Dave is right on with testing the switch, but an easier way is to put a jumper wire between the two wires that attach to the switch. The brake lights should come on and stay on as long as the jumper is connected (and the switch is on). The pressure switches from Wells and others are junk! If you want to keep a pressure switch search for "Ron Francis Wiring" and order one from there. The discount auto store replacements are only suitable for collector cars that don't get out much. On a daily driver they last 3-4 months. The RF switch is made for them to be used in hot rods and will last. I had replaced one then 3-4 months later got ticketed for running two stop signs. A cop had pulled in a block behind me and didn't see any brakes lights over the next two stop signs. When he almost rear ended me he was ticked off but good! I didn't even know he was back there until then. Got out of it, but had to go to court and had the faulty switch in hand! I checked the brake lights as soon as I got home (was only a couple blocks away after getting stopped). Made a bracket for a momentary switch on the brake pedal and put a plug in the master cylinder switch hole. No more problems! -------------------- Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2008 10:50:18 -0400 From: "Bruce Griffis" <bruce.griffis@xxxxxxxxx> My brake lights weren't working a while back. I replaced the brake light switch and we were back in business. My son was following me the other night and noticed that the brake lights weren't working again. How do I test the brake light switch to see if it's bad? My tail lights work, my turn signals work, my headlights work - but the brake lights don't. -- Frank Swygert Publisher, "American Motors Cars" Magazine (AMC) For all AMC enthusiasts http://farna.home.att.net/AMC.html (free download available!) _______________________________________________ Amc-list mailing list Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx http://splatter.wps.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/amc-list