[Amc-list] Subject: Re: Synthetic or conventional../Chrysler 2.7
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[Amc-list] Subject: Re: Synthetic or conventional../Chrysler 2.7




 I can't speak very much about the classics, but I can a little on the 2.7 engine. My wife did have an 03 Sebring with a 2.7 in it. I was already aware of the sludge problems before I bought it and I did manage to avoid that problem, because when the mechanic tore it down, he said it was the cleanest 2.7 he'd ever seen with less than 50k on it, and ours had over 89k.
 The sludge didn't get me, but one of the mains went and apparently, it's a non clearance engine.....OUCH!! 

 He figured the oil pump was going out due to scarring, but said it was definitely not sludge related. Fortunately, I had warranty to 100k and got a rebuilt engine....took two months a nasty email with another mechanics opinion and a request for their legal department contact info for my attorney, but they did replace it and waved the deductible. Anyways, that's another story..
   What the mechanic told me about the 2.7's was that they where really good engines, as long as you followed the letter of the maintenance manual, which says to use ONLY 5w20 or 30 or something. He claimed that plenty of people change their oil, but would take it to Jiffy Lube (or such place) and they always put the cheapest stuff in, which would be too thick and struggle to get through the oil screen filter coming up from the pan. He said the screen was very fine and the thick oil would heat cool and get thicker and start to sludge at the screen and it was all down hill from there.
 (Side note: The tranny went out at 55k and the engine went at around 89k. Two months after fighting with warranty company and getting the car back, our 16 year old foster daughter and her friend took it for a joy ride and totaled it...DANG!!!)


--- amc-list-request@xxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:

From: amc-list-request@xxxxxxxxxxxx
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Amc-list Digest, Vol 8, Issue 19
Date: Tue, 07 Aug 2007 12:00:06 -0700

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Today's Topics:

   1. Synthetic or Conventional (John Elle)
   2. Re: Synthetic or conventional.... (Steve Cornelius)
   3. 360 build - what to save? (Steve Cornelius)
   4. Oil to Use:  It must be rated for 'Diesel' (Brien Tourville)
   5. Rustoleum for Rusty Plastic Steering Wheels (Brien Tourville)
   6. FTS! (Brien Tourville)
   7. "Yank it up Baybay - Get'cha somethin you need" - 4.0	swap -
      (Brien Tourville)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 10:38:28 -0700
From: "John Elle" <johnelle@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [Amc-list] Synthetic or Conventional
To: <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <000001c7d919$c83f7440$eadc0d82@john1>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

SNIP
It's been so good when it decides to be bad, we'll miss 
the signs till its too late!
SNIP
My Mitsubishi was like that, I bought it brand new
in 1992 figuring to throw it away in 4 years with 
100,000 miles on it. I immediately changed the oil 
at 500 miles to 20W50 conventional oil and ran it 
like that until April 2005 with 270,000 miles on it. 
Every so often I would consider trading it, but it ran 
so well and was in good enough shape that I just kept 
driving it. 'Sides I could not at the time find a 5 pass. 
Van, everyone wanted me to buy all the seats and 
store what I did not need in the garage. What I did 
not need was a 7+passenger van so I kept the 
Mistu. aka Eagle Summit wagon. 
When the A/C crapped out just after it blew a head 
gasket at 270,000 miles I fixed the head gasket 
and sold it. 
I sure miss it. The only thing it needed most of the time
was a key and a cam shaft drive cog belt every 70,000.
John. 
 
 
 
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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 10:39:40 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
From: Steve Cornelius <steve.c@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [Amc-list] Synthetic or conventional....
To: "AMC/Rambler owners,drivers and fans." <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID:
	<30707044.1186508380407.JavaMail.root@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
	
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

> The car is a 2006 Dodge Magnum SE. 2.7 liter V-6
> with a 4 speed auto.

Hmmmm...

If I'm not mistaken (you have the 24V DOHC with variable induction, right?), this is the infamous "sludge motor" that got such a nasty self-destruction reputation a few years ago (see http://allpar.com/mopar/new6.html).

The problems I've heard rumored with the original engine design were (1) too shallow of an oil pan in the LH cars, (2) a bad PCV design, and (3) too-small oil galleys up near the timing chain. Supposedly this was all "fixed" back about 2003, but I've never seen any conclusive evidence either way.

We have one of these engines in a Sebring ragtop (an '04). Because of the reputation they have, many owners, myself included, run synthetic oil in it just as insurance against sludge. In theory, the synthetics don't have the dissolved parrafins in them to cook out and combine with combustion byproducts to produce sludge under high heat.

I've heard that good quality hydrocracked mineral oils (Google on "isodewaxing", a Chevron process) are also good for making sure that sludges don't build, because the parrafins are chemically separated from the base stock. They're quite a bit less expensive than PAO synthetics, too.

So, you might want to consider this over the long term of owning your engine. The design issues should have been fixed by '06, but only some Mopar engineers know for sure.

BTW, I think it's a really sweet engine to drive. Clean power curve, and spins nice and smooth all the way up near 6500rpm. It's just a blast to straight-shift it.

They're built in Kenosha, BTW, so it is part of the "family" in a way ;)

-steve c.





------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 10:55:25 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
From: Steve Cornelius <steve.c@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [Amc-list] 360 build - what to save?
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID:
	<28961118.1186509325161.JavaMail.root@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
	
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

OK, I've been debating this for weeks, so I'm going to pose a question to the list.

I have a 2-barrel 360/727 combo that I want to build up and put in my 71 humpster (it has a modified 304/M11 combo in it now). The combo was pulled from a 74 rust victim, and has sat idle since 89. I'm in the process of tearing it down now.

Now, I've swapped engines before, but I've never built one up on my own. I've long wanted to, and since this is a toy, I can live with it if I make a mistake. I have the engine disassembled down to a short block at the moment, with the top end parts all nice and ordered across my workbench.

So here's the question; if I'm planning to re-do it with roller rockers and such, what's worth saving here? I don't have lots of room for old parts of questionable value laying around, so is there a point to hanging onto the old bridges and rockers? Lifters (I can't imagine why)? Is there any value in a cast-iron 2V manifold that I'm not going to use?

I'm loathe to see old out-of-production parts thrown out, but I really don't see who would want them either. So, do I packrat them, or let 'em go?

-steve c.






------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Tue, 07 Aug 2007 14:03:37 -0400
From: Brien Tourville <hh7x@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [Amc-list] Oil to Use:  It must be rated for 'Diesel'
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <46B8B3F9.2090009@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"


Subject:
[Amc-list] Synthetic or conventional....
From:
"William Renshaw" <lionwren@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Date:
Mon, 06 Aug 2007 21:04:23 -0700

To:
amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx



Just purchased a new car a couple of weeks ago and would like to use 
synthetic oil instead of conventional oil. Does anyone know the goods 
and bads of using synthetics compaired to using a conventional oil.
The car is a 2006 Dodge Magnum SE. 2.7 liter V-6 with a 4 speed auto.
Thanks in advance...
Bill Northern Id.



---.---


Run a 'Diesel' rated Synthetic like
Mobil '1' 'Delvac'.

Google Diesel engine oils - plenty of
coverage as to why - .

Long and short of it is:

The EPA wanted the Oil companies to lose
their 'wear protection' package - Moly
and some other things that prevent metal
to metal contact - because - if your engine
was burning oil - it would decrease the
effectivness of the Catalytic Convertor.

The Truckers threatened a shut down strike
since their operating costs and down times
from Engine damage / failures would be huge.

So - the only Oils that still contain an
Anti-Wear package are the Diesel Rated oils.

I've 4 quarts of Delvac sitting next to me
at the moment - going into my '89 Cherokee.

The TOYOTA truck and car guys run Diesel oil
and rave on it - engine is quieter etc.

BMW buys 'Delvac' from Mobil and repackages
it as 'BMW OIL' - runs in all their vehicles
from the Factory.



-- 

                            ___
        =Bt=              /~   ~\
  milnersXcoupe          |_      |
   "The Heretic"         |/     __-__
                          \   /~     ~~-_
                           ~~ -~~\       ~\
                            /     |        \
               ,           /     /          \
             //   _ _---~~~    //-_          \
           /  (/~~ )    _____/-__  ~-_       _-\             _________
         /  _-~\\0) ~~~~         ~~-_ \__--~~   `\  ___---~~~        /'
        /_-~                       _-/'          )~/               /'
        (___________/           _-~/'         _-~~/             _-~
     _ ----- _~-_\\\\        _-~ /'      __--~   (_ ______---~~~--_
  _-~         ~-_~\\\\      (   (     -_~          ~-_  |          ~-_
 /~~~~\          \ \~~       ~-_ ~-_    ~\            ~~--__-----_    \
;    / \ ______-----\           ~-__~-~~~~~~--_             ~~--_ \    .
|   | \((*)~~~~~~~~~~|      __--~~             ~-_               ) |   |
|    \  |~|~---------)__--~~                      \_____________/ /    ,
 \    ~-----~    /  /~                             )  \    ~-----~    /
  ~-_         _-~ /_______________________________/    `-_         _-~
     ~ ----- ~                                            ~ ----- ~  

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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 07 Aug 2007 14:08:31 -0400
From: Brien Tourville <hh7x@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [Amc-list] Rustoleum for Rusty Plastic Steering Wheels
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <46B8B51F.4070006@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"


Subject:
[Amc-list] plastic paint
From:
"adam young" <adamjyoung70@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Date:
Tue, 07 Aug 2007 04:29:36 +0000

To:
amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx


on the steering wheel paint.

i was asking if anyone has used the rustolum plastic paint. It shows it 
used on outdoor chairs and any plastic items.

they sell these at hardware stores/ lowes. you don't have the factory 
colors but it comes in the basic colors. in my case red is available.

i think im going to try it.

-adam



---.---




Read this:


http://tinyurl.com/228gph


just my .02 WideBand



-- 

    =Bt=
milnersXcoupe

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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 07 Aug 2007 14:14:28 -0400
From: Brien Tourville <hh7x@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [Amc-list] FTS!
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <46B8B684.50602@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"


Subject:
Re: [Amc-list] Thomas Garner, 64 Classic
From:
Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
Date:
Mon, 06 Aug 2007 23:29:38 -0700

To:
"AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>


On Monday 06 August 2007 18:40:24 Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx wrote:


> > You should [murderous word that one, locks you into the past!] welded a
> > pipe thread bung into the pan. You'd have got a real good reading then... 
>   

I ain't droppin no pan! FTS! 



The sender intimate with the block with a coat of 
silicone over the outside got me within a degree or two on the radiator, 
it'll do fine on the trans. Response time will suck, but who cares.

I ain't dropping the pan!!!




---.---





Not finding FTS! under 'Oil Pan' in the TSM - 

is this a 'Technical Colloquialism' ?








-- 

    =Bt=
milnersXcoupe
"The Heretic"

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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 07 Aug 2007 14:22:38 -0400
From: Brien Tourville <hh7x@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [Amc-list] "Yank it up Baybay - Get'cha somethin you need" -
	4.0	swap -
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <46B8B86E.6030609@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"


Subject:
Re: [Amc-list] Thomas Garner, 64 Classic (Tom Jennings)
From:
"Thomas Garner" <Tgarner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Date:
Tue, 07 Aug 2007 04:36:29 -0700

To:
<amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>


I'm not sure if I should reply to all or one person who replied. Anyways, as I was telling Frank, it has a 232 badge on the front fender so I'd always assumed it was a 232. My 63 parts car has a 196 I think, but I'm sure my 64 is a 232. My reason of wanting to swap is for power. If I get near 60-65 MPH, my engine is wrapped up tight. Just not any more push in it at that point.



===.===




More power is the Best reason to yank that brick -
a cool LOOKING engine is another good one too......


Put a 4.0 in there with a 4spd. Aisin from a 2wd Cherokee.

Find the trans on www.naxja.org.

Best motors are the '88-'89 Renix or a '96 - '99 4.0.





-- 

    =Bt=
milnersXcoupe
"The Heretic"

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