Tom- 1979 AMX (with '82 brakes). See http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/category/hemmings-editors/our-rides/p roject-hmx/ I'm just wrapping up a complete front end rebuild, thus the reason I already had the front end up on jackstands. I'll approach it now as if I were just replacing the strut rod bushings. Will report back if I'm still stuck after messing with it tonight. thanks, dan Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2008 19:28:43 -0700 From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx> Subject: Re: [Amc-list] strut rods (was RE: Shock absorbing goodness!) What year and model car is this? Sorry, I forgot! Since the strut positions the outer (tire) end of the lower arm, if you've raised and lowered the car, then the arm has wiggled around and needs to be pushed into the right position for the two bolts to go into the arm.... this is why I do mine with the tire simply sitting on the ground; the weight on the tire keeps the lower arm in the correct position relative to the chassis. It IS easier to assemble with the strut bracket removed, but if the suspension is in it's normal ride-height position, you can leave it in; tpush the bushing end in first, then lift it up to the lower am and use a drift to help locate the two bolts (7/16" x 2"? grade 8's). I assume you have the later, adjustable struts, eg. a nut on the inside of the bushing and one on the outside. The older cars, the front-most cupped washer is held in a fixed position by a stamped flare in the rod. Later ones are straight and tapped up past the bushing so that the front-most cup washer is stopped by the nut. If you have the non-adjustable type, then it is almost certain that you cannot use ANY store-bought bushing. If it looks like the strut in this photo you are ska-wewed: http://wps.com/AMC/Strut-bushing/index.html If it looks like this you will be OK: http://wps.com/AMC/Strut-bushing-modern/index.html _______________________________________________ Amc-list mailing list Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx http://splatter.wps.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/amc-list