Re: [Amc-list] Replacing strut-rod bushing

[Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx]

I use steel ramps up front and jackstands at the rear.
lots of room that way.
If you don't ahve ramps and want it in the air, use four jack stands two front under the front subframes and rear axle. Then use a bottle jack to raise the control arm to take the bind out.
I usually leave the floor jack with slight tension under the front crossmember too, Just in case!

--
Mark Price
Morgantown, WV
1969 AMC Rambler, 4.0L, EFI, T-5
" I was different before people dared to be different" 

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "John Elle" <johnelle@xxxxxxxxx>
> Snip
> My experience with changing the busings has been the same as Toms --
> weight
> needs to be on the control arm. I've also found it best to leave the
> tire on
> the ground.
> Snip
>  
> I guess I never gave this much thought as it seemed obvious to me the
> first time I rebuilt a suspension 
> that it goes back together easier if the front wheel is at normal ride
> height. A couple of dozen later 
> it still looks obvious. Not only to get the strut rod back in which if
> you let the wheel dangle really weird
> angles start to take place and stuff binds you really had no idea would.
> 
> However I sit my car on jack stands cuz if I don't my back hurts. I also
> need to crawl underneath it. 
> I use a jack under the lower control arm to lift the wheel just high
> enough where the weight of the car 
> is just being picked up off of the jack stand. 
> Not only do you have access to everything, the strut rod goes where it
> belongs with out an argument
> and when you tighten down the bolts that hold the control arms in place,
> you tighten down on the 
> steel insert effectively trapping it so it can not turn. When you let
> the car back down the rubber bushing
> is at a neutral position and flex in both directions. If you let the
> wheel down all of the way so it hangs 
> the control arm bushing is stressed all of the way to one end of the
> motion and as the rubber is
>  vulcanized to both the steel insert and the shell it starts to rip it
> self free and begin the road to 
> premature failure. Polyurethane pieces you do not have to worry about as
> they rotate independent 
> of the steel insert and the shell. Of course in long term driving the
> material is ground off of the sliding 
> parts of the polyurethane pieces and they begin to wear themselves out
> but for most people that 
> is unimportant. But 5 years of regular use seems to come up when ever
> the subject is brought up, of 
> course that assumes a daily driver. 
> John. 
>  
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: 
> http://www.amc-list.com/pipermail/amc-list/attachments/20070602/150b92a5/attachm
> ent.htm 
> _______________________________________________
> Amc-list mailing list
> Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list

_______________________________________________
Amc-list mailing list
Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list