Re: [Amc-list] rearended

[Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx]

I know the water will likely work, but, I had a friend who got a clutch wet in a water crossing and did not get it dried out good. Let it sit a couple of days and clutch disc rusted to the flywheel.
   No clutch release anymore...
We eneded up pulling the engine out of the Bronco ,[early 70's] to get the clutch off the flywheel.
That was a suckey job. we tried everything including towing that thing and nothing would get the clutch to let go.
When we finally pulled the engine out far enough to replace the clutch we ended up having to getthef lywheel resurfaced a second time as it had pitted within the few days it took to get it apart!.

   That pilot bushing could well have worked loose in the crank.
It was a Ford piece I chose because the inside Diameter was correct for the trans and it's length allowed it to be turned on the OD to fit in the crank with a small shoulder left on the end so it would engage the trans correctly..
   Now that I think about it, I even have the correct cranke adpater and a roller bearing at the house now.
It's just the whole idea of trying to do that kind of work right now.

   What i should do is get the "good" T5 done and get everything gathered for it's install.
If I'm unable to do it when it's all together I can then see if my buddy wo I haven't seen in a couple of years will put it in for me. He's got the knowledge to do it correctly and not screw it up.

  I drove it last night for about 10-14 miles and the shifter in it is SO SWEET it does not bother me at all!  
If anyone has an AMC, Camaro or S10 shifter base on their T5 I HIGHLY recomend the PRO5.0 shifter!!!
   Mine was bought for an 82-93 Camaro, came with a lever milled to sit upright in the Camaro, but I replaced it with the lever from an old Mustang unit. I welded the holes on the lever and redrilled. I'd still like to do more period correct lever, but this one was free and it works and i had it.
    The Pro5.0 has a poly bushing in it at the pivot point and it is like cutting butter with a warm knife!. 2-3 shift can be done with the palm of your hand, just push it forward and it slides over and goes right to 3rd.
    
   Now that I got the axle leak stopped I guess I need to start cleaning up the shop...
I'll likely be diving into that Cobra spec trans to see what it actualy needs. I should have everything but the synchros and possibly a bearing or two, unless there is hidden damage in it from when the wrong input ate the cluster.
   I allready bought an input and a cluster.

--
Mark Price
Morgantown, WV
1969 AMC Rambler, 4.0L, EFI, T-5
2004 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.7L, Quadratrc II
" Chronic Pain Hurts"

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
> On Tue, 6 May 2008, Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
> 
> > Would a bronze oilite pilot bushing squeal if it was worn out or doing 
> something strange?
> 
> If it was loose in the crank hole...
> 
> > Arg, I realy hate the noise, but I'm not realy wanting to yank the trans out 
> to fix it then pull again to replace the trans.
> > Plus if it is the pilot then I got to go deeper.
> >    Just not ready to do the entire deal, really wish it would just shut up for 
> a while...
> 
> These are the things that make you crazy, but both of those
> bearings seem unlikely to cause you Failure with a capital F.
> 
> > I wonder if the the arm may be twisted or bent?
> 
> That you could test; if you got someone in the car to operate
> to squeal, you could grip it with an adjustable wrench and
> apply a bit twisting torque and see if it changed.
> 
> Or -- really -- stick a hose in there (motor off) and soak
> the crap out of it while someone operates the pedal. Get
> it all wet! Then test it for squeal quick, while it's still
> soaked. Water will break friction grips and change resonances
> etc and if it shuts it up, it means it's not likely to be a big
> massy hard part like a bearing internal. A drive down the block
> will dry it out ASAP. There's nothing'll get hurt wet in there.
> 
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