-------- Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 15:37:04 -0700 From: tom jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx> I forgot: I still wonder at the reason for needing to retorque this head. This time, I used the torque wrench to see how much force was needed to crack them loose before retorque. It's hard to tell, due to sticktion etc, but most seemed to need 70 - 80 f/lbs to crack loose (CRACK of sticktion sound) but a couple took a bit less than 60, without the CRACK sound. All have proper thick, hard washers, oiled right on assembly, etc. The bolts and washers on iron were the most consistent; the ones along the aluminum trough cover felt ever so slightly "funny" typical of aluminum. Perfectly normal there, just less feelable. So who knows. I don't thnk the "loose" ones were loose, just that the head/washer didn't sticktion to the head. Maybe that's the source of the unknown, unspecified 'must retorque'. The under-head area is small, there small pattern 5/8" heads. I just now realized that I should have prick-punched them to see oif they rotate. I imagine that all head bolts have a twist in them after torquing, and I just have no idea how bolts behave under these conditions. I know Frank is right, that once a year is all they need. But I'm doing them twice, spring and fall, simply because it's a 15 minute job once you have the valve cover off to tweak the valves. I like to keep my engines at 100% top state of tune 100% of the time (fends of problems, and gives me slack when I can't get to fiddle them like during this last quarter of school). -- Frank SwygertPublisher, "American Motors Cars" Magazine (AMC)
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