Re: [Amc-list] Muskeeter rings and procedures

[Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx]

Thanks!
I guess from this reading I will keep the parts seperate till I have a time frame for the actual install.
No sense in assemblying and prepping for storage etc;
   I'll do it when i've got the T5 and other items in place for the swap.
I like the idea of doing it right and having rings seat asap!

   To think years ago I watched my dad bitch a guy out cause he did a rebuild and did NOT oil the cylinders and rings!!!  It was an in van rebuild too... Should have kept his mouth shut and it woul dhave been fine!

   I'l be picking up a can of 3 in 1 oil for the shop I guess :]

Just drove the American again today, days are getting short, will be time to put it to bed soon :[


--
Mark Price
Morgantown, WV
1969 AMC Rambler, 4.0L, EFI, T-5
2004 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.7L, Quadratrac II
" I realize that death is inevitable.
I just don't want to be around when it happens! "

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Bruce Hevner" <scramblr@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> Uh, antifriction lube? Would you use this on a the Coated Skirt piston?>>>
> 
> The procedure I described is used on all types pistons.
> 
> So, Basically your saying you don't get assembly lube anywhere near the
> rings and use 3 in 1 oil in the ring grooves and let the rings pretty much
> dry?>>>
> 
> That is correct. Just a couple of drops of 3-1 oil and rotate the rings to
> make sure it is worked into the groves. No problem if you get a little on
> the face of the rings. A few drops on the cylinder walls spread evenly, not
> excessively, and wiped with a rag.. The reason for 3-1 oil is it has
> essentially no anti-wear additives.
> 
>    Call me old and unschooled on this, but I always used plain old engine
> oil and pretty much lubed the crap out of the bores and pistons with it. I
> take it I was doing it wrong?>>>
> 
> I am suggesting a method to help prevent a condition known as "wet
> Cylinder". It was suggested to me by a piston ring company engineer many
> years ago. At the time I was not having any problems and was told it's a
> better way for the rings to get a "bite" into the cylinder wall before they
> are exposed to any anti-wear additives that might be in the break in oil. I
> HAVE seen guys have the "wet cylinder" problem. A freshly rebuilt motor that
> has one or more cylinders pumping oil. Upon disassembly the rings for the
> cylinder in question would exhibit little to no contact on the wearing edge.
> Like they had never even been in the engine. Modern anti-wear additives can
> be SO good as to completely prevent the rings from wearing in to the
> cylinder wall. I would actually have to give the cylinder in question a few
> strokes with the hone to remove them!! Wash the rings with mineral spirits
> and re assemble the engine. Fixed it every time. The most common culprit
> seemed to be STP.
> 
> 
>     I was trained in auto body work at Vale tech, a pre Wyotech school. I
> must admit I never received formal training on engine rebuilds. Just what I
> was told and read, some of it probably apparently incorrect. Funny how back
> in the day you could work your way up in a dealership, get an ASE master
> tech certification, yet never take and actual engine rebuild class!>>>
> 
> I learned my trade in the school of hard knocks. I started as a floor sweep
> in a custom engine shop in 1966. I watched, and asked a lot of questions, I
> learned what processes were successful and which ones failed. Now, 40 years
> later I realize many of the things we did back then were wrong or maybe not
> being done as properly as they are done today. I go to as many trade shows
> as I can and talk with as many folks as I can. I try different procedures on
> my own motors. Read, read, read.
>  I am an ASE Certified Master Engine Machinist,, 3 time re-certified. In my
> opinion the ASE test should be a little harder. I usually end up 85-95%  
> 
> 
>    I never had a rebuild fail on me over the years though! No smokers or
> other failures. So I must not have screwed up too bad...>>
> 
> I am only suggesting a procedure that has worked 100% for me. Hopefully to
> give someone the benefit of my rebuilding experience from hundreds of engine
> rebuilds over 40 years. I am not casting doubt on your rebuilding abilities,
> only trying to help folks without as much experience.
> 
> If the theory works,, use it. If WHAT YOUR DOING WORKS,,, change the theory.
> 
> But HEY,,, that's just ME!
> Bruce Hevner
> --
> 
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