Just returned from the Performance Racing Industry show in Orlando. While there I attended a seminar sponsored by Shell entitled "Fuels & Lubes, Myths & Legends". For over two hours we were allowed to pick the brains of some of Shell's engineers and scientists. Readers digest version,,, When asked about Butanol there was only silence from the fuel guy. The only comment he wanted to make was "It is under study but part of the bio-fuel group, not performance" He said they don't "think" it can be a drop in replacement for gasoline but more study needs to be done. They are watching the fellow who says he can make it cheap but so far no confirmation on that. My comment to him was I think that the time for E85 is already past if Butanol can come in at even $5 a gallon. He just nodded his head. I think they are reserving judgment on that one. "Lubes" was an interesting discussion! They all agreed that you can NOT make a blanket statement that Group V (Red Line etc) lubes are better simply because they are based on Group V (Ester) base stock. They were adamant that PAO type oils (Mobil1) have made great strides in the last few years and meet the needs of most racers. They said they could make that type lube if they wanted but did not think the price level necessary would make it marketable for them. They said over 80% of NASCAR teams are currently using syn lubes, many with viscosity as low as FIVE weight!!! The MAIN benefit to using syn lube is it's high temperature stability NOT increased HP. The tests that compare dino lube and syn lube showing increased HP is due mainly to the change in VISCOSITY,, not the type of oil. He said he has never seen a valid test showing more than a 6-7 HP gain from switching to syn lube. You should always use the LOWEST viscosity that your engine combo can tolerate. The only way to tell is to start reducing weight until you start seeing bearing and or piston scuffing. Then go with the next higher weight. Most top fuel racers are now using SEVENTY weight syn lube. For MOST applications there is no longer a need to use dino lube to "break in" an engine. Modern rings and cylinder techniques make it unnecessary. There was a lot of "hedging" on an answer for the place of dino-syn "blend" oils! They admitted that adding dino oil to a syn oil REDUCES the failure level to that of a dino oil. But they stated there is a "place" in the market for a mid "priced" product that has the appeal of syn without the price. I told them I thought it was strictly a MERCHANDISING move!!,,, They moved on to the next question,,, ZDDP,,, BOY there was discussion on THAT one! ZDDP HAS been reduced in many (but not ALL) current lubes. Before the reductions started most high quality oil had 12-1300 PPM level of ZDDP. The request came from the MFGs who were seeing a reduction in O2 sensor performance over time due to ash coating coming from burning Phosphorus (part of ZDDP). It was then reduced to 1000 and then to 800 where it is now. Not ALL oils have been reduced. The reduced oils have the "starburst" (circle with a star) on the label. They advised staying away from those oils if you have a flat tappet type cam! Yes Shell Rotella-T STILL has 1200ppm. The 800 oils are FINE for use in a "roller" motor. They also advised being VERY cautious in choosing a "non detergent" oil IF you need it. They do NOT recommend using a ND oil to break in a motor because many contain NO anti-wear additives (Shell does). Additives ,, They are COMPLETELY aware of additives claims but do NOT recommend using ANY unless there is a special TEMPORARY need (cleaning a sludged engine). The reason? there is NO way to know what kind of interaction there might be between the oil's additive package and what you are adding to it. Some combinations can make the ENTIRE additive package fall out and render the oil almost useless! If you are having a problem they recommend contacting the OIL mfg for advice on how to solve it. They know there are LOTS of folks using additives that they SWEAR by. If your combination is working for you that's OK. But be aware you are playing with fire!! Pretty much validated the procedure I have been using. Rotella-T 15-40 for 1000 mile break in then Mobil1 10-30. But HEY,,, that's just ME!!! Bruce Hevner -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://www.amc-list.com/pipermail/amc-list/attachments/20071210/04034b6b/attachment.htm _______________________________________________ Amc-list mailing list Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list