Re: [Amc-list] enclosed driveline
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Re: [Amc-list] enclosed driveline



>
> " I've got a '65 Marlin that has a bad driveline vibration at speeds
> " above 40 mph. I plan to replace the joints and have unbolted the tube.
> " I'm not positive what the next step is. Does the diff need to swing
> " back to allow removal? If so, how far back? Thanks in advance.
>
> just to eliminate the obvious - you're sure it isn't a rear wheel or
> bearing?


Yeah, the torque tube components seem to last forever, sealed in there!
Mine's got the original middle bearing! 350,000 miles or whatever, long lost
count. The front U-joint I replaced in 1990? For no good reason other than I
had it apart.

THe 6 has ONE u-joint cross up front, the V8 has a CV joint (two crosses) up
front. Slip joint in the rear.

If you HAVE TO take it out:

with the car on the tires
pull shocks, e-brake cable, panhard rod
take out the bolts holding TT to trans
take out the two self-tapping bolts holding the rear brake line bracket to
the chassis
(that gives you another couple inches of play)

jack the car. You can now pry the rear axle assembly back far enough to drop
the front splines off the trans tail. It will pee fluid on the ground (years
of minor rear seal seep, collects in the tube). There will be JUST ENOUGH
room to roll the axle back without damaging the brake line.

You should be able to pry the Ujoint off the front without taking the tube
off. On mine, the rear spline was plenty stuck. I dunno why I didn't change
the middle bearing, but it's not under any real load. It keeps the middle of
the long shaft from jump-roping.

I imagine with the front of the TT down you can check that middle bearing by
seeing if the trans end of the shaft rattles in the tube. If I recall it
bends slightly, but that middle bearing prevents a lotof motion.

Use a nylon cargo strap with ratchet to pull the thing back into place.
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