I can't remember the mount setup for manual brakes. IIRC it uses two studs in the two holes that align across the hole side to side that the pushrod runs through. Place bolts in the other two holes and tighten them as it holds the steering colomn and brake pedal support braket to the firewall, You don't want that coming lose! To get a rod. Buy a rebuild master is easiest. It should be less than $20 and the rod is usually loose in the box. Line side should not matter, just as long as they fit and you get them bolted to the same front to front, rear to rear configuration. On the pedal arm inside, you will see two holes. Whatever hole it uses now with power brakes, well, it's wrong for manual, move to the other hole. One hole is for power, one for manual. I forget which is which. It is slightly possible it is allready in the manual hole. Sometimes people get it wrong when they work on them. Usually only happens with manual brake cars as the booster does not get swapped out often. Once you have it all working and your happy, sell the power brake stuff. someone will want it! -- Mark Price Morgantown, WV 1969 AMC Rambler, 4.0L, EFI, T-5 2004 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.7L, Quadratrac II " I realize that death is inevitable. I just don't want to be around when it happens! " -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: "oldcars@xxxxxxxxx" <oldcars@xxxxxxxxx> > Hey gang, > > I have finally got around to moving on the 81 Concord, which has a bad > clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder. > > I got the slave cylinder just fine, but the remote reservoir style of > clutch master cylinder is no longer available. Everyone seems only to have > the kind with the reservoir attached. > > It looks like that style, which I have already bought, will work fine > on my car, with one modification. The clutch master cylinder is right under > the brake booster, and that means that if I remove the brake booster and > convert the car to manual brakes, it should all fit. > > I checked and found that the master cylinder is the same part for power > brakes and manual brakes, so I should be OK there. > > I found how to remove the booster (4 studs go through the firewall and > the nuts are inside under the dash behind the brake pedal), so that should > be fine. > > Now, the 2 points I could not find anywhere: > > 1) The push rod which bolts up to the pedal - is that the same for manual > and power brakes, or do I need to hunt one down? > > 2) The mounting point for the master cylnder. The cylinder itself has only > 2 bolts, where the booster has 4 bolts. Are there 2 which I would use for > mounting the cylinder? Do I need to get some kind of mounting plate to > provide the 2 bolts/studs? > > The brake lines on my cylinder mount on the fender side. Does anyone > have a car of a similar vintage with manual brakes, and if so, can you > confirm that your master cylinder has the brake lines connecting on the > fender side? I checked on an 82 Eagle and on an 84 Eagle and those both > have a different booster (thicker but smaller diameter) and the master > cylinder connects to the brake lines on the engine side. > > Thanks! > > Jim > > -------------------------------------------------------------------- > mail2web.com - Microsoft® Exchange solutions from a leading provider - > http://link.mail2web.com/Business/Exchange > > > _______________________________________________ > Amc-list mailing list > Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx > http://splatter.wps.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
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