Re: [Amc-list] EFI install on Eagle

[Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx]

He can get the hose at any parts store. It will usually have a 90 degree bend on one end and be 3/4" then neck down to 5/8". It comes in three or four lengths up to about 40" long.
  JB weld would be my weapon of choice if the threads are indeed shot. Clean everything super well and use the quick weld instead of tape. Let it sit for it's 24 hour full cure time before filling. I used JB weld on a cracked pot metal water seperater for my air compressor 10-12 years ago. still doesn't leak!!!
  Make sure all fittings are good as this will be the last time they come out!!!
The water is needed to help keep fuel mixed with TBI and carb systems. In cool climates it is a very good idea to leave it in place. The driveability will be vastly better with it then without! I used an 82 intake without and it worked, but was not as nice as with it connected.
  I talked to a guy from Michigan that had troubles with an un heated 4 barrel intake. He went so far as to take it off and drill it then pass a piece of 3/4" thin wall copper tube straight thru the intake front to rear, sealed it around the ends and said it was unbelievable how much better it ran!
   It's interesting that with port injection no heat is needed. The fuel does not have time to drop out since it is only travelling from the edge of the head to the valve.

--
Mark Price
Morgantown, WV
1969 AMC Rambler, 4.0L, EFI, T-5

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
> On Sat, 31 Mar 2007, Russell Neyhart wrote:
> 
> > I have a question for those of you that have installed EFI on your
> > inline 6s. When you switched to EFI, did you eliminate the manifold
> > heaters? I re-taped the front connection and over a period of a few days
> > of not driving the car, the thing has leaked again. Perhaps the car is
> > upset that I haven't driven it? Also... the thermostat outlet has a 3/4"
> > hose fitting while the (leaky again) intake manifold fitting is 5/8".
> > Does anyone have a clue which one is not the right part? Was there a
> > screwy hose with two different I.D.s on each end? Thanks so much.
> 
> On that water-cooled intake...
> 
> I havent' yet done EFI, but I like to think of the intake
> as water-cooled, not water heated. Basically it's temperature
> STABILIZED.  Rather than  cooking over the manifold heat in slow,
> hot traffic, then cooling randomly in cold highway traffic,
> it's at a more or less constant temperature.
> 
> The electric cooker that sits under the carb is surely not
> needed for EFI I would think; I assume that's for cold-weather
> startup carb emissions.
> 
> Whatever slight disadvantage the water-jacketed manifold might
> have when it's cool out (where it might contribute a tiny
> amount to mixture cooling) I think is greatly offset by tune-up
> stability overall. Likely the EFI computer compensates for any
> effects it has.
> 
> I'm assuming all-weather street driving, not racing which would
> have different criteria I know little about.
> 
> 
> The do seem to corrode at the water nipples. Dissimilar metals
> (aluminum manifold, brass or steel nipples) but I think the
> real culprit is lack of coolin system maintenance.
> 
> My junkyard unit was in fine condition except for the nipples;
> after cleanup they were too loose from lost metal corrosion. I
> JB Weld'ed in new nipples.
> 
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