Re: [Amc-list] Amc-list Digest, Vol 20, Issue 20
[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]

Re: [Amc-list] Amc-list Digest, Vol 20, Issue 20



1967 232 six with 122K miles- grade of oil?
contact www.bulltear.com
use the 15w40 HD oil that has the detergents in the oil.  You use one quart 
of the 15w40, and 4 quarts of regular grade 10w30 oil.  Oil these days do 
not have the zinc levels to keep the engine well lubed, etc.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <amc-list-request@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, August 12, 2008 12:50 PM
Subject: Amc-list Digest, Vol 20, Issue 20


> Send Amc-list mailing list submissions to
> amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> http://splatter.wps.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> amc-list-request@xxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
> amc-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Amc-list digest..."
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
>   1. Re: 1967 232 six with 122K miles- grade of oil? (Sandwich Maker)
>   2. Re: Another 70s AMX (Frank Swygert)
>   3. Re: 1967 232 six with 122K miles- grade of oil? (Frank Swygert)
>   4. Re: regrinding 196 cam? (Frank Swygert)
>   5. Re: regrinding 196 cam? (Greg Taylor)
>   6. 60 Rambler Wagon FS - Low Miles (Frank Swygert)
>   7. Re: 1967 232 six with 122K miles- grade of oil? (Tom Jennings)
>   8. Re: Another 70s AMX (Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx)
>   9. Re: Another 70s AMX (Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx)
>  10. Re: 1967 232 six with 122K miles- grade of oil? (Sandwich Maker)
>  11. Re: regrinding 196 cam? (Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx)
>  12. Re: regrinding 196 cam? (Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx)
>  13. Re: ot: cam grind specs? (Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx)
>  14. Re: 1967 232 six with 122K miles- grade of oil? (Bruce Griffis)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 08:16:34 -0400 (EDT)
> From: adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx (Sandwich Maker)
> Subject: Re: [Amc-list] 1967 232 six with 122K miles- grade of oil?
> To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> Message-ID: <200808121216.m7CCGYF21084@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>
> " From: JohnBherna@xxxxxxx
> "
> " I have a 1967 Rebel with 122K miles.  Runs fine, smokes very little at 
> first
> " start but not after that.
> "
> " What grade of oil should I use, 30 weight, 40 weight, 10-30, 20-40?
>
> spec is 10w30.
> ________________________________________________________________________
> Andrew Hay                                  the genius nature
> internet rambler                            is to see what all have seen
> adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx                       and think what none thought
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 08:33:15 -0400
> From: Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: [Amc-list] Another 70s AMX
> To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> Message-ID: <48A1830B.3090002@xxxxxxx>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> If a Hornet/Concord/Spirit based AMX or X/GT with six (or even four) and 
> four speed shows up around my neck of the woods for a grand or under it's 
> liable to end up in my garage. If it were a four cylinder it might end up 
> with a 2.3L turbo Ford in it though... I'm thinking I might need to look 
> for a Spirit body instead of the  63 or 65 American as a repository for 
> that particular piece of hardware. Would need to be a stick car, but no 
> engine or trans necessary, just close to SC and a solid body (but a little 
> rust I could deal with).
>
> -------------
> Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 22:07:44 -0600
> From: James Shadwick <idahoAMX@xxxxxxxxx>
>
> There is another 80 AMX 258/4sp for sale here that has been on Craig's
> list for a while...
> a used car dealer has it.....plus some other AMC's .....
>
>
> http://boise.craigslist.org/search/cta?query=amc&minAsk=min&maxAsk=max
>
> -- 
> Frank Swygert
> Publisher, "American Motors Cars"
> Magazine (AMC)
> For all AMC enthusiasts
> http://farna.home.att.net/AMC.html
> (free download available!)
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 08:38:58 -0400
> From: Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: [Amc-list] 1967 232 six with 122K miles- grade of oil?
> To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> Message-ID: <48A18462.9050102@xxxxxxx>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> John, I wouldn't run anything heavier than 10-40. 10-30 should be fine. 
> You don't want to run a "straight weight" as it's a bit thick at start up. 
> You could run 20-50 (I'm assuming that's what you meant by 20-40 -- no 
> such weight!) because of the mileage, but if you do change the oil to 
> 10-30 or 10-40 for cold weather (below 40 or so) driving. If you park it 
> in a garage through the winter you should be fine leaving 20-50 in all 
> year round.
>
> Smoking at start-up that quits shortly after is a classic sign of bad/worn 
> valve stem seals. In your case it's normal, they harden and fall apart 
> with age. The seals can be changed by a competent shop without removing 
> the heads, or if you've plenty time it's not hard to do yourself. You 
> don't need compressed air, though that's what a shop will use. I use a 
> piece of cord small enough to fit in the spark plug hole. Run the piston 
> down. insert about 3' of cord, then run the piston up to compress the cord 
> against the valves, one cylinder at a time. Safer than air, but takes a 
> bit longer.
>
> -------------
> Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 00:30:24 EDT
> From: JohnBherna@xxxxxxx
>
> I have a 1967 Rebel with 122K miles.  Runs fine, smokes very little at 
> first
> start but not after that.
>
> What grade of oil should I use, 30 weight, 40 weight, 10-30, 20-40?
>
> -- 
> Frank Swygert
> Publisher, "American Motors Cars"
> Magazine (AMC)
> For all AMC enthusiasts
> http://farna.home.att.net/AMC.html
> (free download available!)
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 08:46:33 -0400
> From: Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: [Amc-list] regrinding 196 cam?
> To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> Message-ID: <48A18629.6040500@xxxxxxx>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> Lunati in Tennessee reground a 196 cam for me years ago (before bought by 
> Holley). They added 20 degrees duration and 0.10" lift. Got about 20 hp in 
> mid range, so it had speed holding/hill pulling/passing power. Nothing you 
> can do to make it get up to speed faster, the long stroke/small bore just 
> won't do it! But once you get up to 40-45 with that regrind you think 
> you're in a newer car!! Crane or Comp will regrind the cam, no problem, 
> just call first.
>
> The lifters have to come out if you change the cam. The bottoms need to be 
> surface ground flat so the old lifters can be used with the new cam. 
> Unless the heads of the lifters are worn bad that's common for old solid 
> lifters.
>
> To keep the lifters from falling out remove the side covers and the 
> pushrods. Put rubber bands around pairs of lifters to hold them in. You'll 
> have to take the pan off to get the lifters out, so this isn't a problem 
> when removing the cam (let them fall in pan), just when reinstalling. Cam 
> bearings get very little wear, it's common to change cams without changing 
> bearings, but do look at them. If you have a bar the bearings can be 
> changed without removing the engine, provided you can get to the welch 
> plug in the rear of the block...
>
> -------------------
> Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 22:04:39 -0700 (PDT)
> From: d stohler <das24rules@xxxxxxxxx>
>
> while im messin with cams... i decided to yank the cam out of the 196 i 
> tore out of my 63 american. it really looks GREAT. very very little wear. 
> if any at all actually.
>
> anyway, was wondering if anyone knows if you can send them in to 
> comp/crane for a regrind?? i think they can be shaved down. being they are 
> solid lifters? if it can be reground, what might be a good grind # for it 
> to be a little peppier? ya, i know, that long stroke not going to get 
> alot, but maybe make it for more torque, and a little more hp. cant really 
> hurt. now that i got a 2bbl intake plate to use on one of the 196's i 
> have, could maybe be worth it?
>
> if i was to get it reground and all, is there a way to get that cam 
> changed while IN the car? them lifters come out from the bottom, so how 
> would a guy do it in the car? was easy for this motor, had it on the 
> engine stand, flipped it over, pushed the lifters up, er, down, er to the 
> top of the block... lol. and pulled it out. how would it happen in the 
> car? or CAN it even  happen in the car? thats gay if it cant....
>
> -- 
> Frank Swygert
> Publisher, "American Motors Cars"
> Magazine (AMC)
> For all AMC enthusiasts
> http://farna.home.att.net/AMC.html
> (free download available!)
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 05:57:23 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Greg Taylor <amundaza@xxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: [Amc-list] regrinding 196 cam?
> To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Message-ID: <980917.56641.qm@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Daytona Cams will also regrind no-longer-available musclecar cams ... 
> http://daytonacams.com
>
> Sincerely,
> Greg Taylor :) <><
> Rochester Hills, MI
> 1989 Jeep Grand Wagoneer "TRMN8R2"
>
> And the testimony is this, that God has given us eternal life, and this 
> life is in His Son. He who has the Son has the life; he who does not have 
> the Son of God does not have the life. - 1 John 5:11-12
>
>
> --- On Tue, 8/12/08, Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx> wrote:
>
> From: Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: [Amc-list] regrinding 196 cam?
> To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> Date: Tuesday, August 12, 2008, 8:46 AM
>
> Lunati in Tennessee reground a 196 cam for me years ago (before bought by
> Holley).
>
>
>
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: 
> http://splatter.wps.com/pipermail/amc-list/attachments/20080812/7f567230/attachment.htm
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 11:56:08 -0400
> From: Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx>
> Subject: [Amc-list] 60 Rambler Wagon FS - Low Miles
> To: AMC List <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Cc: DonMcCPA@xxxxxxx
> Message-ID: <48A1B298.9070207@xxxxxxx>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> Don is having problems posting to the list, and asked me to forward this:
>> Since I cannot post to the list at the moment, would you be so kind as
>> to put send this out for me?  I really need to sell this due to job
>> cutbacks and a baby arriving.  Thanks!
>>
>>
>>     Subject: `60 Rambler Classic Wagon For Sale - Low Miles
>>
>> 
>> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250280251391
>> 
>> <http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250280251391>
>>
>>     Thanks,
>>     Don McCready
>>     /Dayton, Ohio/
>>
>> /
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> /
>>
>
>
> -- 
> Frank Swygert
> Publisher, "American Motors Cars"
> Magazine (AMC)
> For all AMC enthusiasts
> http://farna.home.att.net/AMC.html
> (free download available!)
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 09:28:52 -0700
> From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: [Amc-list] 1967 232 six with 122K miles- grade of oil?
> To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Message-ID: <48A1BA44.8070403@xxxxxxx>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> There's also "high mileage" oils, in 10W-30, that are probably a good
> idea. They contain more zinc than other oils, and some contain seal
> softeners (like stool softeners for old cars :-) Costs a bit more than
> the cheapest crap oil, but probably worth it. Oil's not a thing to cheap
> out on.
>
> If you can spare a few hundred $$, and are somewhat handy, you can
> really revive a motor with a valve job, if the rings are any good. If
> compression is OK and reasonably even you can liven it up and get
> another 50K miles or more. On an AMC six it's not a hard job.
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 16:30:41 +0000
> From: Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: [Amc-list] Another 70s AMX
> To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Message-ID:
> <081220081630.9857.48A1BAB100034CE3000026812216525806CDCBCD0A0C079D9F059D0E03@xxxxxxxxxxx>
>
>
> Yeah, me too.
> Though i'd really like a 64-65 4 dr American with minimal rust and a nice 
> crusty patina to keep theives uninterested.
> I want one to do in a driver quality ride.
>  No fancy paint, just a solid dependable driveline.
> Next time I'm up at my dad's place I'm going to see if the Comanch his 
> neighbor has is still floating around.
>  It was somewhere around a 1990 and got rear ended hard. Drove the bed 
> into the cab and totalled it out.
> They drove it a couple of blocks home though.
>   Yeah, you guessed it. It has a 4cyl stick in it and would make a nice 
> complete swap donor. No idea on how many miles are on it, but I know it 
> was kept in good running condition as the guy had enough money on hand to 
> buy a new vehicle before the insurance had even settled on the truck. Dad 
> said they sold it new and he was the original owner.
>
> --
> Mark Price
> Morgantown, WV
> 1969 AMC Rambler, 4.0L, EFI, T-5
> 2004 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.7L, Quadratrc II
> " Chronic Pain Hurts"
>
> -------------- Original message ----------------------
> From: Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx>
>> If a Hornet/Concord/Spirit based AMX or X/GT with six (or even four) and 
>> four
>> speed shows up around my neck of the woods for a grand or under it's 
>> liable to
>> end up in my garage. If it were a four cylinder it might end up with a 
>> 2.3L
>> turbo Ford in it though... I'm thinking I might need to look for a Spirit 
>> body
>> instead of the  63 or 65 American as a repository for that particular 
>> piece of
>> hardware. Would need to be a stick car, but no engine or trans necessary, 
>> just
>> close to SC and a solid body (but a little rust I could deal with).
>>
>> -------------
>> Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 22:07:44 -0600
>> From: James Shadwick <idahoAMX@xxxxxxxxx>
>>
>> There is another 80 AMX 258/4sp for sale here that has been on Craig's
>> list for a while...
>> a used car dealer has it.....plus some other AMC's .....
>>
>>
>> http://boise.craigslist.org/search/cta?query=amc&minAsk=min&maxAsk=max
>>
>> -- 
>> Frank Swygert
>> Publisher, "American Motors Cars"
>> Magazine (AMC)
>> For all AMC enthusiasts
>> http://farna.home.att.net/AMC.html
>> (free download available!)
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Amc-list mailing list
>> Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
>> http://splatter.wps.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 9
> Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 16:42:33 +0000
> From: Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: [Amc-list] Another 70s AMX
> To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Message-ID:
> <081220081642.21735.48A1BD7900041EB8000054E72216525806CDCBCD0A0C079D9F059D0E03@xxxxxxxxxxx>
>
>
> If your going to rebody you need a Spirit or AMX, butif your going to do a 
> front clip like John, Elle did, where is he anyway?, then you can use any 
> small body for a donor clear back to at least 72. Should work to 70, but 
> with the firewall differences Tom noted on his Hornet I'd stay above 71 
> just to be sure.
>
> --
> Mark Price
> Morgantown, WV
> 1969 AMC Rambler, 4.0L, EFI, T-5
> 2004 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.7L, Quadratrc II
> " Chronic Pain Hurts"
>
> -------------- Original message ----------------------
> From: "Garry Nordstrom" <gasnordstrom@xxxxxxxxxxx>
>> With my 79 AMX having bad shock towers, it has been put in storage until 
>> I
>> find a donor, so if one comes up in the midwest let me know.  Also still
>> looking for aq 68-69 Rebel for my 343.
>> Garry
>> ----- Original Message ----- 
>> From: "James Shadwick" <idahoAMX@xxxxxxxxx>
>> To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
>> Sent: Monday, August 11, 2008 11:07 PM
>> Subject: Re: [Amc-list] Another 70s AMX
>>
>>
>> > There is another 80 AMX 258/4sp for sale here that has been on Craig's
>> > list for a while...
>> > a used car dealer has it.....plus some other AMC's .....
>> >
>> >
>> > http://boise.craigslist.org/search/cta?query=amc&minAsk=min&maxAsk=max
>> >
>> > Jim
>> >
>> > Joe Fulton wrote:
>> >> Since the Idaho car Jim posted was sold, here's
>> >> another one in LA.  A 258 this time, but it has the
>> >> bird on the hood.
>> >>
>> >> http://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/cto/785873652.html
>> >>
>> >> Joe Fulton
>> >> Salinas, CA
>> >>
>> >> _______________________________________________
>> >> Amc-list mailing list
>> >> Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
>> >> http://splatter.wps.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
>> >>
>> >>
>> >
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > Amc-list mailing list
>> > Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
>> > http://splatter.wps.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Amc-list mailing list
>> Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
>> http://splatter.wps.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 10
> Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 12:48:29 -0400 (EDT)
> From: adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx (Sandwich Maker)
> Subject: Re: [Amc-list] 1967 232 six with 122K miles- grade of oil?
> To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> Message-ID: <200808121648.m7CGmTt15098@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>
> " From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
> "
> " There's also "high mileage" oils, in 10W-30, that are probably a good
> " idea. They contain more zinc than other oils, and some contain seal
> " softeners (like stool softeners for old cars :-) Costs a bit more than
> " the cheapest crap oil, but probably worth it. Oil's not a thing to cheap
> " out on.
>
> good point!  i forgot about this.
>
> current oils actually have a much-reduced zinc level from the oils of
> even 10 years ago.  the old level had been set by sae experimentally
> based on observed wear, and it's the oil our engines were designed
> for.  it's not as critical after break-in as at break-in, but as tom
> says, don't be penny-wise and pound-foolish.
>
> zinc levels were 'high' up to api 'sm' and 'ci' ratings; they've been
> cut almost in half because zinc supposedly poisons catalysts and only
> flat-tappet pushrod engines [rare now] need it.  maybe this is why
> mopar finally dropped the 4.0, even though the 3.7 has been a problem
> child?
> ________________________________________________________________________
> Andrew Hay                                  the genius nature
> internet rambler                            is to see what all have seen
> adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx                       and think what none thought
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 11
> Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 16:52:09 +0000
> From: Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: [Amc-list] regrinding 196 cam?
> To: das24rules@xxxxxxxxx, "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans."
> <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Message-ID:
> <081220081652.23993.48A1BFB90002B57600005DB92216525806CDCBCD0A0C079D9F059D0E03@xxxxxxxxxxx>
>
>
> The lifter design came with the rest of the engine!
> Somwhere around 1940ish!
> Back then it was quite common to drop an oilpan to clean out the sump 
> every now and again.
> They even spec'd it.
> So the mushroom lifters were no big deal.
> So what if you had to pull the pan!
> You needed to clean the sump when you changed out the cam anyway! Right?
>
> --
> Mark Price
> Morgantown, WV
> 1969 AMC Rambler, 4.0L, EFI, T-5
> 2004 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.7L, Quadratrc II
> " Chronic Pain Hurts"
>
> -------------- Original message ----------------------
> From: d stohler <das24rules@xxxxxxxxx>
>> while im messin with cams... i decided to yank the cam out of the 196 i 
>> tore out
>> of my 63 american. it really looks GREAT. very very little wear. if any 
>> at all
>> actually.
>>
>> anyway, was wondering if anyone knows if you can send them in to 
>> comp/crane for
>> a regrind?? i think they can be shaved down. being they are solid 
>> lifters? if it
>> can be reground, what might be a good grind # for it to be a little 
>> peppier? ya,
>> i know, that long stroke not going to get alot, but maybe make it for 
>> more
>> torque, and a little more hp. cant really hurt. now that i got a 2bbl 
>> intake
>> plate to use on one of the 196's i have, could maybe be worth it?
>>
>> if i was to get it reground and all, is there a way to get that cam 
>> changed
>> while IN the car? them lifters come out from the bottom, so how would a 
>> guy do
>> it in the car? was easy for this motor, had it on the engine stand, 
>> flipped it
>> over, pushed the lifters up, er, down, er to the top of the block... lol. 
>> and
>> pulled it out. how would it happen in the car? or CAN it even  happen in 
>> the
>> car? thats gay if it cant....
>>
>> dave stohler
>> my rambler pics@
>> http://picasaweb.google.com/das24rules
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Amc-list mailing list
>> Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
>> http://splatter.wps.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 12
> Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 16:53:38 +0000
> From: Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: [Amc-list] regrinding 196 cam?
> To: das24rules@xxxxxxxxx, "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans."
> <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Message-ID:
> <081220081653.28155.48A1C0120004BB3300006DFB2216525806CDCBCD0A0C079D9F059D0E03@xxxxxxxxxxx>
>
>
> Oh, yeah, let us know if you get a cam reground or even what you find out 
> if you don't!
> I'm probably going to get one done for the 327 someday before it goes in!
>
> --
> Mark Price
> Morgantown, WV
> 1969 AMC Rambler, 4.0L, EFI, T-5
> 2004 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.7L, Quadratrc II
> " Chronic Pain Hurts"
>
> -------------- Original message ----------------------
> From: d stohler <das24rules@xxxxxxxxx>
>> while im messin with cams... i decided to yank the cam out of the 196 i 
>> tore out
>> of my 63 american. it really looks GREAT. very very little wear. if any 
>> at all
>> actually.
>>
>> anyway, was wondering if anyone knows if you can send them in to 
>> comp/crane for
>> a regrind?? i think they can be shaved down. being they are solid 
>> lifters? if it
>> can be reground, what might be a good grind # for it to be a little 
>> peppier? ya,
>> i know, that long stroke not going to get alot, but maybe make it for 
>> more
>> torque, and a little more hp. cant really hurt. now that i got a 2bbl 
>> intake
>> plate to use on one of the 196's i have, could maybe be worth it?
>>
>> if i was to get it reground and all, is there a way to get that cam 
>> changed
>> while IN the car? them lifters come out from the bottom, so how would a 
>> guy do
>> it in the car? was easy for this motor, had it on the engine stand, 
>> flipped it
>> over, pushed the lifters up, er, down, er to the top of the block... lol. 
>> and
>> pulled it out. how would it happen in the car? or CAN it even  happen in 
>> the
>> car? thats gay if it cant....
>>
>> dave stohler
>> my rambler pics@
>> http://picasaweb.google.com/das24rules
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Amc-list mailing list
>> Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
>> http://splatter.wps.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 13
> Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 17:01:08 +0000
> From: Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: [Amc-list] ot: cam grind specs?
> To: das24rules@xxxxxxxxx, "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans."
> <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Message-ID:
> <081220081701.23109.48A1C1D400096A2D00005A452216525806CDCBCD0A0C079D9F059D0E03@xxxxxxxxxxx>
>
>
> Rhodes or other bleed down lifters!
> If you can stand the rattle and find a set!
> Hope that monster has an Aluminum intake on it.
> A buddy did one years ago by himself and used an engine hoist to pull it 
> and put it back on!!!
> Od course he weighed like 100lbs drippiing wet!
> When I had two good arms I did them by hand. By myself... doubt I'll be 
> doing one anytime soon though!
>
> D#&^ned boat. I fell getting off it onto the dock Sunday. Took the skin 
> off both knees and one elbow.
> Guess which elbow! AAAArrrgggghhh! Still about 2 notches more painfull 
> than it was on Saturday.
> One step forward, two back.
>  At least I had enough preservation skills to not try and catch myself 
> with my bad arm. That would have been bad indeed. The glancing blow to the 
> elbow and side were bad enough.
>   There was no way I could redirect my fall either as I was going down on 
> the right side, one way or t'other.
> --
> Mark Price
> Morgantown, WV
> 1969 AMC Rambler, 4.0L, EFI, T-5
> 2004 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.7L, Quadratrc II
> " Chronic Pain Hurts"
>
> -------------- Original message ----------------------
> From: d stohler <das24rules@xxxxxxxxx>
>> ok, little off topic, but im lost on trying to find these specs. i bought 
>> a 77
>> fraud f250 4x4 a month ago to do all my heavy work. driving it home, 
>> noticed the
>> cam is a hot strip cam. got an rv cam ordered today that should be stout. 
>> i am
>> trying to find out how to get the specs on the cam, as i beleive it must 
>> no
>> longer be made.
>>
>> crane cams
>> fireball 302A
>> 524583
>>
>> anyone know how to find out specs on it?
>>
>> dave stohler
>> my rambler pics@
>> http://picasaweb.google.com/das24rules
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Amc-list mailing list
>> Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
>> http://splatter.wps.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 14
> Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 13:50:28 -0400
> From: "Bruce Griffis" <bruce.griffis@xxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: [Amc-list] 1967 232 six with 122K miles- grade of oil?
> To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Message-ID:
> <a72582d20808121050g2a21ba1dt4d5028d243eabf0f@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
>
> But that valve job might not be cheap. I'm looking at appr. $470 to
> mill the head, do a valve job and install hardened seats. I need to
> pick up 6 intake and 1 exhaust valve as well. Probably be about $650
> or so.
>
> I'm guessing a valve job by itself would be a lot cheaper, and I'm not
> complaining. Just saying it can add up quickly if the head got warped.
>
> Hey, can I go synthetic now? Or since I haven't changed the main seal
> and the oil pan seal, should I still stick to dino oil?
>
> On Tue, Aug 12, 2008 at 12:48 PM, Sandwich Maker <adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> 
> wrote:
>> " From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
>> "
>> " There's also "high mileage" oils, in 10W-30, that are probably a good
>> " idea. They contain more zinc than other oils, and some contain seal
>> " softeners (like stool softeners for old cars :-) Costs a bit more than
>> " the cheapest crap oil, but probably worth it. Oil's not a thing to 
>> cheap
>> " out on.
>>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> Amc-list mailing list
> Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> http://splatter.wps.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
>
>
> End of Amc-list Digest, Vol 20, Issue 20
> **************************************** 

_______________________________________________
Amc-list mailing list
Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
http://splatter.wps.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/amc-list


Home Back to the Home of the AMC Gremlin 


This site contains affiliate links for which we may be compensated