Bushings:If you're planning on road racing, Prothane is the way to go! If this is mainly a street car and you want a nice quiet and comfortable ride, go back with rubber -- which the auto parts stores can still get. Urethane bushings are harder and last longer, but tend to squeak and will make the ride harsher. I use rubber bushings on the arms but urethane on the sway bar.
Springs:Go back to www.theamcforum.com and send a message to member GarryJav. He makes and sales the spring tool needed for trunnion cars, $45 I think.
I've made simple hooks to hold the spring in the installed position from 1/2" wide 1/8" thick bar steel. I just bend a hook on each end, and make the length about 1/4" less than the distance between the spring seat "ear" holes. Lay under the car, reach up and grab a fender and pull down to slide them in. They work, but there's nothing to keep the spring from popping out, so I don't advise it unless you're experienced and willing to take a bit of risk! You have to disconnect the shock so the suspension drops enough to remove the spring. This compresses the spring much less than the factory tool, and to me it's a lot lessdangerous. The old factory hooks compressed the spring by about 1/2 its total length! Of course they had shields to keep it from popping out, but the spring ALWAYS popped sideways when compressed that much. I got rid of the factory set I had because I thought they were too dangerous -- more so than my simple hooks! Garry made his hooks so they don't compress as much as the factory tool, and I have one of his now. He welded a plate in the center where a J bolt can be installed to help hold the spring should it be dropped and try to pop sideways. I've never had that happen with his tool or my simple hooks, but am always extremely careful with "loaded" springs. I pull it out then set it UNDER the car where it can only fly sideways and low if it does come loose. If the spring acts like it wants to tilt sideways at all while pulling it out, I always stop and readjust. Once the hooks are on I jack the car up a couple inches then go over and take a look -- couple more, look, etc. until done. Takes a little longer, but I've had to let the jack back down and reposition the hooks before.
I use the car to get springs out of the holding tool, or new ones back in. Just set the spring with seats in place under a nice flat spot (I use the area just behind the front wheel well, under the front edge of the door) and let the car down. The front tire will likely need to be off to get enough travel, but it's off on the side I'm working on anyway. Wouldn't work without the engine in, but safer than using a hydraulic press (which I have done before... real "exciting"!!). --------------------- Date: Mon, 27 Apr 2009 11:55:28 -0500 From: Greg DePratt <gdepratt@xxxxxxxxx> My 68 Javelin has Bendix front disc brakes. I split the two halves to change the pads and am wondering....is there supposed to be any sort of gasket between the two halves, or around the internal tube for the brake fluid? I suppose I should go ahead and get a repair kit while I have it apart. I am also in the process of replacing all the worn out parts in the front end. I was reading through this forum link.... http://theamcforum.com/forum/started-the-javelin-front-end-rebuild_topic3972_page1.html Stumbled on a debate about a Prothane kit that has everything in it.... Any advice on what to put back in? Rubber vs.graphite impregnated urethane etc... I really don't care that everything be stock. I would prefer to update anything that is going to last longer. Looks like I am going to need a tool to compress the spring. I have used the "claw" type spring compressor before (don't know the technical name). I am hoping that one of the parts stores has a rental that is comparable to the one in the forum above. I guess you can buy a custom made one, but I didn't find the link where you can get one. -- Frank SwygertPublisher, "American Motors Cars" Magazine (AMC)
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