I agree with you about the lower trunnion design, especially the "non-locking" issue. It's easily fixed though, tack weld or stake in a spot or two when they are assembled. When new they are pretty tight, but with age and abuse the punched hole gets worn. Adding something like your shock mount (or mine) or a "girdle" (just two pieces of 1" angle iron, one on top, one on bottom of arms between shock and pivot, with bolts on the outside clamping the arms between the angle) fix the problems with little work. I drove and abused my 63 American for 14 years all over the country and only had that one cap work loose. That car literally went coast to coast! But I did have the parts strengthening the lower arms most of that time. The stock brakes on the 58-63 American are 2"x9" w/1" wheel cylinders, 139.5 sq. inches of brake area. Stock 64 Classic six brakes are 2.5"x9" w/1-1/8" wheel cylinders, 153.76 sq. inches of brake area. I used those before I knew disc brakes would fit. Those were nearly as good as disc brakes on the little American! If you have the 10" brakes may as well use them, but if the drums do warp without the flange you won't like it! ----------- Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 10:24:02 -0700 From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx> Though more looking at it, and hearing Franks' loosening trunnion problem made me study it more closely, and the more I look the less I like. That lower arm is a design problem, period. Right where the heaviest load is, force in all three planes!, is a non-positive fastener. Non-positive meaning no retaining locknut, just the threads of the trunnion nut engaging the sheet metal arm. It's weak by design. Big brakes and modern fat tires would make this a ton worse! You could apply forces to that lower trunnion that would have been impossible in 1963. 9x2 brakes and 6.00 tires, there's your force limiting! AND Since I was at final assembly I decided to re-visit what it would take to put 10x2.5 drums on the front. It's possible!! Fits the wheel and knuckle just fine. A non-compromising clearance notch cut into the backing plate would clear the steering arm. A 1/8" - 1/4" spacer, or disk brake spindles (tall) would reduce the side of the clearance notch. HOWEVER -- the outer flange on the drum would have to be cut off. Drums generally ahve a flange that straddles the backing place rolled up edge as a dirt seal. The other lip would have to come off. This would hurt drum stiffness and probably heat-expansion issues, but since they're so absurdly oversized in the first place, it probably wouldn't matter. -- Frank Swygert Publisher, "American Motors Cars" Magazine (AMC) For all AMC enthusiasts http://farna.home.att.net/AMC.html (free download available!) _______________________________________________ Amc-list mailing list Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list