[Amc-list] Stainless Steel Flanges
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[Amc-list] Stainless Steel Flanges
- From: CEATMKA@xxxxxxx
- Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2008 09:21:09 EDT
The guys at Stainless Works in Ohio can make you a dog leg flange in just
about any tube size you are looking for
Their number is 800-878-3635
Cary
In a message dated 3/19/2008 2:32:01 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
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Today's Topics:
1. Re: 401 Oil Mods (Davis Martin)
2. Re: Engine Interchange, 58 Rambler American (Frank Swygert)
3. Watt's Up (Brien Tourville)
4. Re: 401 Oil Mods (Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx)
5. Re: 401 Oil Mods (AMC I-6 oil issues) (Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx)
6. Re: Fuel Injection story on a Jeep (Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx)
7. Re: E-85 Conversion (Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx)
8. Re: E-85 Conversion and bio-diesal (Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx)
9. Re: E-85 Conversion and bio-diesal (Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx)
10. Re: Motor Oil & Filter Confusion (where do I start) (Tom Jennings)
11. IH auto question (Jim Blair)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2008 19:31:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: Davis Martin <martin-davis@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [Amc-list] 401 Oil Mods
To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <50556.2115.qm@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Armand,
I have a sprare set of nice thick stainless flanges if you need them Email
me off list.
I Will definitly post all the engne specs from th eblue print sheet and
then th edyno results.
I hope that our testing helps other AmCers
I think it sucks folks want to keep secrets about what they did to get X out
of their amc engine.
Davis
Armand Eshleman <aje1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Wow!!........I just read the magic words.....
Stainless steel headers
I've been researching this for a while now.......
I've been having a real problem locating stainless steel flanges that will
match the dogleg AMC head.
Davis, ask Bill where he found the flanges please.......
and I'm interested in hearing the results of the dyno runs.......
got my blood rushing now...........gotta get the 401 together..............
Thanks,
Armand
----- Original Message -----
From: "Davis Martin"
To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans."
Sent: Tuesday, March 18, 2008 7:26 PM
Subject: Re: [Amc-list] 401 Oil Mods
> Thursday I am going over to the machine shop to help put the engine on the
dyno. Friday the fun starts. I will post the info. we are going to be
testing Bill's home made stainless headers against the hooker super comps.
His last engine made 551 HP now he has a bit more compression and a bigger
cam.
>
> Davis
>
> Frank Swygert wrote:
> You have been very civil and agreeable, both of you! I just wanted to
make sure the discussion didn't take a turn for the worse, from either you
or Nick or someone else taking offense to either side.
>
> Please post your dyno numbers here, or link to a website where they can be
found. It helps to know how much power certain combos will produce.
>
>
> ----------------------------------------
> Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 07:25:31 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Davis Martin
>
> Frank Swygert wrote: I agree with Tom -- let's just keep it at "agreeing
to disagree" if a concensus can't be reached and let it go. No one has to
"win"!!
>
> I thought we were having a very civil and agreeable conversation. I only
spoke in facts and I didn't see much disagreement.
> unfortunatly, I know nothing about the AMC 6. I have only been into the
v-8's and mostly racing them. I have reciently gotten into serious street
playing
>
> --
> Frank Swygert
> Publisher, "American Motors Cars"
> Magazine (AMC)
> For all AMC enthusiasts
> http://farna.home.att.net/AMC.html
> (free download available!)
>
> _______________________________________________
> Amc-list mailing list
> Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> http://splatter.wps.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
>
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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2008 21:49:06 -0500
From: Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [Amc-list] Engine Interchange, 58 Rambler American
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <47E07F22.9050007@xxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Mark, you're pretty much SOL. All the later sixes are way to long for the
"small" American body (58-63). You will have to rebuild the engine you have or
swap something else in. That probably gets you to thinking a modern four
would be good, but those have a problem -- they are too WIDE for the small
American engine bay due to the intake manifold being far from the engine. Some may
fit, but not without some sheet metal surgery under the hood, and then it
will still be tight. A 60 degree V-6 sounds good, but has the same width problem
-- the accessories are mounted "wide" on all the rear drive configurations.
If you don't mind spending money on "hot rod" style accessory mounts, any 60*
V-6 (2.8L - 3.4L Chevy, 2.9L - 4.0L Ford) can be made to work. You'll need
the transmission too, and will need to have the driveshaft modified. Due to
the accessory brackets and even changing some of them, this can be expensive!
There is, however, a reasonably affordable swap -- a Ford 200 or 250 I-6.
They are small bore/long stroke just like the old 195.6, and are short enough
to fit! They also have the intake cast as part of the head, and are narrow
enough too. Don't confuse the 200/250 with the older 240 (used through 64 or so
in cars and trucks) or 300 (used through the 90s in trucks only). Those are
too long!
I would try to find a 250 from a mid 80s car. I'd only use a 200 if you run
across one at a great deal (many Mustangs and Falcons came with them and are
being converted to V-8s), why when you can get the bigger model for about the
same price? You will need the transmission and have to have the driveshaft
modified, but it won't be costly. In fact, it won't cost any more than
rebuilding a 195.6, even if you have to rebuild the Ford six. There is the engine
mount issue, but that can be solved relatively easy.
I wouldn't normally condone swapping a non-AMC engine in an AMC, but in this
case it's not a bad idea. The 195.6 is dependable, but it's costly to
rebuild and many parts are very hard to find. The Ford parts are still readily
available, at least by overnight delivery from a warehouse. Getting the correct
water pump for a 195.6 is difficult, even when waiting several days for it to
come in! It will cost $1000+ to properly rebuild the 195.6. That includes
boring oversize and getting new pistons, and if you do a lot of the work. It
cost me around $800 when I built one in the early 90s, and I was told I got the
last set of pistons NAPA had on the east coast. Now you have to get them from
Egge Machine, or get lucky and find an NOS set. I have a set, but forget now
if they are L-head or OHV pistons -- I think they are L-head. Saving for a
"rainy day" project... So if restoring, build the original engine -- nothing
more you can do! If it's a driver, well, store the original and make
bolt-on mods where you can.
---------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2008 00:59:37 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Mark Dominesey" <LostWater@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
My 58 American is running good, even with low oil pressure when hot. I
know that I will have to do something about that soon.
Here is my question: What engines can I interchange into my 58 American
and bolt to the bellhousing? Will the later 6's fit, like the 199 and
232? If so, what other mods are necessary?
I have really enjoyed reading the digests each day, I actually look
forward to receiving them.
--
Frank Swygert
Publisher, "American Motors Cars"
Magazine (AMC)
For all AMC enthusiasts
http://farna.home.att.net/AMC.html
(free download available!)
------------------------------
Message: 3
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2008 22:48:51 -0400
From: Brien Tourville <hh7x@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [Amc-list] Watt's Up
To: undisclosed-recipients:;
Message-ID: <47E07F13.5010601@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
From: Nick ALFANO <71amx@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [Amc-list] E-85 Conversion
Heck forget E-85. I saw a guy the other night on Pass Time (or what ever it
is called) with an electric powered S10 do a great burn out and turn a
something like 12 sec 1/4 mile time. Sounded weird but not bad for an electric
motor not much larger than than a 5 gal pail. Would be cool to see a electric
car turn a 10 sec or faster time at the track. Nice part about electricity
is the power is instant. What the heck am I saying, I could never give up the
good old V8 rumble and sound.
Nick
Alfano Performance
4849-76 st.
Kenosha, WI. 53142
262-308-1302
262-942-8271 after 6pm central and weekends
..
Wait until the Chevy 'VOLT's start hitting the salvage yards -
thing AMC will start getting VERY weird.
--
=Bt=
milnersXcoupe
"The Heretic"
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------------------------------
Message: 4
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2008 03:16:14 +0000
From: Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [Amc-list] 401 Oil Mods
To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID:
<031920080316.24551.47E0857E0005F10900005FE72216525856CDCBCD0A0C079D9F059D0E03
@comcast.net>
Ironic.
Borla states they don't see flanges rust out so they just use steel on the
flanges.
Not saying I agree, just an interesting thing to note.
--
Mark Price
Morgantown, WV
1969 AMC Rambler, 4.0L, EFI, T-5
2004 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.7L, Quadratrc II
" Chronic Pain Hurts"
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Armand Eshleman" <aje1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Wow!!........I just read the magic words.....
>
> Stainless steel headers
>
> I've been researching this for a while now.......
>
> I've been having a real problem locating stainless steel flanges that will
> match the dogleg AMC head.
>
> Davis, ask Bill where he found the flanges please.......
>
> and I'm interested in hearing the results of the dyno runs.......
>
> got my blood rushing now...........gotta get the 401 together..............
>
> Thanks,
>
> Armand
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Davis Martin" <martin-davis@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Tuesday, March 18, 2008 7:26 PM
> Subject: Re: [Amc-list] 401 Oil Mods
>
>
> > Thursday I am going over to the machine shop to help put the engine on
the
> dyno. Friday the fun starts. I will post the info. we are going to be
> testing Bill's home made stainless headers against the hooker super comps.
> His last engine made 551 HP now he has a bit more compression and a bigger
> cam.
> >
> > Davis
> >
> > Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx> wrote:
> > You have been very civil and agreeable, both of you! I just wanted to
> make sure the discussion didn't take a turn for the worse, from either you
> or Nick or someone else taking offense to either side.
> >
> > Please post your dyno numbers here, or link to a website where they can
be
> found. It helps to know how much power certain combos will produce.
> >
> >
> > ----------------------------------------
> > Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 07:25:31 -0700 (PDT)
> > From: Davis Martin
> >
> > Frank Swygert wrote: I agree with Tom -- let's just keep it at "agreeing
> to disagree" if a concensus can't be reached and let it go. No one has to
> "win"!!
> >
> > I thought we were having a very civil and agreeable conversation. I only
> spoke in facts and I didn't see much disagreement.
> > unfortunatly, I know nothing about the AMC 6. I have only been into the
> v-8's and mostly racing them. I have reciently gotten into serious street
> playing
> >
> > --
> > Frank Swygert
> > Publisher, "American Motors Cars"
> > Magazine (AMC)
> > For all AMC enthusiasts
> > http://farna.home.att.net/AMC.html
> > (free download available!)
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Amc-list mailing list
> > Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> > http://splatter.wps.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
> >
> > -------------- next part --------------
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> ent.htm
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> > Amc-list mailing list
> > Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> > http://splatter.wps.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > Checked by AVG.
> > Version: 7.5.519 / Virus Database: 269.21.7/1333 - Release Date: 3/18/08
> 8:10 AM
> >
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> Amc-list mailing list
> Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> http://splatter.wps.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
------------------------------
Message: 5
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2008 03:31:33 +0000
From: Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [Amc-list] 401 Oil Mods (AMC I-6 oil issues)
To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID:
<031920080331.29190.47E08915000B1E0E000072062216525856CDCBCD0A0C079D9F059D0E03
@comcast.net>
Just for the record.
I still don't agree on the need to run a six over full on oil.
My 4.0L has the unneeded Hi volumn pump in it, [it was a freebie from a
buddy]
My shortblock has about 8K on it and it is a factory shortblock, no
blueprinting, just he wya it came out of the Jeep in 95. For a cam I have a NOS 87
4.0L cam, nuther freebie. Stock replacement lifters.
Head is the 91-95 era head, has been mildly cleaned up around the valve
guides and ports cleaned and the valves lapped. I also polished the oil returns
in the head. that is it.
I run a 73 Hornet pan and pickup. I do not run it overfull.
Can shows about 70psi cold oil pressure and about 40psi hot +-. I have run
it on several different grades of oil, blends and synthetic and even diesel
grades.
I've run it off the 5200 rpm HO computers rev limiter once or twice, well
maybe a few time more then that.
I have never seen the Autometer Comp series oil pressure gauge even so much
as flutter...
I tried running a few different engines overfull to protect them when I was
a kid.
Dragstrip numbers fell on everyone I tried it on.
Making the oil level closer to the crank creates drag, foam, etc; plus there
is never any good done from whipping the oil and mixing air into it.
Now, your saying a half a quart.
That probably won't hurt anything at all.
But I disagree it is needed or that "Oil capacity IS a problem with the six".
--
Mark Price
Morgantown, WV
1969 AMC Rambler, 4.0L, EFI, T-5
2004 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.7L, Quadratrc II
" Chronic Pain Hurts"
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx>
> Oh there are some Jeep mud racers and even some road racers that have
revved
> them up to 6500 rpm or so! 6000 is about the point where a harmonic
vibration
> sets in, but if you go PAST that point it's fine -- just don't run AT it.
>From
> what I've been told there is about a 100 rpm window. 50 rpm before the
vibration
> starts and 50 beyond it's fine to run in. The exact point varies slightly
with
> the specifics of a particular engine. Most of the Jeepers/road racers run
258s,
> and their "bad spot" is supposedly right around 6000 rpm. My 4.6L runs
> completely out of steam by 5500 (gets that far and all but dies, mainly
due to
> my cam, but the Renix computer might have a rev limiter at 5500). I hardly
ever
> run past 3000 rpm though, no need to!
>
> 199 used flat top pistons. Your 232 has got to have 9.5:1 compression or
better
> with the flat-tops. Maybe closer to 10:1, I'm not sure. That might be a
problem
> when you convert back to gasoline. May have to run premium at that
compression,
> might get by with mid grade though. That's the only problem I can see.
>
> Oil capacity IS a problem with the six. I always run mine 1/2 quart above
the
> full mark on the stick to avoid that issue. I don't think the crank will
touch
> the oil with the extra 1/2 quart, and even if it does when the car is at
rest it
> won't matter -- that 1/2 quart will be circulating through the engine in
just a
> second or so, way before any oil is churned up. Jeeps don't have this
problem
> with the deeper sump. Never had it with my Cherokee, Commanche, or J-10.
Those I
> just run at the mark, the cars I run 1/2 quart over. I doubt a full quart
over
> would hurt a thing. The police oil pan for the V-8s is outwardly identical
to
> the standard V-8 pan (police has a different baffle inside), but they were
> spec'd to hold an additional quart of oil. I was told the only reason the
V-8
> specs said five quarts was for economics -- owners wouldn't like changing
six
> quarts of oil every time when the other brands only needed five. Besides,
five
> quarts is more than adequate for 95% of driver
> s. The others learn to add another quart.
>
> ----------------
> Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 08:52:51 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
>
>
> On Mon, 17 Mar 2008, Frank Swygert wrote:
> > As for the sixes, well, they've never had oiling issues that
> > I know of! The only exception is the early 199/232/258 with
> > rocker shafts. Those need a mod to one of the rocker shaft
> > bolts to allow more oil to the shaft.
>
>
> Also, no one revs much past 6000, even Navarro didn't get much
> faster than that. I doubt most people rev a 199/232/258/4.0
> past 5000.
>
> Hopefully next month (soon as the trans is back in the American)
> the Classic's 232 gets torn down. Since it was 100% propane
> and synth oil for 20 years, the wear patterns in there will be
> pretty much 100% mechanical wear patterns. I did change the
> cam and lifters back in 92 or 93 otherwise it's been sealed
> the whole time. I built it myself very carefully using a great
> machine shop in San Francisco.
>
> It's the old-style rocker shaft WITHOUT the mods.
>
> Besides that issue, are there other issues with this motor? I
> know it doesn't rev high, but how much oil stays in the air? This
> motor's tended to run the oil pickup dry on hard turns (idiot
> light comes on) obviously hasn't killed it... I assumed I put
> the pickup in slightly off, but is there a sump issue?
>
> GIven a stock 70 head etc, are there combustion chamber issues
> to watch for? I don't think I've been able to run as much ign
> advance as I should without pinging, so I may have squish area
> AFU (it's got 199 or is it 290 flat-top pistons in it).
>
> --
> Frank Swygert
> Publisher, "American Motors Cars"
> Magazine (AMC)
> For all AMC enthusiasts
> http://farna.home.att.net/AMC.html
> (free download available!)
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Amc-list mailing list
> Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> http://splatter.wps.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
------------------------------
Message: 6
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2008 03:42:25 +0000
From: Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [Amc-list] Fuel Injection story on a Jeep
To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID:
<031920080342.21444.47E08BA10004E8C6000053C42216525856CDCBCD0A0C079D9F059D0E03
@comcast.net>
Used to be a few companies out there other than Howell that would work a
harness or ecu prom and you could buy your own stuff.
IIRC, Howell themselves used to sell bits and pieces, so anyone with a pull a
part and some time can scrounge most of it themselves.
I only referenced Howell as they are easy to locate and read up on.
--
Mark Price
Morgantown, WV
1969 AMC Rambler, 4.0L, EFI, T-5
2004 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.7L, Quadratrc II
" Chronic Pain Hurts"
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
> On Tue, 18 Mar 2008, Joe Smith wrote:
>
> > Very well documented and great reading in general!!
> > http://www.certifiablejeep.com/howell_fuelinjection1.php
>
> Oh why'd you post that, I just wasted an hour poking around on
> www instead of working :-)
>
> Yeah, the Howell system does seem best over all. A kilobuck,
> that's what's stopping me.
>
> I suppose if I think of it as a carburetor with accessories
> you can break it down like so:
>
> * Carter YF, lifetime warranty from Nationalcarburetor.com: $150
>
> * New Weber 32/36DGEV: $400
>
> * Howell: $1100
>
>
> I'd looked at it before (via www). I cynically look for stories
> of problems, not so much fault-finding as limitations, only
> works with X, etc, but pretty much, no one seems dissatisfied
> with it after a few months to four years. Problems all seem
> easily fixed (poor 12V power supply pickoff point).
>
>
> I spoze a call to them re: the 195.6OHV would be in order. Since
> it requires a PROM they might not recommend it. My 232 Classic
> seems like a good candidate though. Maybe if I don't exhaust
> my motor-build budget next month...
> _______________________________________________
> Amc-list mailing list
> Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> http://splatter.wps.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
------------------------------
Message: 7
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2008 03:49:30 +0000
From: Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [Amc-list] E-85 Conversion
To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID:
<031920080349.5420.47E08D4A000A18680000152C2216525856CDCBCD0A0C079D9F059D0E03@
comcast.net>
I saw one built on a mail Jeep platform and raced, don't know if it was the
same show.
It was pretty cool, except the guy didn't have handle on getting the axle
shafts right and stripped ne out, so they welded it and ran it with a welded
shaft, can't remember times or if it held.
It's an interesting concept as the electric motor and all can be munted
directly over the rear drive wheels, Pile in the batteries etc; getting as much
of the weight on the drive axle as possible.
Like you said lots of torque and instant.
They just took the biggest motor they could afford and put it in the
lightest cheap vehicle they could get, one of the newer aluminum bodied mail Jeeps...
Kind of goofy show, as the guy cut corners and it got a realy cheesy cheap
paint job.
--
Mark Price
Morgantown, WV
1969 AMC Rambler, 4.0L, EFI, T-5
2004 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.7L, Quadratrc II
" Chronic Pain Hurts"
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Nick ALFANO <71amx@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Heck forget E-85. I saw a guy the other night on Pass Time (or what ever
it is
> called) with an electric powered S10 do a great burn out and turn a
something
> like 12 sec 1/4 mile time. Sounded weird but not bad for an electric
motor not
> much larger than than a 5 gal pail. Would be cool to see a electric car
turn a
> 10 sec or faster time at the track. Nice part about electricity is the
power is
> instant. What the heck am I saying, I could never give up the good old V8
> rumble and sound.
>
> Nick
>
> Alfano Performance
> 4849-76 st.
> Kenosha, WI. 53142
> 262-308-1302
> 262-942-8271 after 6pm central and weekends
> _______________________________________________
> Amc-list mailing list
> Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> http://splatter.wps.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
------------------------------
Message: 8
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2008 03:53:54 +0000
From: Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [Amc-list] E-85 Conversion and bio-diesal
To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID:
<031920080353.13984.47E08E52000B29AB000036A02216525856CDCBCD0A0C079D9F059D0E03
@comcast.net>
Anyone who remembers way back when will remember what heater and rad hoses
did on an engine when either the oil entered the coolant or the trans cooler
pumped fluid into it.
Those old hoses made of rubber swelled up like balloons it was oftened the
first thing to tip off a problem.
Big old swollen hoses bulging, near the end of the cycle the oil would
actualy start seeping thru the hoses.
Made a nasty mess of things.
--
Mark Price
Morgantown, WV
1969 AMC Rambler, 4.0L, EFI, T-5
2004 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.7L, Quadratrc II
" Chronic Pain Hurts"
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx (Sandwich Maker)
> iirc rubber parts - hoses and seals - have to be compatible with
> either svo or biodiesel. synthetics used for a long time now are, but
> your '59 would indeed probably need some r&r.
> ________________________________________________________________________
> Andrew Hay the genius nature
> internet rambler is to see what all have seen
> adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and think what none thought
> _______________________________________________
> Amc-list mailing list
> Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> http://splatter.wps.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
------------------------------
Message: 9
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2008 04:01:11 +0000
From: Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [Amc-list] E-85 Conversion and bio-diesal
To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID:
<031920080401.27628.47E0900700072A1400006BEC2216525856CDCBCD0A0C079D9F059D0E03
@comcast.net>
Extreme 4X4 did a diesel Samuri coversion.
They installed a Vw turbo diesel and veggie oil conversion.
It was well done and the episode is available on their website IIRC.
I gathered a couple of interesting tidbits on how the heating units work.
My neighbor has a parked blown up tracker I've thought would be cool to do
this to.
They claim mileage in the mid to high 30's with the VW turbodiesels in the
Suzuki/ Geo body.
--
Mark Price
Morgantown, WV
1969 AMC Rambler, 4.0L, EFI, T-5
2004 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.7L, Quadratrc II
" Chronic Pain Hurts"
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: russ hathaway <russh97309@xxxxxxxxx>
> Converting your diesal to dio-diesal isn't as easy as
> just dumping the stuff into yer tank.
> I have not done this personally but I have followed
> the "trend" rather closely, as there will probably
> come a time when I will do so and I don't want to be
> caught with my britchs down.
> As I understand it, the biggest obstacle in using
> French Fry Grease, for lack of a better term, is to
> warm it first. Some people run regular diesal from a
> small seperate tank to get going then switch to FFG
> after it warms for the rest of the trip. You have to
> slightly modify your fuel delivery size and do some
> timing issues. But that is it as far as I know. If
> someone knows first hand, please post as I follow all
> the bio-fuel for future referance, plus I am trying to
> convince my boss to retro fit his trucks. Bio-fuel is
> big around here, but is actually more expensive than
> regular diesal.
> So since FFG isn't as easy as just dumping in the
> fuel, neither is E85, though everything is worth
> taking seriously as the writing is on the wall towards
> alternate fuels......Russ
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
> ____
> Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page.
> http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
> _______________________________________________
> Amc-list mailing list
> Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> http://splatter.wps.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
------------------------------
Message: 10
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2008 22:24:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [Amc-list] Motor Oil & Filter Confusion (where do I
start)
To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <alpine.DEB.0.99.0803182218390.9028@xxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=us-ascii
You point out one additional thing that's glaring obvious --
buying oil based on price or what's at a convenient store is
the wrong way to buy the most critical replaceable part in
the engine.
If you do two oil changes a year you save what, $20? $40? by
buying cheap oil and cheap filters. On your vintage baby fun
V8? Not me!
On Tue, 18 Mar 2008, Frank Swygert wrote:
> At the Kenosha show last summer the Mopar engine plant (former AMC engine
plant) had a tent set up with a couple of the V-6 engines displayed. One was
a cut-away. The Mopar technician was having a discussion with a local
mechanic after the mech stated to another by-stander that he'd replaced more of
those engines than any others. The tech said he understood -- but it was mostly
due to owner ignorance. The dealers didn't stress to the new owners that the
engines required 5W-xx oil. By running Wal-Mart/Jiffy Lube/quick lube generic
10W30 or 10W40 on special they inadvertently shortened the life of the
engines dramatically -- from 100K+ to about 50-60K, depending on driving habits. It
wasn't bearing lube problems, it was smaller passages in the engine to carry
the thinner oil. Not enough of the thicker stuff was flowing through. The
tighter clearances were probably part of the problem also though.
>
> I'd think the same would happen to older engines -- looser fit with thin
oil would likely shorten bearing life for them. They'd certainly use more oil
due to leakage and pulling around valve stem seals and guides.
>
> ---------------------------
> Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 12:48:20 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Davis Martin <martin-davis@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>
> Tom,
> I have no experience with the new thin oils. I have always used the old
Dino style 20-50 or 10W 40. But I too have read that the new light weight
oils are for the new tighter engines of today. I would tend to agree.
> Ways to cut down on the drag of suspended oil is to use 5w 40 or 10W40
and using a crank scraper really helps as well. The serious racers (drag) use
the lightest oil possible to get every last bit of power. But they also tear
the whole engine down after every run and freshen the motor.
> Davis
>
>
------------------------------
Message: 11
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2008 23:31:03 -0700
From: Jim Blair <carnuck@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [Amc-list] IH auto question
To: <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <BAY122-W19D9CD75E577E7D21FA8CEAC070@xxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
'66 to '69 Travelall with IH 304 auto (2wd) is supposed to have a BW auto?
If so, any relation to anything AMC? Thinking about putting my spare 258 to
work, but maybe a 4.0L/AW4 conversion later? (I have the front axle from my
J4000 to complete the 4x4 conversion at the same time)
Picked it up for my buddy's '69 (with BG241, soon to be Nash
327/TH400/Quadratrac on LPG) and it's one big hunk of rolling iron.
_________________________________________________________________
Need to know the score, the latest news, or you need your Hotmail?-get your
"fix".
http://www.msnmobilefix.com/Default.aspx
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