I agree on all these points. That being said. I knocked one head apart last night. All valves are dead, guides are rusty they will need some work. The price difference from replacement valves to the elgin stainless swirl polished undercut stem valves is nill. What effect will moving to 1.9 ish sized intakes and 1.5-.6 exhausts have on torque? Ports are small, they need a bunch of cleanup work. From what I see larger valves will clear up some crappy angles, but I could be wrong. I don't want to murder these heads. I'm searching around trying to find someone, anyone who has actual hands on experience with Gen I engines. For now, Once this pair is bare, I'm going to take them in and get them cleaned up, probably go with a magnaflux too. Then I'll either have better facts or have to decide on my own what direction to take. If I can make a decision I'll likely get the shop to rough cut the seats then take the heads home and clean up the ports and bowls as best I can. I'm not going ot get too carried away. I don't think it would be worthwhile. It's a shame Greg Taylor never delved deeper into actually building his motor. Then I'd have some actual hands on knowledge to go to. Someone out there must have done this before??? Who built Krafts engines? if they are still aorund they likely forgot what they did by now! -- Mark Price Morgantown, WV 1969 AMC Rambler, 4.0L, EFI, T-5 -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: "Swygert, Francis G MSgt 436 CES/CECM" <Francis.Swygert3@xxxxxxxxxxxx> > I agree with you John! One reason the old 327 was reasonably hot off the > line with 3.15 gears (at least in the 62-64 "short" Ambo) was the small > ports, valves, and carb! Remember, smaller will mean higher velocities > also. High velocity small venturii/ports/valves will mean better > off-line performance -- better/quicker low end torque. So it takes off > great, but runs out of breath over 5K rpm. Like you said, the only way > to make it build more power is to crank it up to 6-7K. The old 327 will > take that (I wouldn't run any stock engine long at 7K, but changing > gears that high on a drag strip should be fine), but what do you gain in > a street car?? > > Personally I'd clean up the ports (the factory never does a great job -- > to much time for a little gain), match them to the intake and exhaust > manifolds, then go to a 600 cfm carb and nice big 2" dual exhausts (or > 3.5" single) with a standard turbo type muffler. The chamber types are a > bit loud for a daily driver, I've discovered. That little bit of work > will wake a GEN-1 AMC 327 up quite a bit! The valve work I wouldn't do > unless it needed most of the valves replaced anyway. New guides with > smaller holes are a bit pricey, especially if the head doesn't need new > guides. But if it does need guides and valves, it's not a whole lot more > money to put the smaller stem Chevy valves in. The valve seats won't > wear enough even without hardened seats or induction hardening to worry > about on an occasionally driven car, that's been proven. But look at the > combustion chambers of a 327 -- there's not a lot more room between the > valves. Will a 0.05" larger valve really make that much difference? For > an all-out performance engine it might, but for a mid level street car I > doubt it. The dollars per hp would be a bit on the high side! > _______________________________________________ > Amc-list mailing list > Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx > http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list _______________________________________________ Amc-list mailing list Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list