1/3 the diameter, so that oil was only fed to the head for 1/3 rotation of the cam. Would be easy enough to duplicate on an older block. The older ones have a T in the head with a line coming up from the main oil galley then on to the filter feed from the T (63+ has a separate filter feed line -- same line that went to the T in older models). Of course the 65 block has the provision for the oil return from the pump that older ones don't have due to the filter being mounted on the pump. 

No point in keeping a bunch of worn out parts around, though I do have a few myself. Same with bolts. I keep a few "extras", but that's it. The studs have to be better! 

Some are going to be horrified, but I've been buying those cheap clicker torque wrenches from Harbor Freight or other discount outlets (flea markets, etc.). 1/2 drive, up to 150 ft/lbs, around $25-30. I just toss it and get another every 3-4 years. Costs too little to even think about recalibrating them. As long as they are taken proper care of they are fine. I've had a USAF precision measurements shop check one just for kicks, and it was within +/- 3% (or was it 5%?) that is the standard for checking torque wrenches. Wrench had been used a few times, one full engine build, and was somewhere between one and two years old (18 months?). A few years later I just replaced it. The same shop recalibrated an old but expensive when new Snap-On dial type torque wrench for me and it went out faster than the elcheapo clicker. At $25-30 a pop you could buy one every time you built an engine! I throw mine out after 3-4 engines or 3-4 years, whichever comes first! 

-----------
Date: Sat, 30 Jan 2010 22:31:48 -0800
From: tom jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>

If the 63 block (or whatever is in there now) is actually identical to the
NORS (eBay purchase) block I have in my lab, I will clean that up, because I
have pistons for it and i's bored already. I have three cranks, three heads,
three blocks, a metric crapload of valvetrain parts, 12 or 18 rods... I will
have it checked, honed, the deck resurfaced as that doesn't look great (it
looks typical quick rebuild job).

The new ARP studs will be torqued and stretched properly. I'm going to THROW
OUT all of the old head bolts (three motors worth) but save one of each size
for measuerment and comparison.

After this motor I'm gonna go through what's left and throw out the crap. I
have a LOT of old valves that are too thin to regrind, etc.


I also don't trust my torque wrench. It's old now.

--
Frank Swygert
Publisher, "American Motors Cars" 
Magazine (AMC)
For all AMC enthusiasts
http://farna.home.att.net/AMC.html
(free download available!)


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