Re: [Amc-list] t14 to t96 overdrive
[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]
Re: [Amc-list] t14 to t96 overdrive
- From: Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2007 03:41:06 +0000
Oh, I can't help but say, Cut the firewall ! Or put a 3.7 or some such short motor in it.
I'd not go to the work of swapping just to gain the FORD six...
A 3.7 overhead cam motor would be cool! I wonder if it would fit!
--
Mark Price
Morgantown, WV
1969 AMC Rambler, 4.0L, EFI, T-5
2004 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.7L, Quadratrc II
" Chronic Pain Hurts"
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx>
> Before you cut the firewall up on that convertible consider using a Ford 200 or
> 250 six (NOT the 240 or 300 -- they won't fit!) and mating transmission. They
> are similar to the 196 -- short tall block with a small bore and long stroke. It
> will fit WITHOUT cutting the firewall or fenderwell panels. It has the intake
> cast into the head like the 196, so the carb is close to the valve cover also.
>
> If you cut the firewall you also lose your heating system. You need about four
> more inches to put a 232/258 in, and will have to custom make mounts for
> everything. This is one case Id rather see the Ford engine used simply because
> you won't have to cut anything. That way it can be returned to original
> condition in the future instead of just becoming a parts car or hot rod fodder.
> It's your car, do what you want, I'm just presenting an alternative that would
> be less work in the long run and make the car just as enjoyable, especially if
> you use a late model (80s) 250. The 250 has a taller deck than the 200, but both
> are capable of more power than the 196. See www.fordsix.com. The 200 stock is
> about the same as the 196, by the way, but parts are easier to get and then
> there are some speed parts for it also.
>
> The column shifter can be fixed! There is an adjustment for the bottom that most
> people don't know about. AMC used a big nylon/plastic piece on the bottom that
> holds the lower steering shaft bearing and the column shift levers slide
> against. It eventually wears to the point that there is no more adjustment. To
> adjust it tighter you loosen two small screws on the sides at the base of the
> column and rotate the end piece, then tighten the screws. If it won't adjust any
> tighter (there's only about 1/8" of adjustment there), you have to pull the
> column. At that point you can make a new lower piece or try to find a 1/16"
> thick washer that will go over the shaft and fit inside the column to use as a
> spacer. The plastic usually cracks or the screws strip out though, so making a
> new one just a bit taller is a better idea.
>
> Not as hard as it sounds! If you have a drill and hole saw you can make one. Get
> a piece of hardwood (oak, birch, etc. -- pine will work though, and may last as
> long as the plastic did) and a hole saw about the same size on the inside as the
> inner diameter of the column. I think a 1.5" hole saw will work -- might be a
> 2". Cut the disk with the hole saw first. It needs to be about an inch thick. If
> you need to make more than one disc and glue together (laminate them). Leave the
> small inner hole for now. Get a 3" or so 1/4" bolt and put it through the pilot
> hole, then run a nut and washer down tight. Chuck it in a drill and staple a
> piece of sandpaper to a board. Sand it down until it fits the end of the column.
> Then take the bolt out and bore the center hole out for the shaft. You need to
> bore/router a recess for the bearing too, if memory serves. Then you can slip
> the new piece in and put the two screws at the bottom of the adjustment slots so
> it can be tightened up later. Pu
> t a good coating of grease on the surface that goes against the shift lever,
> and grease it once a year or every other year, depending on how much the car is
> driven.
>
> The good thing about wood is it's easy to work, just as durable as the plastic,
> and if you strip the screw holes out it can be rotated. The plastic is old and
> brittle after 40 or so years and doesn't take well to new screws, but I have
> managed to rotate a couple, drill a small hole, and put screws in without
> breaking. One split in two! I have meant to make a bunch of these and offer them
> for sale, but lost my spare (pattern!).
>
> The Hollander manual is misleading. AMC did indeed reuse many parts from year to
> year. In the 70s there were lots of new parts, but those were the years the
> government was big on mandatory smog and safety changes, not always for the
> best. Hollanders goes by the factory parts books. AMC did change numbers
> sometimes from year to year for the SAME part. Hollanders uses factory part
> numbers as one of their interchange guides. AMC was king of parts
> interchangeability for a long time, mainly in the early to mid 60s, then again
> in the 70s (Hornet/Gremlin). The two exceptions are the Matador Coupe (to a
> small extent -- mostly body parts were unique but most mechanical parts
> interchanged with others) and the Pacer (nearly everything but the drivetrain
> was totally unique to it!).
>
> --------------------------
> Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2007 00:09:20 -0500
> From: M Walter <redamc1963@xxxxxxxxxxx>
>
> I have a t96 w/ od. I dont use the od because it interferes with the Hurst
> shifter that i put into it. I've found out the hard way thet once a rambler
> American column shift goes bad, it stays bad. While I miss shifting with the
> flick of the pedal or touch of the clutch, the straight three speed on the floor
> is far more desirable. Especially when turning left out of a busy intersection
> with the column shift unable to grab any gear and your life flashes before your
> eyes. I have a t14 to put in , but the long parent shaft (that I could cut off
> to make to fit) and the fact I have yet to find a yoke to fit the harlot have
> prevented me fron making the switch. So my intetions now are to swap a jeep 4.0,
> cut the firewall on my 25,000mi. 63 breadbox convt. and give both trannys to my
> notable friend for his 53 hudson jet. He has the Hollander interchange books
> which gave me great insight into wy AMC failed. They put 99% new parts in every
> car every year. I am still totally hooked
> though. THANK YOU, AMC faithful P.S. I drove a Pacer in High School.
>
> --
> Frank Swygert
> Publisher, "American Motors Cars"
> Magazine (AMC)
> For all AMC enthusiasts
> http://farna.home.att.net/AMC.html
> (free download available!)
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Amc-list mailing list
> Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
_______________________________________________
Amc-list mailing list
Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
Back to the Home of the AMC Gremlin