1967 232 six with 122K miles- grade of oil? contact www.bulltear.com use the 15w40 HD oil that has the detergents in the oil. You use one quart of the 15w40, and 4 quarts of regular grade 10w30 oil. Oil these days do not have the zinc levels to keep the engine well lubed, etc. ----- Original Message ----- From: <amc-list-request@xxxxxxxxxxxx> To: <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Tuesday, August 12, 2008 12:50 PM Subject: Amc-list Digest, Vol 20, Issue 20 > Send Amc-list mailing list submissions to > amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://splatter.wps.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/amc-list > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > amc-list-request@xxxxxxxxxxxx > > You can reach the person managing the list at > amc-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxx > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Amc-list digest..." > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Re: 1967 232 six with 122K miles- grade of oil? (Sandwich Maker) > 2. Re: Another 70s AMX (Frank Swygert) > 3. Re: 1967 232 six with 122K miles- grade of oil? (Frank Swygert) > 4. Re: regrinding 196 cam? (Frank Swygert) > 5. Re: regrinding 196 cam? (Greg Taylor) > 6. 60 Rambler Wagon FS - Low Miles (Frank Swygert) > 7. Re: 1967 232 six with 122K miles- grade of oil? (Tom Jennings) > 8. Re: Another 70s AMX (Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx) > 9. Re: Another 70s AMX (Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx) > 10. Re: 1967 232 six with 122K miles- grade of oil? (Sandwich Maker) > 11. Re: regrinding 196 cam? (Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx) > 12. Re: regrinding 196 cam? (Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx) > 13. Re: ot: cam grind specs? (Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx) > 14. Re: 1967 232 six with 122K miles- grade of oil? (Bruce Griffis) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 08:16:34 -0400 (EDT) > From: adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx (Sandwich Maker) > Subject: Re: [Amc-list] 1967 232 six with 122K miles- grade of oil? > To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx > Message-ID: <200808121216.m7CCGYF21084@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> > > " From: JohnBherna@xxxxxxx > " > " I have a 1967 Rebel with 122K miles. Runs fine, smokes very little at > first > " start but not after that. > " > " What grade of oil should I use, 30 weight, 40 weight, 10-30, 20-40? > > spec is 10w30. > ________________________________________________________________________ > Andrew Hay the genius nature > internet rambler is to see what all have seen > adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and think what none thought > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 08:33:15 -0400 > From: Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx> > Subject: Re: [Amc-list] Another 70s AMX > To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx > Message-ID: <48A1830B.3090002@xxxxxxx> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed > > If a Hornet/Concord/Spirit based AMX or X/GT with six (or even four) and > four speed shows up around my neck of the woods for a grand or under it's > liable to end up in my garage. If it were a four cylinder it might end up > with a 2.3L turbo Ford in it though... I'm thinking I might need to look > for a Spirit body instead of the 63 or 65 American as a repository for > that particular piece of hardware. Would need to be a stick car, but no > engine or trans necessary, just close to SC and a solid body (but a little > rust I could deal with). > > ------------- > Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 22:07:44 -0600 > From: James Shadwick <idahoAMX@xxxxxxxxx> > > There is another 80 AMX 258/4sp for sale here that has been on Craig's > list for a while... > a used car dealer has it.....plus some other AMC's ..... > > > http://boise.craigslist.org/search/cta?query=amc&minAsk=min&maxAsk=max > > -- > Frank Swygert > Publisher, "American Motors Cars" > Magazine (AMC) > For all AMC enthusiasts > http://farna.home.att.net/AMC.html > (free download available!) > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 3 > Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 08:38:58 -0400 > From: Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx> > Subject: Re: [Amc-list] 1967 232 six with 122K miles- grade of oil? > To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx > Message-ID: <48A18462.9050102@xxxxxxx> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed > > John, I wouldn't run anything heavier than 10-40. 10-30 should be fine. > You don't want to run a "straight weight" as it's a bit thick at start up. > You could run 20-50 (I'm assuming that's what you meant by 20-40 -- no > such weight!) because of the mileage, but if you do change the oil to > 10-30 or 10-40 for cold weather (below 40 or so) driving. If you park it > in a garage through the winter you should be fine leaving 20-50 in all > year round. > > Smoking at start-up that quits shortly after is a classic sign of bad/worn > valve stem seals. In your case it's normal, they harden and fall apart > with age. The seals can be changed by a competent shop without removing > the heads, or if you've plenty time it's not hard to do yourself. You > don't need compressed air, though that's what a shop will use. I use a > piece of cord small enough to fit in the spark plug hole. Run the piston > down. insert about 3' of cord, then run the piston up to compress the cord > against the valves, one cylinder at a time. Safer than air, but takes a > bit longer. > > ------------- > Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 00:30:24 EDT > From: JohnBherna@xxxxxxx > > I have a 1967 Rebel with 122K miles. Runs fine, smokes very little at > first > start but not after that. > > What grade of oil should I use, 30 weight, 40 weight, 10-30, 20-40? > > -- > Frank Swygert > Publisher, "American Motors Cars" > Magazine (AMC) > For all AMC enthusiasts > http://farna.home.att.net/AMC.html > (free download available!) > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 4 > Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 08:46:33 -0400 > From: Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx> > Subject: Re: [Amc-list] regrinding 196 cam? > To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx > Message-ID: <48A18629.6040500@xxxxxxx> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed > > Lunati in Tennessee reground a 196 cam for me years ago (before bought by > Holley). They added 20 degrees duration and 0.10" lift. Got about 20 hp in > mid range, so it had speed holding/hill pulling/passing power. Nothing you > can do to make it get up to speed faster, the long stroke/small bore just > won't do it! But once you get up to 40-45 with that regrind you think > you're in a newer car!! Crane or Comp will regrind the cam, no problem, > just call first. > > The lifters have to come out if you change the cam. The bottoms need to be > surface ground flat so the old lifters can be used with the new cam. > Unless the heads of the lifters are worn bad that's common for old solid > lifters. > > To keep the lifters from falling out remove the side covers and the > pushrods. Put rubber bands around pairs of lifters to hold them in. You'll > have to take the pan off to get the lifters out, so this isn't a problem > when removing the cam (let them fall in pan), just when reinstalling. Cam > bearings get very little wear, it's common to change cams without changing > bearings, but do look at them. If you have a bar the bearings can be > changed without removing the engine, provided you can get to the welch > plug in the rear of the block... > > ------------------- > Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 22:04:39 -0700 (PDT) > From: d stohler <das24rules@xxxxxxxxx> > > while im messin with cams... i decided to yank the cam out of the 196 i > tore out of my 63 american. it really looks GREAT. very very little wear. > if any at all actually. > > anyway, was wondering if anyone knows if you can send them in to > comp/crane for a regrind?? i think they can be shaved down. being they are > solid lifters? if it can be reground, what might be a good grind # for it > to be a little peppier? ya, i know, that long stroke not going to get > alot, but maybe make it for more torque, and a little more hp. cant really > hurt. now that i got a 2bbl intake plate to use on one of the 196's i > have, could maybe be worth it? > > if i was to get it reground and all, is there a way to get that cam > changed while IN the car? them lifters come out from the bottom, so how > would a guy do it in the car? was easy for this motor, had it on the > engine stand, flipped it over, pushed the lifters up, er, down, er to the > top of the block... lol. and pulled it out. how would it happen in the > car? or CAN it even happen in the car? thats gay if it cant.... > > -- > Frank Swygert > Publisher, "American Motors Cars" > Magazine (AMC) > For all AMC enthusiasts > http://farna.home.att.net/AMC.html > (free download available!) > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 5 > Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 05:57:23 -0700 (PDT) > From: Greg Taylor <amundaza@xxxxxxxxx> > Subject: Re: [Amc-list] regrinding 196 cam? > To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx> > Message-ID: <980917.56641.qm@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Daytona Cams will also regrind no-longer-available musclecar cams ... > http://daytonacams.com > > Sincerely, > Greg Taylor :) <>< > Rochester Hills, MI > 1989 Jeep Grand Wagoneer "TRMN8R2" > > And the testimony is this, that God has given us eternal life, and this > life is in His Son. He who has the Son has the life; he who does not have > the Son of God does not have the life. - 1 John 5:11-12 > > > --- On Tue, 8/12/08, Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx> wrote: > > From: Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx> > Subject: Re: [Amc-list] regrinding 196 cam? > To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx > Date: Tuesday, August 12, 2008, 8:46 AM > > Lunati in Tennessee reground a 196 cam for me years ago (before bought by > Holley). > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > http://splatter.wps.com/pipermail/amc-list/attachments/20080812/7f567230/attachment.htm > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 6 > Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 11:56:08 -0400 > From: Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx> > Subject: [Amc-list] 60 Rambler Wagon FS - Low Miles > To: AMC List <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx> > Cc: DonMcCPA@xxxxxxx > Message-ID: <48A1B298.9070207@xxxxxxx> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed > > Don is having problems posting to the list, and asked me to forward this: >> Since I cannot post to the list at the moment, would you be so kind as >> to put send this out for me? I really need to sell this due to job >> cutbacks and a baby arriving. Thanks! >> >> >> Subject: `60 Rambler Classic Wagon For Sale - Low Miles >> >> >> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250280251391 >> >> <http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250280251391> >> >> Thanks, >> Don McCready >> /Dayton, Ohio/ >> >> / >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------ >> / >> > > > -- > Frank Swygert > Publisher, "American Motors Cars" > Magazine (AMC) > For all AMC enthusiasts > http://farna.home.att.net/AMC.html > (free download available!) > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 7 > Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 09:28:52 -0700 > From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx> > Subject: Re: [Amc-list] 1967 232 six with 122K miles- grade of oil? > To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx> > Message-ID: <48A1BA44.8070403@xxxxxxx> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed > > There's also "high mileage" oils, in 10W-30, that are probably a good > idea. They contain more zinc than other oils, and some contain seal > softeners (like stool softeners for old cars :-) Costs a bit more than > the cheapest crap oil, but probably worth it. Oil's not a thing to cheap > out on. > > If you can spare a few hundred $$, and are somewhat handy, you can > really revive a motor with a valve job, if the rings are any good. If > compression is OK and reasonably even you can liven it up and get > another 50K miles or more. On an AMC six it's not a hard job. > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 8 > Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 16:30:41 +0000 > From: Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx > Subject: Re: [Amc-list] Another 70s AMX > To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx> > Message-ID: > <081220081630.9857.48A1BAB100034CE3000026812216525806CDCBCD0A0C079D9F059D0E03@xxxxxxxxxxx> > > > Yeah, me too. > Though i'd really like a 64-65 4 dr American with minimal rust and a nice > crusty patina to keep theives uninterested. > I want one to do in a driver quality ride. > No fancy paint, just a solid dependable driveline. > Next time I'm up at my dad's place I'm going to see if the Comanch his > neighbor has is still floating around. > It was somewhere around a 1990 and got rear ended hard. Drove the bed > into the cab and totalled it out. > They drove it a couple of blocks home though. > Yeah, you guessed it. It has a 4cyl stick in it and would make a nice > complete swap donor. No idea on how many miles are on it, but I know it > was kept in good running condition as the guy had enough money on hand to > buy a new vehicle before the insurance had even settled on the truck. Dad > said they sold it new and he was the original owner. > > -- > Mark Price > Morgantown, WV > 1969 AMC Rambler, 4.0L, EFI, T-5 > 2004 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.7L, Quadratrc II > " Chronic Pain Hurts" > > -------------- Original message ---------------------- > From: Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx> >> If a Hornet/Concord/Spirit based AMX or X/GT with six (or even four) and >> four >> speed shows up around my neck of the woods for a grand or under it's >> liable to >> end up in my garage. If it were a four cylinder it might end up with a >> 2.3L >> turbo Ford in it though... I'm thinking I might need to look for a Spirit >> body >> instead of the 63 or 65 American as a repository for that particular >> piece of >> hardware. Would need to be a stick car, but no engine or trans necessary, >> just >> close to SC and a solid body (but a little rust I could deal with). >> >> ------------- >> Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 22:07:44 -0600 >> From: James Shadwick <idahoAMX@xxxxxxxxx> >> >> There is another 80 AMX 258/4sp for sale here that has been on Craig's >> list for a while... >> a used car dealer has it.....plus some other AMC's ..... >> >> >> http://boise.craigslist.org/search/cta?query=amc&minAsk=min&maxAsk=max >> >> -- >> Frank Swygert >> Publisher, "American Motors Cars" >> Magazine (AMC) >> For all AMC enthusiasts >> http://farna.home.att.net/AMC.html >> (free download available!) >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Amc-list mailing list >> Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx >> http://splatter.wps.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/amc-list > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 9 > Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 16:42:33 +0000 > From: Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx > Subject: Re: [Amc-list] Another 70s AMX > To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx> > Message-ID: > <081220081642.21735.48A1BD7900041EB8000054E72216525806CDCBCD0A0C079D9F059D0E03@xxxxxxxxxxx> > > > If your going to rebody you need a Spirit or AMX, butif your going to do a > front clip like John, Elle did, where is he anyway?, then you can use any > small body for a donor clear back to at least 72. Should work to 70, but > with the firewall differences Tom noted on his Hornet I'd stay above 71 > just to be sure. > > -- > Mark Price > Morgantown, WV > 1969 AMC Rambler, 4.0L, EFI, T-5 > 2004 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.7L, Quadratrc II > " Chronic Pain Hurts" > > -------------- Original message ---------------------- > From: "Garry Nordstrom" <gasnordstrom@xxxxxxxxxxx> >> With my 79 AMX having bad shock towers, it has been put in storage until >> I >> find a donor, so if one comes up in the midwest let me know. Also still >> looking for aq 68-69 Rebel for my 343. >> Garry >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "James Shadwick" <idahoAMX@xxxxxxxxx> >> To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx> >> Sent: Monday, August 11, 2008 11:07 PM >> Subject: Re: [Amc-list] Another 70s AMX >> >> >> > There is another 80 AMX 258/4sp for sale here that has been on Craig's >> > list for a while... >> > a used car dealer has it.....plus some other AMC's ..... >> > >> > >> > http://boise.craigslist.org/search/cta?query=amc&minAsk=min&maxAsk=max >> > >> > Jim >> > >> > Joe Fulton wrote: >> >> Since the Idaho car Jim posted was sold, here's >> >> another one in LA. A 258 this time, but it has the >> >> bird on the hood. >> >> >> >> http://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/cto/785873652.html >> >> >> >> Joe Fulton >> >> Salinas, CA >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Amc-list mailing list >> >> Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx >> >> http://splatter.wps.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/amc-list >> >> >> >> >> > >> > _______________________________________________ >> > Amc-list mailing list >> > Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx >> > http://splatter.wps.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/amc-list >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Amc-list mailing list >> Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx >> http://splatter.wps.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/amc-list > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 10 > Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 12:48:29 -0400 (EDT) > From: adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx (Sandwich Maker) > Subject: Re: [Amc-list] 1967 232 six with 122K miles- grade of oil? > To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx > Message-ID: <200808121648.m7CGmTt15098@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> > > " From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx> > " > " There's also "high mileage" oils, in 10W-30, that are probably a good > " idea. They contain more zinc than other oils, and some contain seal > " softeners (like stool softeners for old cars :-) Costs a bit more than > " the cheapest crap oil, but probably worth it. Oil's not a thing to cheap > " out on. > > good point! i forgot about this. > > current oils actually have a much-reduced zinc level from the oils of > even 10 years ago. the old level had been set by sae experimentally > based on observed wear, and it's the oil our engines were designed > for. it's not as critical after break-in as at break-in, but as tom > says, don't be penny-wise and pound-foolish. > > zinc levels were 'high' up to api 'sm' and 'ci' ratings; they've been > cut almost in half because zinc supposedly poisons catalysts and only > flat-tappet pushrod engines [rare now] need it. maybe this is why > mopar finally dropped the 4.0, even though the 3.7 has been a problem > child? > ________________________________________________________________________ > Andrew Hay the genius nature > internet rambler is to see what all have seen > adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and think what none thought > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 11 > Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 16:52:09 +0000 > From: Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx > Subject: Re: [Amc-list] regrinding 196 cam? > To: das24rules@xxxxxxxxx, "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." > <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx> > Message-ID: > <081220081652.23993.48A1BFB90002B57600005DB92216525806CDCBCD0A0C079D9F059D0E03@xxxxxxxxxxx> > > > The lifter design came with the rest of the engine! > Somwhere around 1940ish! > Back then it was quite common to drop an oilpan to clean out the sump > every now and again. > They even spec'd it. > So the mushroom lifters were no big deal. > So what if you had to pull the pan! > You needed to clean the sump when you changed out the cam anyway! Right? > > -- > Mark Price > Morgantown, WV > 1969 AMC Rambler, 4.0L, EFI, T-5 > 2004 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.7L, Quadratrc II > " Chronic Pain Hurts" > > -------------- Original message ---------------------- > From: d stohler <das24rules@xxxxxxxxx> >> while im messin with cams... i decided to yank the cam out of the 196 i >> tore out >> of my 63 american. it really looks GREAT. very very little wear. if any >> at all >> actually. >> >> anyway, was wondering if anyone knows if you can send them in to >> comp/crane for >> a regrind?? i think they can be shaved down. being they are solid >> lifters? if it >> can be reground, what might be a good grind # for it to be a little >> peppier? ya, >> i know, that long stroke not going to get alot, but maybe make it for >> more >> torque, and a little more hp. cant really hurt. now that i got a 2bbl >> intake >> plate to use on one of the 196's i have, could maybe be worth it? >> >> if i was to get it reground and all, is there a way to get that cam >> changed >> while IN the car? them lifters come out from the bottom, so how would a >> guy do >> it in the car? was easy for this motor, had it on the engine stand, >> flipped it >> over, pushed the lifters up, er, down, er to the top of the block... lol. >> and >> pulled it out. how would it happen in the car? or CAN it even happen in >> the >> car? thats gay if it cant.... >> >> dave stohler >> my rambler pics@ >> http://picasaweb.google.com/das24rules >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Amc-list mailing list >> Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx >> http://splatter.wps.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/amc-list > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 12 > Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 16:53:38 +0000 > From: Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx > Subject: Re: [Amc-list] regrinding 196 cam? > To: das24rules@xxxxxxxxx, "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." > <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx> > Message-ID: > <081220081653.28155.48A1C0120004BB3300006DFB2216525806CDCBCD0A0C079D9F059D0E03@xxxxxxxxxxx> > > > Oh, yeah, let us know if you get a cam reground or even what you find out > if you don't! > I'm probably going to get one done for the 327 someday before it goes in! > > -- > Mark Price > Morgantown, WV > 1969 AMC Rambler, 4.0L, EFI, T-5 > 2004 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.7L, Quadratrc II > " Chronic Pain Hurts" > > -------------- Original message ---------------------- > From: d stohler <das24rules@xxxxxxxxx> >> while im messin with cams... i decided to yank the cam out of the 196 i >> tore out >> of my 63 american. it really looks GREAT. very very little wear. if any >> at all >> actually. >> >> anyway, was wondering if anyone knows if you can send them in to >> comp/crane for >> a regrind?? i think they can be shaved down. being they are solid >> lifters? if it >> can be reground, what might be a good grind # for it to be a little >> peppier? ya, >> i know, that long stroke not going to get alot, but maybe make it for >> more >> torque, and a little more hp. cant really hurt. now that i got a 2bbl >> intake >> plate to use on one of the 196's i have, could maybe be worth it? >> >> if i was to get it reground and all, is there a way to get that cam >> changed >> while IN the car? them lifters come out from the bottom, so how would a >> guy do >> it in the car? was easy for this motor, had it on the engine stand, >> flipped it >> over, pushed the lifters up, er, down, er to the top of the block... lol. >> and >> pulled it out. how would it happen in the car? or CAN it even happen in >> the >> car? thats gay if it cant.... >> >> dave stohler >> my rambler pics@ >> http://picasaweb.google.com/das24rules >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Amc-list mailing list >> Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx >> http://splatter.wps.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/amc-list > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 13 > Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 17:01:08 +0000 > From: Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx > Subject: Re: [Amc-list] ot: cam grind specs? > To: das24rules@xxxxxxxxx, "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." > <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx> > Message-ID: > <081220081701.23109.48A1C1D400096A2D00005A452216525806CDCBCD0A0C079D9F059D0E03@xxxxxxxxxxx> > > > Rhodes or other bleed down lifters! > If you can stand the rattle and find a set! > Hope that monster has an Aluminum intake on it. > A buddy did one years ago by himself and used an engine hoist to pull it > and put it back on!!! > Od course he weighed like 100lbs drippiing wet! > When I had two good arms I did them by hand. By myself... doubt I'll be > doing one anytime soon though! > > D#&^ned boat. I fell getting off it onto the dock Sunday. Took the skin > off both knees and one elbow. > Guess which elbow! AAAArrrgggghhh! Still about 2 notches more painfull > than it was on Saturday. > One step forward, two back. > At least I had enough preservation skills to not try and catch myself > with my bad arm. That would have been bad indeed. The glancing blow to the > elbow and side were bad enough. > There was no way I could redirect my fall either as I was going down on > the right side, one way or t'other. > -- > Mark Price > Morgantown, WV > 1969 AMC Rambler, 4.0L, EFI, T-5 > 2004 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.7L, Quadratrc II > " Chronic Pain Hurts" > > -------------- Original message ---------------------- > From: d stohler <das24rules@xxxxxxxxx> >> ok, little off topic, but im lost on trying to find these specs. i bought >> a 77 >> fraud f250 4x4 a month ago to do all my heavy work. driving it home, >> noticed the >> cam is a hot strip cam. got an rv cam ordered today that should be stout. >> i am >> trying to find out how to get the specs on the cam, as i beleive it must >> no >> longer be made. >> >> crane cams >> fireball 302A >> 524583 >> >> anyone know how to find out specs on it? >> >> dave stohler >> my rambler pics@ >> http://picasaweb.google.com/das24rules >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Amc-list mailing list >> Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx >> http://splatter.wps.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/amc-list > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 14 > Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 13:50:28 -0400 > From: "Bruce Griffis" <bruce.griffis@xxxxxxxxx> > Subject: Re: [Amc-list] 1967 232 six with 122K miles- grade of oil? > To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx> > Message-ID: > <a72582d20808121050g2a21ba1dt4d5028d243eabf0f@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 > > But that valve job might not be cheap. I'm looking at appr. $470 to > mill the head, do a valve job and install hardened seats. I need to > pick up 6 intake and 1 exhaust valve as well. Probably be about $650 > or so. > > I'm guessing a valve job by itself would be a lot cheaper, and I'm not > complaining. Just saying it can add up quickly if the head got warped. > > Hey, can I go synthetic now? Or since I haven't changed the main seal > and the oil pan seal, should I still stick to dino oil? > > On Tue, Aug 12, 2008 at 12:48 PM, Sandwich Maker <adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> > wrote: >> " From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx> >> " >> " There's also "high mileage" oils, in 10W-30, that are probably a good >> " idea. They contain more zinc than other oils, and some contain seal >> " softeners (like stool softeners for old cars :-) Costs a bit more than >> " the cheapest crap oil, but probably worth it. Oil's not a thing to >> cheap >> " out on. >> > > > ------------------------------ > > _______________________________________________ > Amc-list mailing list > Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx > http://splatter.wps.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/amc-list > > > End of Amc-list Digest, Vol 20, Issue 20 > **************************************** _______________________________________________ Amc-list mailing list Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx http://splatter.wps.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/amc-list