Re: [Amc-list] Torqueing head - bar torque wrench okay?

["Bruce Griffis" <bruce.griffis@xxxxxxxxx>]

Thanks Nick. The engine is in the car. It's a 196 Cast Iron OHV. I'm
not sure what type of head gasket it has. The previous owner said the
engine had been rebuilt, but I'm starting to have doubts about some of
the work done (no valve cover gaskets, harmonic balancer missing some
washers if I go by the TSM, thermostat in upside down, exhaust
manifold cracked completely through the flange between #1 and #2
cylinders, old hoses, ...).

Anyway - the engine was seized from sitting. It's freed up now, and
runs. Compression was pretty good across the cylinders, and I'll
re-check after running it for a while). Last time the car was
regularly driven was in '96. Last time it was moved under it's own
power was maybe 4 to 5 years ago. Since it runs and drives now, I
figured I'd better torque the head. (well, it's been moved under it's
own power since I started working on it. It does fine around the
neighborhood and off to the gas station)

Not sure how to test the torque wrench for accuracy, unless I had a
friend come over with his own torque wrench, we'd both torque
something and compare.


On Fri, Mar 28, 2008 at 12:43 PM, Nick ALFANO <71amx@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Bruce,
>
>  My assumption is by your post that the engine is in the car and it is either an engine with some miles on it or one that has been sitting for a while and you are thinking of re-torquing the head bolts.  If it is a fresh engine, then the type of head gasket that was used will depend on whether a re-torque procedure is necessary or not.  If you just want to do it to be sure, the procedure you listed is correct.  If it is a running engine that didn't have a head gasket issue or a reason for you to think this is needed, then sometimes it is best to leave well enough alone.
>
>  As for the bar type torque wrench, no problem as long as you are confident it is still within a reasonable variance from spec.  Like any tool for measuring, it needs to be calibrated from time to time. A 1-3 lbs + or - is fine for a head bolt as the range is fairly wide.  Just shoot for the middle.  If it is off by 5 or more lbs, well that can start to be a problem especially since you may or may not know what type of lube if any is coating the head bolts.  Friction across the threads can make a dramatic difference in the amount of force needed to stretch the bolt properly to obtain proper clamping force especially if the torque wrench is off by that much.
>
>  If this is a V8, you will need to take the rockers off as well as you won't be able to get at some of the head bolts with them in the way.  Like anything else, proper care in doing the task right will go a long way.
>
>  Nick,
>
>  Alfano Performance
>  4849-76 st.
>  Kenosha, WI. 53142
>  262-308-1302
>  262-942-8271 after 6pm central and weekends
>
>  Message: 12
>  Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2008 09:58:57 -0400
>  From: "Bruce Griffis" <bruce.griffis@xxxxxxxxx>
>  Subject: [Amc-list] Torqueing head - bar torque wrench okay?
>  To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
>  Message-ID:
>     <a72582d20803270658w6c2ef91eif0c6ca16cb248dae@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>  Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
>  With the water pump and harmonic balancer done, I want to take a
>  little time and torque the head. I have the TSM and the sequence and
>  the specs. I think it shouldn't be that bad - and I figure I should
>  torque it before installing the valve cover gasket anyway.
>
>  So - bring it up to running temp (if I read right)
>  Follow the sequence in the TSM
>   (anyone have it in PDF so I could print it and put a copy on the
>  fender? If not, I'll just copy
>     from the TSM)
>  Torque to specs in the TSM
>  Question is - are bar torque wrenches accurate enough? Mine is a
>  little, ahem, old (a Craftsman from when I messed with a Karmann Ghia
>  about 25 years ago). Are dial torque wrenches more accurate?
>  Also, when torqueing - you back off the bolt a little bit first, then
>  torque it, right?
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