Re: [Amc-list] Weber 32/36 DGEV Issue
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Re: [Amc-list] Weber 32/36 DGEV Issue



I'm going to consolidate my replies into one email.

Tom Jennings wrote:
> See if you can isolate it -- is it RPM? Try 2nd @35mph. Hmm... I assume
> this is a six, it's probably lugging hard at 35 in 3rd gear (depends on
> axle and tires) so you could have the secondary open and if there's a
> problem there... I can feel the secondary open on mine; if you can,
> press up to that point only, see if it improves.

Not sure I'm following you here.  The car has a T5.  35mph in 2nd revs it up 
pretty high.  I did try that hill in 2nd, but only got it up to about 30mph.  
35mph in 3rd is right in the middle of it's range.  I usually shift into 4th 
at about 40mph.  I don't think the secondary is opening.  I'm only at about 
half throttle.  

Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
>   I'd start by checking plugs, cap, rotor, wires, etc; even if new.
> It sounds like the spark is getting lost under load.
>   I've chased that condition around before.

The plugs only have a couple thousand miles on them.  Champion RFN14LY.  I 
pulled a couple and they look fine.  I found one iffy plug wire.  The cap and 
rotor look worn but not horrible.  I went ahead and ordered new wires, cap, 
and rotor.  I'll put those on tonight.  I tested the coil with an ohm meter 
per my Chilton's manual, and it tested fine.  The wires connecting to the 
coil seemed good and tight.  

d stohler wrote:
> sounds to me like it could be a fuel starvation issue. i had that on casper
> for a short while. how new is the filter? the screen in the glass bowl on
> casper got plugged up with crud and would do the same thing when put under
> a load. using more fuel, not able to provide/recieve that fuel at the carb.
> my carb is a single bbl holley junker tho. just my thought. should still
> check the coil primary wires (the + and - wires going to the coil. maybe
> one is loose or cracked. or maybe the coil is going bad. feel it and see if
> it is real hot. had a coil go bad before too. would work fine, get hot and
> intermittenly spark.

I keep thinking it's a fuel issue too.  It only happens going up hill, but not 
every time.  It's more likely to happen on a steeper hill, and is more likely 
to happen as I get further up the hill.  The fuel filter is new as of last 
Saturday.  The screen in the carb is a good idea.  I didn't think to check 
that.  Maybe I dislodged some crud of some sort that's plugging it up and 
restricting the flow.  

The problem seems to occur more when the vehicle is cold, so I don't think it 
would be from the coil getting hot.   I'm checking the other stuff as 
mentioned above.  

Ken Ames wrote:
> Could be wide open throttle doesn't vapourize well or the fuel pump/flow
> can't keep up with the demand or ,
>
> it could be the ignition. Full throttle puts a big load on the sparkers -
> plug gap too big, coil can't handle it, etc.
> Does it do this on the flat also if you use all the pedal for about the
> same length of time as climbing the hill?

Opening up the throttle all the way does not seem to do anything.  Maybe bogs 
down a bit.  Best acceleration seems to be at about two-thirds throttle.  I 
drove around yesterday for about an hour trying to find a pattern.  It only 
bucks on hills, but not every time.  I never got it to do it on the flat.  To 
me it really acts like it's running out of fuel.  

The plan for tonight is to check the strainer on the carb as Dave suggested.  
That's something I missed yesterday.  That would make sense if it's partially 
plugged.  I'll also get the new wires, cap and rotor installed.   I guess 
we'll see.  

Thanks everyone for your suggestions.  

Todd


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