[Amc-list] RUST REMOVER - citric acid powder -
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[Amc-list] RUST REMOVER - citric acid powder -









Do a www.Google.com search for:

Citric Acid Powder


I have found two Chemical Manufacturers that supply the wholesalers,
one in New Jersey, one in New York.

Citric Acid works best when Warm to Hot.

If you plan to let a spray system run overnight
on a car shell, I'd think of devising a way to use a Hot Plate
under the recovery pot.



Here's some Info Repost:



Brian,
Using Citric Acid will not hurt the paint or Bondo unless rust is under 
the material. Citric acid will not touch any hydrocarbon deposits .. it 
doesn't affect aluminum .. it will attack only rust buildup, and leaves 
the base metal alone. It will brighten copper or brass, without etching it.
Citric acid is found in Orange juice, Lemon juice or Tang. 

Just mix it 1 gallon to 5 gallons water and clean your rusty parts.  Its 
pretty cheap this way and takes only 2-3 days or less.




For using Citric Acid Powder:


1 lb. Citric Acid Powder to 10 Gallons Water.



      Posted by: "bigequip92882"  <http://profiles.yahoo.com/bigequip92882>


        Sat Jan 26, 2008 10:04 pm (PST)

Guys,
You can go to a wholesale food supplier and buy a bag (25 lbs) of
citric acid (Archer Daniels Midland mfgr), and use it to remove rust
from anything. The citric acid I use, is a food additive .. it is
100% safe with no serious handling dangers, or nasty side effects ..
and it dissolves rust beautifully, with no damage to the underlying
good metal. I belong to a Caterpillar club and we use it to remove
all the rust from a 60 yr old engine. We mix it in a 55 gallon drum

(30 gallons water and about 8 large scoops of citric acid, 3 lbs
powder).


Then set an engine block into the solution and let it set
for a week. When you pull it out it is bright metal and all the rust
is gone.
You spray or pour on the mixture and let it set, the longer it is
left on, the brighter the metal and all the rust is gone.
If you want to try it out in a small form, get an orange or
grapefruit and squeeze the juice on the rust, let it sit for a couple
days (reapplying until you get the rust removed).
One thing I should warn about .. the citric acid solution is pretty
benign on most metals besides steel .. it has little effect on
aluminum, brass and copper .. but it just LOVES enamel!
Whatever you do, NEVER use an enamelled container, such as a sink or
bathtub, to hold the solution .. because the citric acid will strip
that enamel right off, back to the pure cast iron!
Another source for citric acid solution is from your local ceramic
tile dealer. If grout haze is allowed to sit and get damp before
removing, it can set up like a thin cement on the surface of the
glaze. Tile shops sell a product that is designed to clean tile,
remove the silicone sealant (if it was sealer prior) and remove the
cement-like haze. This product is citric acid based and would
probably be easier to locate if you don't have ADM in your backyard
like I do. I have not tried this product on rusty metal, but it is
not expensive and a bit easier to store than a 55 lb bag of granular
product.

For the final treatment, after I've pressure washed the item, I give
it a spray with about a 10% solution of phosphoric acid.

This dries rapidly in moderately warm conditions, to a phosphate
coating which prevents rust forming again .. and which coating can be
either lightly oiled, to further increase protection .. or it can be
primed or painted over, directly.

I just use a small spray bottle, as available from the local
supermarket or "$2 store", to spray the phosphoric solution on.
An alternative is using a left-over kitchen or laundry cleaner spray
bottle .. but these tend to be pretty cheap and nasty construction,
and generally don't last long.

It pays to not keep the solution in the bottle, for any length of
time .. but only make up enough for immediate use .. as the trigger
and return spring mechanism in these cheap Chinese spray bottles,
tend to gum up, if the solution is left in them for an extended
period.

My 2 cents again!!
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