Re: [Amc-list] Dang left-braking car, anywayZ

[Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx]

If it's a weekend car the Urethane kit can be had for the American front for somewhere in the $100 range and while the ride gets a little harsher it will handle better.
The bearings and such are still available too.
None of the 64 up American stuff is as expensive as the Classic or earlier American stuff.
I think Matt Haas has stuff up on rebuilding fronts as do others.
If it's just struts, well those aren't as hard as doing the brakes was!

--
Mark Price
Morgantown, WV
1969 AMC Rambler, 4.0L, EFI, T-5
2004 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.7L, Quadratrc II
" Chronic Pain Hurts"

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
> On Mon, 21 Apr 2008, Bruce Griffis wrote:
> 
> > They're self-adjusting. I popped those little babies in myself, and
> > their boxes were labeled L and R. Hoses are new, too. Shoes are long
> 
> Did you check that the item in the box matched the label? YOu
> can figure it out from First Principles. When you hit the brakes,
> the self-adjuster cable pulls UPWARD. If they're adjusted fine,
> the cable (or rod) doesn't move very much.
> 
> If it moves "enough" (big gap between shoe and drum) then the
> cable pulls on the odd-looking stamped thing that rests on the
> toothed wheel.  If it pulls enough to click past one tooth, when
> you let off the brakes, the odd-looking stamped thing return
> spring pulls it back down -- and rotates the adjuster ONE TOOTH.
> 
> DOWNWARD on the toothed wheel pushes the shoes FARTHER OUT. Down
> on the left (U.S. drivers side) means normal right hand thread.
> 
> DOWN on the right, passenger side, means bass-ackwards left-hand
> thread.
> 
> Sometimes the part is stamped "L" or "R".
> 
> > "wandering", and needs strut rod bushings.
> 
> That could be it.
> 
> It's not THAT hard to do suspension work, mainly very dirty :-)
> Dunno about 64-69 American/AMX upper trunnions, but if you have
> no pre-existing religion about what "normal" means it'll not be
> that bad.  There's actual subtlety in there though, so if you
> gotta force something, likely you ahve it assembled wrong. (A
> good general rul of thumb anywhere :-)
> 
> Parts are no longer cheap though :-(
> 
> We're also lucky to have a real old-time tire shop that does
> excellent work on older cars, and have done suspension stuff
> on our balljoint (70-up) cars without blinking.
> 
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