Re: [Amc-list] The '65 American 330 cranks - now to figure why it won't start

[Matt Haas <mhaas@xxxxxxx>]

Checking for voltage at the coil with the ignition on is also a good 
place to start. If your car has a coil with an internal resistor, you 
should see close to 12 volts. If it has a resistance wire, it will be 
less voltage (I think somewhere around 8 volts). Your TSM will tell you 
which type of coil you have. Also, check to make sure that you have a 
good ground between the distributor and the negative battery post. If 
the ground is no good, you'll get no spark.

You should also make sure that the distributor is installed properly. 
People do dumb things to cars trying to fix them. I have a friend who's 
picked up a couple of Jeep's for cheap because of dumb things done to them.

If you insist on fiddling with stuff before you replace it, you can 
check the points and condenser with a multi-meter (the TSM has the 
procedures in it) but you're better off replacing them.

Other than what's been said already, the TSM will have procedures in 
both the electrical and fuel sections to work through no-start problems 
if replacing the tune up stuff doesn't get it running.

Also, leaving the ignition in the RUN position with the car not running 
can ruin a set of points.

Matt

Tom Jennings wrote:
>> Not so good news: it doesn't even sound like it's trying to start
> 
> I'd just go through "tune up" stuff top to bottom. It's not hard.
> 
> They plugs won't fire well covered in oil. I'd pull ALL the
> plugs, crank for 20 seconds to fling the oil out the holes
> (messy). If the plugs look like new, OK, squirt em with carb
> cleaner (oil the threads slightly).  Why mess with crappy plugs?
> 
> If the wires are stiff, pitch 'em. If the cap and rotor look
> crappy, pitch 'em.
> 
> The logic of "I'll get it to run first then change" is
> bassackwards -- that's the same as "I'll make it as hard as
> possible to get started the first time, then easier afterwards".
> 
> NEVER!!!! use sandpaper of any kind on points. ONLY a points
> file, which is flat metal. And you don't need to file points,
> it's not a Model A, if they're bad, they're bad. You CAN file
> them, but that rarely fixes anything, as wearing points transfer
> metal from one contact to another which by itself does not harm;
> the pointy protrustion does NOT affect points gap. (The metal
> transfer means the condenser value is not correct.)
> 
> Points gap isn't too critical for low speeds, eg. idle. Get it
> close to 16 thousands and it'll start. One paper matchbook cover.
> 
> To check for spark, I'd run a plug wire into the coil tower, hold
> the plug body onto the valve cover, then crank. It eliminates
> variables (wires, cap, rotor) and prevents the motor from
> starting up, and scaring the pants off you :-) If THAT doesn't spark, no
> battery to coil, bad coil, bad points, etc.
> 
> You can even arrange to not need to crank it -- with the car ON,
> set the plug and wire to the coil, then open the points with
> your fingernail.  The plug should spark every time you OPEN
> the points. If the points are closed, short them with a small
> screwdriver (carefully, don't bend them) and it shoudl spark
> when you pull it out.
> 
>> To check the fuel
> delivery - I'd just pull the hose between the pump and the
> carb and see if any fuel comes out when cranking, right?
> 
> Yup. Run a hose from the fuel line to a can, it will spit gas
> all over the place, in pulses.
> 
> 
>> leaking from around the water pump. Not sure if it's the pump,
>> or just the gasket.
> 
> which is why people here recommend starting with pure water, not
> coolant! Might as well drain it now (keep dogs and kids away from
> it), fill with water, then watch for leaks. They will come :-)
> 
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> 

-- 
mhaas@xxxxxxx
Cincinnati, OH
http://www.mattsoldcars.com
1967 Rambler American wagon
1968 Rambler American sedan
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