Re: [Amc-list] wwyd???

[Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx]

Yeah, that's a good thing to remember.
Making smaller pieces and working one section at a time is easier than doing a large complicated area.
Take your time and do the welds right, sand and finish.
I have gotten better at making some bigger pieces, but too large and to complicated can warp or buckle and cause other issues.
   With the conv I have also learned to look at one area or section. It is OK to use tunnel vision!
You want to keep in mind what you need to do next so you don't complicate things, but, if you really look at the scale of the whole project you can get overwhelmed.
   One section at a time.
  
--
Mark Price
Morgantown, WV
1969 AMC Rambler, 4.0L, EFI, T-5
2004 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.7L, Quadratrac II
" I realize that death is inevitable.
I just don't want to be around when it happens! "

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Matt Haas <mhaas@xxxxxxx>
> I basically agree with what Mark said.
> 
> What did the gaps between the doors and fenders look like? If they were 
> even, the front end is still strong enough where you don't need to brace 
> it. If they were not even, you'll need to move the structure around to 
> put things where they belong. A TSM should have the frame dimensions in it.
> 
> Removing the engine and transmission will take most of the weight off of 
> the front of the car. You should also pull the dash, windshield, and the 
> front half of the interior so you have good access and don't start a fire.
> 
> As far as the repair itself goes, I'd fix what you have. Most structural 
> parts are flat and it will be easy to make them. Take a cue from what 
> Mark did to his Amboat and weld in individual pieces instead of trying 
> to make complicated shapes.
> 
> Matt
> 
> On 11/13/2008 11:53 AM, Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx spouted this sage advice:
> > You SHOULD be ok.
> > There looks to be half the rail area left yet.
> > I'd cut about a half inch above the rust in the rail, both sides front and 
> back then remove the section to look inside.
> > That will be the key as to how much you need to replace.
> >   If it is really solid and that is as straight as it looks. I'd clean the 
> remaining sides and have a cap bend up to slide up over rail. Use weld through 
> primer on the inside of the new rail outside of the old and weld the new to the 
> old along the top and through some holes drilled thtrough the sides to allow 
> spot welds.
> > 
> > Then I'd holesaw through the floor and paint and undercoat the inside of those 
> rails as best I could.
> > 
> > The other cancer looks like floor board rot.
> > Cut, clean replace, seal.
> > 
> > Use same gauge metals etc;
> > 
> > Yes you can cut the parts from the 4dr and do butt welds and finish them to 
> make the whole repair invisible.
> > 
> > As for bracing.
> > If you don't have to cut much more than halfway I'd support the car either on 
> 12" concrete blocks with 2X12" lumber capping the top. Hole vertical, facing up 
> so the cores can't collapse sitting on it's tires.
> > Or jackstands under rear suspenion and at the front behind the bumper if they 
> will fit there.
> > You want the structure to be supported close to how it sits on it's wheels. If 
> the car is not twisting and doors open and close it should stay that way! Unless 
> you really hack out a lot of metal! Do one area at a time. Donot cut it all out 
> at once will help things stay as theyr are.
> > 
> >   Bracing can be done if truly needed diagonally across the door openings etc.
> > 
> > --
> > Mark Price
> > Morgantown, WV
> > 1969 AMC Rambler, 4.0L, EFI, T-5
> > 2004 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.7L, Quadratrac II
> > " I realize that death is inevitable.
> > I just don't want to be around when it happens! "
> > 
> >  -------------- Original message ----------------------
> > From: d stohler <das24rules@xxxxxxxxx>
> >> ok, got casper in the garage tonight. got up on jackstands. the plan was to 
> tear 
> >> the front clip apart, clean all the rust up, and get all the wiring up there 
> >> done. well, that project just got HUGE i think.... crawled under, and got a 
> >> little mortified... got bad rust in the "frame" rails. well, the left one for 
> >> sure. saw some rust around it pretty bad on the left side under the floor 
> board 
> >> where it turns to tie into the front clip. scraped a little of the 
> undercoating 
> >> off on the inside of the rail. and i have holes rusted thru it. uploading 
> pics 
> >> at the moment to my picasaweb link below. someone please let me know how you 
> >> would go about fixing this. i cant beleive its not tiwsted or anything yet. 
> im 
> >> not sure how to brace the chassis so it dont flex when i cut that all out to 
> >> replace it. how hard would it be if i got this other 4 door classic (both 
> 62's, 
> >> mines just 2 door, the other is 4 door) cut the frame rail out of the 4 door, 
> to 
> >> splice into casper??? 
> >>
> >> dave stohler
> >> my rambler pics@
> >> http://picasaweb.google.com/das24rules
> >>
> >>
> >>       
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> > 
> 
> -- 
> mhaas@xxxxxxx
> Cincinnati, OH
> http://www.mattsoldcars.com
> 1967 Rambler American wagon
> 1968 Rambler American sedan
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