[Amc-list] Motor Oil & Filter Confusion (where do I start)

["Bruce Hevner" <scramblr@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

>The problem is that the government and auto manufacturers have
pressured oil companies into removing most of >the zinc (which is used
as a high pressure resistant lube) from oil. The reason is an oil burner
car will coat the >inside of a catalytic converter with zinc and
eventually render it useless.

According to the Shell Engineer who gave the seminar it's the O2 sensor
that's the main problem and is Phosphorous (which is included as part of
the Zinc package) not Zinc that is causing it.  Phosphorous burns
leaving an ash coating on the O2 sensor. It's not much but over time it
causes the O2 sensor to get "lazy" reading the O2 thus causing the
engine to run richer which in turn increases emissions. THAT'S why the
government got involved.

>So far, as long as a flat tappet (standard lifter, no rollers) cam has
been broken in with a high pressure additive >in the oil, there's still
enough zinc in regular oil to lube it -- at least in a STOCK engine. The
people who've been >experiencing problems the most are those with higher
pressure valve springs (performance engines). There may >be increased
wear on stock engines, but the zinc reduction hasn't been in affect long
enough to really tell.

That USED to be true but the Shell guy said they are now seeing stock
OHV motors experiencing problems too. The engines with higher spring
pressure started experiencing problems first.

>A zinc supplement in the break-in oil seems to be the short term
answer. I'm not sure if running a higher zinc oil >is really necessary
after break-in, but it shouldn't be.

I disagree. I think a high zinc oil plus additive is necessary for
break-in and then the Zinc oil only (no additive) for the duration of
the life of the motor. Why take a chance on wiping a cam??

What is  "low Zinc" oil on the shelf? Look for the circle with the "API
Certified for gasoline engines" in it. This is a LOW ZINC oil and should
be used in roller engines only (according to the Shell Engineer). Low
Zinc oil will be approx 600- 800 or less, some MUCH less.

FILTERS
Even filters that say they are "full flow" do not flow ALL the oil
through them ALL the time. That is the reason for the OIL filter BY-PASS
valve. Do you really think you can push all the oil a motor pumps
through the filter when it's 0' outside?? No way, that's what your Oil
filter by pass valve is for!! It also kicks in when your filter starts
getting restricted with dirt. Better your engine gets dirty oil than
NONE at all!
 MOST modern oil filtration systems have a filter by pass either in the
block or the filter itself. YOU SHOULD NOT REMOVE THE BY PASS VALVE!!!!
Oh you can get away with it sometimes but I don't know WHY you would
want to starve your engine for oil. I have seen racers do this thinking
it's some kind of "high performance trick". I don't think they truly
understand why it's there and what it does.
  From WIX,,,
			

The Filter By-Pass Valve
If a WIX full-flow filter becomes "clogged", or excessively restrictive
to oil flow, the filter by-pass valve ensures continued engine
lubrication by allowing the oil to by-pass the filter. Some vehicle
manufacturers have the by-pass valve built into the oil filter mounting
unit (located on the engine). 

Other vehicle manufacturers require full-flow filters have the by-pass
valve built into the filter itself. All Wix oil filter types recommended
for these particular applications include the by-pass valve assembly in
the filter. 
 	By-pass Valve Assembly -- spring loaded valve assembly that
allows oil to by-pass the element under high-differential pressure
conditions such as cold oil and/or excessively contaminated media. This
allows lubrication of the engine, but without full-flow filtration

But HEY,,, that's just ME!!!
Bruce Hevner	

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