Re: [Amc-list] Dynasour, Diesel, Synthetic or Urban Legend?

[Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx]

John,
  I think you get away with the thick oils because of your climate.
Try it around here and it's a different story! 
Have you checked cam dist wear on your Spirit?
Just curious, really, not picking at all.
 I don't remember what cam you have in.
What has been mentioned is that the problem seems to occur in flat tappet engines that are broken in on the new oils. Anything that was done a few years back and is well broken in seems to do better.
  I'm actually not real concerned with mine either. It has a plain Jane NOS 1987 4.0L cam in it that was made in 1987! I carried that darned thing around in a taped together box for three moves till I finally had a 4.0L to put it in!
 I don't remember what lifters are on it though!  

--
Mark Price
Morgantown, WV
1969 AMC Rambler, 4.0L, EFI, T-5
" I was different before people dared to be different" 

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "John Elle" <johnelle@xxxxxxxxx>
> I found out the dealer wanted $300 to change the oil and do a 30,000 
> mile check up 8 months after I bought my last new car and would not 
> put in 20-50 per my request at the time.
> I have lived in high heat area?s for over 20 years now, have a stable of
> 
> cars (all paid for) that I also am the only mechanic on (which is how I 
> can afford to have them) and have driven over 30,000 miles a year on 
> my primary driver a good portion of that time all of which ran 20-W-50 
> motor oil exclusively from the time of purchase or rebuilt which ever 
> came first and have never had an oil related problem and do not consider
> that too heavy. 
> However if I were to put in 5-W-whatever I frankly would expect some 
> kind of wear out problem once the temperature outside got over the 
> freezing level. 
> I am also a member of the Saturn List and there is constant chatter 
> of excessive oil consumption on what is now the early Saturns one 
> of which I have been maintaining for the last 40,000 miles and it 
> now has 90,000 miles on it with absolutely no oil consumption problem. 
> I might be old school and just pig headed enough to think that light 
> weight engine oil and engine wear go hand in hand and that is what 
> I am seeing or at least having lived through the supposed no lead 
> valve wear debacle that is what I think I see. ?Specially when I start 
> reading that people believe that a 5 ?something oil is appropriate for 
> an engine drive hard during the summer. I come from the snow 
> belt in upstate N.Y. My engines would last about 100,000 miles and get 
> about 800-900 miles a qt. at that point in time. That would be with 
> using 5 W 20 during the winter and 10-W-30 during the summer. 
> Nothing I have uses oil between oil changes now except the Donohue
>  with bad valve oil seals that I should have changed when I put
>  the open chamber heads on it. 
> My lowest milage engine that has not be rebuilt is 75,000 miles on 
> the 1980 AMX. My rebuilt engines have at least 30,000 on them at 
> the present and I have 5 cars licensed to drive. I sold my 270,000 
> mile car last year! All the non-rebuilt engines are around 120,000
> miles or so.
> The ?infamous? sludge engine might have had a real problem with 
> an oil screen being too small, I do not know that for sure but I would 
> never have believed that Chrysler would have problems with their 
> automatics until I bought my T & C and discovered that they have 
> managed to apply years of technological leader ship in transmission 
> design to generate a real piece of junk apparently using all of the 
> ideas that did not work or something equally inane! 
> But some how to me the problem is basic. The oil is too light, the 
> engines are being worn out. 
> One mans opinion. 
> John. 
>  
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