Re: [Amc-list] breaks

[Matt Haas <mhaas@xxxxxxx>]

Tom,

Sounds like it's too late now but the ridiculously huge flare nuts you 
need are available from a couple places. Inline Tube 
(http://www.inlinetube.com) is one place that carries them.

Also, I'll do you one better on scary brake lines: When I switched out 
the rear line on my 67 American, it started leaking out of the middle of 
the line after the tranny cross member was removed. The only thing I can 
figure that kept it from leaking the rest of the time was the slight 
pressure the cross member puts on the anti-rattle sleeve in that area. I 
hadn't driven the car at that point since I knew the wheel cylinders 
where bad but it didn't leak at all stomping on the brake pedal.

Matt

Tom Jennings wrote:
> No, I mean breaks, as in the brake line broke when I bent
> it. Wow, talk about living on the edge... I actually drove
> this thing.
> 
> The brake lines in this American were very rusty, so I pulled
> them all out. The branch to the right front just snapped off at
> the tee, I couldn't even see white steel in the break (brake)
> but it musta been there they held pressure.
> 
> I just bent up a bunch from straight lengths (no cockeyed
> brake switch nonsense to plumb up). I need a new flaring too,
> my old crappy KD kit really sucks. I'll probably look for a
> good quality one that does only 3/16" as that's all I ever
> double-flare. I'll keep the old kit for oddities.
> 
> By the way, the 64 master cylinder is an exact replacement for
> the 63 EXCEPT the outlet fittings on the 63 are 1/2" or 5/8"
> nuts with 3/16" tube.  I'll just do what I did on the other
> 63 -- use brass reducers.  I measured the pushrod socket depth
> and diameter, same. Bolts right up. 1963 part: $220. 1964 part:
> $27, new, not rebuilt.
> 
> Man was it easy to bend tube for this thing! Everything so
> far about this car is easier to work on than the newer stuff
> I've owned. The rear brake line took some care to get from
> the master cyl to the right "frame rail" but after that it is
> almost straight.
> 
> 
> So I now save almost everything, including one set of bad
> 9x2.5" front drums and shoes (!), for correct-part comparisons
> and cores. Glad I did. Suuure looks like you could *almost*
> put 2/5" drum+shoe on the 2.0" backing plate and hub. Only two
> things probably stop this: the top center shoe rest post height
> (too short) and wheel cylinder (hits center of 2" shoe, 1/4"
> off center for 2.5" shoe).
> 
> Turns out, the hub is the same! To keep the brake drum working
> curface centered, the 2/5" drum has a center section (that fits
> on the hub) that is below flush. The 2" wide drum has the center
> section flush with the edge of the drum workin surface.
> 
> I pulled the fronts to look at, I will depopulate one side and
> place the 2.5" shoes to see where things line up.
> 
> This is just a curiosity.  I'm gonna drive the perfectly-good
> 9x2" setup and switch to disks probably they come up for
> replacement in a year or so. And if I stay really cheap-skate,
> a 9x2.5" drum setup is not exactly rare or expensive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AEROKROIL -- I know I sound like a broken record, but that damn
> stuff removes anything. There's an element of improvability
> ("squirt on this bolt and it came right off!") as sometimes
> even the worst-looking bolts come right out anyways, special
> juice or not -- but since i've used it I have NEVER broken a
> bolt/stud or buggered a head in this car or any other.
> 
> On this car I removed in the most ordinary way:
> 
> * front brake line flare nut to flex hose, both sides
> * truly ancient exhaust manifold studs (big flakes of rust)
> * rear brake line flare nut to rear axle flex hose
> * frozen brake bleeders
> * bolt that holds the oil filler neck to exhaust manifold
> * exhaust hanger bolts
> 
> more stuff I can't recall
> 
> Exhaust manifold bolts are notorious. All three came right out.
> All I could reach with the spray was the end that was flush with
> the back of the tapped flange, that was enough. Once I got it
> out the rust extended 4 - 5 threads down, and it still came out.
> I took them out with a box-end wrench.
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> 
> 
> 

-- 
mhaas@xxxxxxx
Cincinnati, OH
http://www.mattsoldcars.com
1967 Rambler American wagon
1968 Rambler American sedan
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