[Amc-list] Selling the wagon! Ends tonight.
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[Amc-list] Selling the wagon! Ends tonight.
- From: "Harrel \(new address\)" <harrel@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2008 15:06:53 -0500
Too many projects... I'm selling the wagon. It ends tonight.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=280278553119
Harrel
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Sent: Sunday, October 26, 2008 2:00 PM
Subject: Amc-list Digest, Vol 22, Issue 78
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> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. -ot- Hi Hoe Sea_Biscuit ! (Brien Tourville)
> 2. Re: Amc-list Digest, Vol 22, Issue 77 (gorhodes@xxxxxxxxxxxxx)
> 3. Re: Amc-list Digest, Vol 22, Issue 75 (rod knock on 196)
> (Frank Swygert)
> 4. Re: Amc-list Digest, Vol 22, Issue 77 (Joe Fulton)
> 5. Mother's (Joe Fulton)
> 6. Rogue in SoCal (not mine) (Joe Fulton)
> 7. Re: Rogue in SoCal (not mine) (Tom Jennings)
> 8. Re: Amc-list Digest, Vol 22, Issue 75 (rod knock on 196)
> (Tom Jennings)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2008 05:52:30 -0500
> From: Brien Tourville <hh7x@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: [Amc-list] -ot- Hi Hoe Sea_Biscuit !
> To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> Message-ID: <49044BEE.8010408@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> ScienceDaily: Latest Science News
> <http://scientificsolver.blogspot.com/2008/10/sciencedaily-latest-science-news_25.html>
> By United Techno Solutions(United Techno Solutions)
> Posted: 24 Oct 2008 01:00 PM CDT. In a potential breakthrough for the
> performance horse industry (such as racing and polo), scientists are
> aiming to harness *stem cells* to repair tendon, ligament, cartilage and
> bone damage in horses. *...*
> Science - http://scientificsolver.blogspot.com/
> <http://scientificsolver.blogspot.com/>
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2008 12:17:56 +0000
> From: "gorhodes@xxxxxxxxxxxxx" <gorhodes@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: [Amc-list] Amc-list Digest, Vol 22, Issue 77
> To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> Message-ID:
> <102620081217.20967.49045FF400088C1C000051E722230706129B0A02D2089B9A019C04040A0DBF9C0A0B01089D0109@xxxxxxx>
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> One more question please.Should I replace all the rod bearings while its
> down,and where can I find them?Thanks again in advance.
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2008 08:13:27 -0500
> From: Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: [Amc-list] Amc-list Digest, Vol 22, Issue 75 (rod knock
> on 196)
> To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> Message-ID: <49046CF7.5010208@xxxxxxx>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> Joe and Tom are correct, just in case you need another endorsement!
>
> The big problem with the rod is it going through the block. If you want to
> keep that engine then don't drive it. If you know you're going to replace
> it with another, you need to line up the other one. But you may not have a
> rod bearing loose at all. If this is an automatic trans car you more
> likely have a cracked flex plate, which is very common. Have the valves
> been adjusted in the last couple years? These engines have "solid" lifters
> and need to be adjusted every 5-10K miles. A lifter out of adjustment can
> sound like a light rod knock.
>
> Unfortunately, there is no demand for 196 engines. If you replace it,
> you'll have a hard time selling the old core unless someone in the
> immediate area needs one. Usually the guy who needs one is 2-3 states away
> and shipping is cost prohibitive. The head needs to be retorqued every
> other year or every 12-15K miles or it could warp. Heads are more in
> demand than blocks, as good heads have become hard to find and are more
> commonly damaged. You could drive it until it breaks, but as Joe says, the
> pan is pretty easy to get off if it's a 58-63 American or 56-61 big
> Rambler. Everything will bolt out of the way without disturbing the front
> suspension on those. In 62 AMC changed the front suspension, but you can
> put the car on stands and remove or lower the crossmember enough on 62+
> cars to get the pan off. Not as easy, but can be done.
>
> If you do have a rod knock and it's rather light now, drop the pan and at
> least put a standard bearing back in. That won't help for long, but you
> should be able to get 3-5K more miles out of it. Really depends on how bad
> the crank is now. You could pull the timing cover and transmission then
> drop the crank, have it turned by a machine shop, then put it back in
> without pulling the engine. Not much point in doing just one rod bearing
> if the crank is pulled.
>
> ------------
> Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2008 19:24:30 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Joe Fulton <piper_pa20@xxxxxxxxxxx>
>
> If the car is a 62 or earlier Classic family (big Rambler), I think you
> can pull the pan fairly easily and check the rod journals to see where the
> culprit is. There's a chance it's not a rod. It could be an loose pulley
> on the water pump or on an accessory. Anyway if you pull the pan you
> should be able to diagnose it and go from there. I agree with Tom. I
> would not drive it, unless you want to spend more on the repair.
>
> Joe Fulton
>
>
> --- On Sat, 10/25/08, gorhodes@xxxxxxxxxxxxx <gorhodes@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> wrote:
>
>
>> > From: gorhodes@xxxxxxxxxxxxx <gorhodes@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>> > Subject: Re: [Amc-list] Amc-list Digest, Vol 22, Issue 75
>> > To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
>> > Date: Saturday, October 25, 2008, 6:31 PM
>> > Got a quick question.I have a 196 6 cyl. and I have a rod
>> > bearing making noise.My friend said to just drive it.Could
>> > this mess up the crankshaft?Thanks in advance.
> --
> Frank Swygert
> Publisher, "American Motors Cars"
> Magazine (AMC)
> For all AMC enthusiasts
> http://farna.home.att.net/AMC.html
> (free download available!)
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2008 07:50:56 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Joe Fulton <piper_pa20@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: [Amc-list] Amc-list Digest, Vol 22, Issue 77
> To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Message-ID: <631470.55727.qm@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
> You might be able to get rod bearings from one of the AMC vendors like
> American Parts Depot or Kennedy American. I bought my oversize rod
> bearings from Kanter Auto Products. They have complete rebuild kits for
> the 195.6 engines I believe. Google searches should find any of these
> vendors on the net.
>
> Joe Fulton
>
>
>
> --- On Sun, 10/26/08, gorhodes@xxxxxxxxxxxxx <gorhodes@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> wrote:
>
>> From: gorhodes@xxxxxxxxxxxxx <gorhodes@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>> Subject: Re: [Amc-list] Amc-list Digest, Vol 22, Issue 77
>> To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
>> Date: Sunday, October 26, 2008, 5:17 AM
>> One more question please.Should I replace all the rod
>> bearings while its down,and where can I find them?Thanks
>> again in advance.
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>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2008 09:52:50 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Joe Fulton <piper_pa20@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: [Amc-list] Mother's
> To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> Message-ID: <980643.31323.qm@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
> Yesterday, while dancing around the project of installing the engine in
> the 65 Rambler I was polishing the grilles and the headlight doors. I had
> been sanding the grilles lightly starting with 400 grit wet or dry paper
> and then progressing up to 1500 grit to try to remove somoe of the road
> rash from the grilles. It's pretty much a lost cause. They'll need to be
> re-anodized to return them to a factory look but that will never happen on
> this innocuous 4-door sedan.
>
> Anyway, I remembered that I had some Wenol polish in the red tube which
> had produced great results on polished pieces of my 66 Rambler and my 73
> Javelin. So I started using that and it still seemed kinda mild for my
> purposes (stains were slow to remove). I started reading on the net and
> Mother's aluminum and mag polish was recommended. I remembered that I
> had a jar of it, but had not had great results with it in the past. I
> used it and was amazed at the way it removed the haze and stains from the
> aluminum parts. I masked and repainted the black portions last night and
> will lay the parts aside until the engine is installed.
>
> I used gloss black for the trim paint on these parts because semi-gloss
> just seemed too dull. I don't know what the factory used. My parts were
> too worn and faded to be able to tell.
>
> Eric Clapton on the stereo, polish doing it's job. Life was good.
>
> Joe Fulton
> Salinas, CA
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2008 09:59:33 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Joe Fulton <piper_pa20@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: [Amc-list] Rogue in SoCal (not mine)
> To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> Message-ID: <241104.36841.qm@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
> This thing has been for sale for over a week on craigslist. I haven't
> contacted the owner to see if it's still there. In 1969 I believe the
> Rogue only came with either the 232 six or the 290 v8 4-bbl engines. You
> could get the T-10 4 speed behind the 290. What a nice package that would
> make. This one appears to have the 290 but the seller doesn't mention the
> transmission.
>
> Again, if I had room, this car would be in my back yard now.
>
> http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/cto/879780873.html
>
> Joe Fulton
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2008 10:14:36 -0700
> From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: [Amc-list] Rogue in SoCal (not mine)
> To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Message-ID: <4904A57C.7060803@xxxxxxx>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> I just emailed the owner two questions (trans? orig 290 far as you know?).
>
> Oops -- just noticed column shift auto trans indicator on steering
> column. That answers that one.
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2008 10:23:24 -0700
> From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: [Amc-list] Amc-list Digest, Vol 22, Issue 75 (rod knock
> on 196)
> To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Message-ID: <4904A78C.5030804@xxxxxxx>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> Yeah, the sad story is, with an antique motor, of unknown history, with
> Bad Noises from the bottom end, there is no, zero, easy repair. The sort
> of things you could do when it's "only" 20 years old are fairly hopeless
> when it's 40 years old.
>
> If you have substantial experience, or a lot of time and a good home
> shop, you could probably do old-style in-car repairs, but I think in the
> end, the "savings" will get you a year of use, with the threat of
> catastrophic failure merely deferred a bit.
>
> I forget, if you said, what car this is in. If it's anything other than
> a 63 or older American, you can put a 232 right in far cheaper than you
> could rebuild that motor.
>
> If you're a dedicated AMC nut like most of us here, then you might wanna
> go the whole 9 yards and do the job right with the old Nash motor you
> have.
>
> If a rod exits the block that's the end of that block and crank. Very
> hard to find parts for this motor! But if you fix it before it fails,
> it'll be a lot easier. And if you pull it out and swap in a 232 (if
> that's possible for your chassis) you can part out the old motor,
> recover a few bucks, and extend the life of other people's motors.
>
>
> The 199/232/258, now that's a totally different story. Parts are
> plentiful, they're easy to work on, and AMC solved all the problems
> inherent in that old motor which dates to the 1930's. It's a nice old
> motor, but you have to be wedded to it to put up with it!
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
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> End of Amc-list Digest, Vol 22, Issue 78
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