Brien, SNIP So boxing in / strengthening or recreating my Eagle control arms in tubular steel - looking to get out all the flex - will lead to binding and excessive damage ? SNIP Read completely and understand. ARM not ARMS and specifically; Snip The lower control arm is a scary poor design as is the geometry it works with. But it does work the way it was designed to work. It must flex to be functional and flex it does. Snip And according to my TSM the Eagle front suspension in terms of the lower control arm is the same as the two wheel drive AMC cars so yes, I believe so otherwise I would not have stated it as such. The design for the most part is a compromise of function vs cost and if a piece can be designed that will function according to the objectives and meet what ever safety standards apply and be the cheapest possible way to make the part, compromise enters the picture. The first compromise for the lower control arm is they are interchangeable side to side thus needing to make only one part. Another compromise is that they are used on all model AMC cars. There is no discernible difference that I have found in any 1970 plus lower control arm application from 1970 to end of production. The same part works for a Gremlin as it does for a fully loaded AMBO. This is also true of the upper control arm. How does it function? It pivots on a bolt located on the engine support cross member. This same cross member locates the inner end of the lower control arm. The bolt also operates as a cam to control front wheel camber. The rubber bushing not only insulates the chassis from road shock transmitted to it from the front wheel but also allows some resistance to movement due to the fact that the center sleeve and the outer shell of the bushing is vulcanized to the metal, so nothing rotates there, but the rubber flexes allowing the lower control arm to pivot at that point as it moves up and down. The outer edge of the lower control arm describes and arc as it moves. The dimensions of the arc are determined by the radius length of the lower control arm to the pivot point. Solidly attached to the lower control arm is the strut rod. It triangulates the outer end of the lower control arm to the chassis and it's pivot point is the strut rod mounting bracket located on the chassis about 2 feet back of the lower control arm, thus as the lower control arm moves up and down the strut rod does too, along with a little bit of pivot action. However the end of the strut rod also goes through an arc as determined of the strut rod describing a radius of a circle. The pivot action of the strut rod is taken care of by the strut rod rubber bushing design however in order for the end of the strut rod to ride up and down with the lower control arm there has to be some give some where and that give is in the rubber of the strut rod bushing. Also if the end must prescribe and arc, and in part the properties of the arc are determined by the adjustment of the Caster of the front wheel which is determined by the length of the strut rod and also by the arc moment of the lower control arm moving up and down. The bottom line is that the lower control arm and the strut rod go through a compound arcing moment as the tire moves up and down and the flex in the system is a combination of the following. The strut rod is mounted in rubber allowing a pivot point for one arc. The lower control arm bushing is only pressed into one side with the other side a clearance hole around the bushing to allow some flex of the lower control arm at the bushing. The bushing is rubber which gives some flex to the bushing lower control arm combination. In addition the strut rod bushing and mounting is used to position the strut rod to maintain caster adjustment of the front wheels and to absorb impact pressures from road hazards. There are a whole lot of weird monkey motions and strange pressure profiles going on in this front suspension design which in an of itself is a compromise to cost and function and application in the first place. Why was it done this way I dunno other than it probably worked over the design objective criteria as analyzed, if it stems from a previous design tooling was probably in place and could be re-used with out a capital expense and it probably met usage criteria assuming factory recommended maintenance took place. Plus past warranty for the most part hands could be washed of it. What problems could have entered to alter assumptions over the years? The change in Caster from - numbers to + numbers for one. - number Caster made it easier to steer the car with out power steering as front end weight increased. Plus numbers favors self centering which could eliminate wander at speed. If the original design was optimized for - caster, simply adjusting + caster in would put it towards one end of it's design parameter causing possible reliability problems. What I see when I go after cores, the lower control arm is bent, twisted and broken at the bushing point along with the hole wore out so a new bushing will fall out of the control arm. This is probably caused by improper maintenance for the most part as the older and more neglected these cars got the worse the wear out issues became. As far as polyurethane goes! Installing polyurethane bushings in the lower control arm and strut rod locations eliminate the flex that is required for proper operation of these parts in that location. There will be incredible resistance to any of these parts moving the arcing motion they should do. What will happen to them. The lower control arm will bend and flex and fatigue and break at the lower control arm bushing location. Why? Everything there is designed to flex, anything you do to eliminate flex of the lower control arm over the normal operating range will force parts to bend and flex and possibly break some where else. Not good. If you want to limit the movement of these parts and then re-enforce them you might be able to get away with it but the next question for me is how long. You asked, this is my answer from looking at damaged parts, damaged parts don't lie. I will not install polyurethane bushings in either the lower control arm or the strut rod for the above reasons. What you do with it is your decisions. You asked, this is my answer. And as the refrain goes I'm sticking to it. John. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://www.amc-list.com/pipermail/amc-list/attachments/20070703/da583401/attachment.htm _______________________________________________ Amc-list mailing list Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list