Re: [Amc-list] Tankin' the 65 Project - Analysis

[Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx]

That's exactly the thought that crossed my mind when you started mentiong the prices!
Let us know exactly how this project goes and some pics of the end result would be great!

I did not know GT renu had expanded to have an outlet out there.

I know many people shudder at tank fill inside the trunk, but I have had mine in there since the car was returned it road use sometime aroun 98-99.  The only thing I wish to do different is to get a filler neck with an O-ring sscrew on cap such as used in marine applications. That is what I would do if it was mine. I't drill the hole in the trunk floor, install the filler neck through the trunk floor with the O-ring cap and forget about moving the neck.

Choice two would be to install the tank to connect to the stock filler in the rear neck and redo the exhaust to clear it.

I'd only weld on the tank if forced to. I know it can be done though, just a personal preference.
As for Brazing, you can use a standard welding tip on your Oxy-ac torch set. No special tip required. Keep an nice overlap with brazing, do not do but joints the Braze is not to be used for but "welds". It only has strength when used to join overlaped metals. You can use Braze ot fill pin holes etc;  In overlapped welds braze is stronger than the sheet metal. In testing the surrounding metal fails first, it will always tear first. usually along side the brazed joint.

 The only reason braze is not preferred in body work is the overlaped joints can not be hammered, shrunk or stretched and the flux does not play well with standard plastic body fillers. Before I had a mig I brazed the extremly damaged and rotted passenger rear quarter on my American. To deter problems I wire brushed ets; to remove all flux. Then I skim coated the brazed joints and seams with Duraglas as it does not react to any left over flux.  I cleand painted and undercoated the backside of all repairs after thorough cleaning too. To this day some 10 years later there is not sign of rustthrough or failure.  Of course the other side is fine too..

Thought I mention this incase you did decide to braze.



--
Mark Price
Morgantown, WV
1969 AMC Rambler, 4.0L, EFI, T-5
2004 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.7L, Quadratrac II
" I realize that death is inevitable.
I just don't want to be around when it happens! "

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Joe Fulton <piper_pa20@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> Well, I have evaluated the options for repairing/replacing the gas tank in the 
> 65 American. The entire rear bottom portion of the tank is rotten. 
> 
> Gas Tank Renu would cost $325 plus shipping both ways.  I estimate the total at 
> about $400.  There is a "local" outlet in Stockton, about a two hour drive for 
> me.  
> 
> Brazing on a big patch would work.  I have an oxy/acet rig but have never 
> brazed.  I have ordered a free CD about the process but will use it for future 
> reference.  I guess a cheap MAPP torch would work too.  There would be 
> difficulties in getting a good fit for the patch though.  This would be done in 
> conjunction with a fuel tank sealer kit.  Brazing rod and flux plus the sealing 
> kit, plus any special tips for the torch etc. are estimated about $120, roughly.
> 
> I was tempted to use 3M body adhesive to adhere a plastic patch onto the bottom, 
> but there would be questions about the compatibility of the plastics and 
> adhesive with gasoline and the joints would be under constant head from any 
> gasoline in the tank.  I can get sheets of HDPE plastic at work and could fit 
> them exactly by heating and laying the plastic over the tank.   It wouldn't be 
> like a patch on top of the tank.  This would be done in conjunction with a gas 
> tank sealer kit though.  Cheap but "iffy". One tube of adhesive would run about 
> $35 with tax plus the cost of the special squeeze gun $20 to $25 (estimate). I 
> haven't priced them.  The plastic would be free.  The sealer kit would cost 
> around $70 with shipping.  
> 
> The option I have chosen is to use a 1965 Mustang tank mounted endwise in the 
> stock American tank location.  The dimensions of the tank almost match the 
> American tank, but the filler port is on the incorrect side of the tank.  I can 
> easily move the filler port but cutting and welding or brazing myself or can 
> have it done at a local shop.  I have already ordered a Mustang fuel sender to 
> replace the corroded American fuel level sender.  I'll order the replacement 
> tank today.  Total cost for the tank should be about $160 including shipping.  
> Welding is estimated at another $20 to $30 if I hire it done.  I'll probably 
> have to modify the fuel tank strap too, but that I hope can be done without 
> costing me anything.
> 
> The tank would need to mounted endwise to keep the muffler in the standard 
> position. It's a tradeoff between moving the filler port on the tank and exhaust 
> work to reposition the muffler.  I'll make the final choice after I get the tank 
> here at home.  The muffler might need to be replaced anyway but the tail pipe 
> looks sound.  
> 
> Joe Fulton
> Salinas, CA
> _______________________________________________
> Amc-list mailing list
> Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> http://splatter.wps.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/amc-list

_______________________________________________
Amc-list mailing list
Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
http://splatter.wps.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/amc-list