Re: [Amc-list] 1970 Rebel Fuel Guage

[Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx]

Somebody did indeed have a few "sips" of beer!!!.............

:]

--
Mark Price
Morgantown, WV
1969 AMC Rambler, 4.0L, EFI, T-5

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Archimedes <Freedom@xxxxxxxx>
> 
> >My fuel guage stays on empty even whe tank is full. Ho do I determine 
> >whether the problem is with the guage itself or in the sensing unit in the 
> >tank?
> 
> 
> Just hold a match up to the fuel filler neck and look in.
> 
> OK, OK, here's the real guide, from the 70 TSM:
> 
> Sending Unit Tests ---------------------------
> 
> 1.  Check to make sure guage has a good ground.
> 
> 2.  Have a sip of beer.  Better make it two.
> 
> 3.  Off-car test with an ohmmmmmmmmmmmmeter -- Connect ohmmeter leads to 
> each other and zero the meter.
> 
> 4.  Connect leads to indicator terminal and pick-up tube.
> 
> 5.  Raise the float arm to the upper stop.  The meter should read 9.6 ohms, 
> more or less.
> 
> 6.  Go have dinner with your kids.  Or someone else's kids, it doesn't matter.
> 
> 7.  Allow the float arm to fall to its lower stop -- UNDER ITS OWN WEIGHT 
> ONLY, and at roughly the same attitude as when it is installed in the 
> car.  If it doesn't fall to its bottom stop, it is defective.
> 
> 8.  Tape this month's centerfold on your workbench so you have something to 
> keep your mind off the highly flammable fuel vapor now permeating your 
> workshop.
> 
> 9.  If it does, it should measure 73 ohms, plus or minus 12 (geez, what a 
> fudge factor!).
> 
> 10.  If the sender fails any of these tests, it is defective and must be 
> replaced.
> 
> Fuel Guage Tests ----------------------------------
> 
> 1.  If all indicators fail to operate or are grossly incorrect, check the 
> instrument panel voltage regulator before harassing the fuel guage.
> 
> 2.  Disconnect the wire from the fuel tank sending unit, and connect it to 
> a known good sending unit.  [now, where did I put my spare NOS fuel tank 
> sender...  D'OH!!!]
> 
> 3.  Connect a jumper wire to a good ground.
> 
> 4.  Go for a walk, and finish your beer.  Get another one.
> 
> 5.  Turn on the ignition switch.
> 
> 6.  Move the float arm to the upper stop.  The indicator should read "F" or 
> "full".
> 
> 7.  Allow the float arm to return to its lower stop.  The indicator should 
> now read "E".
> 
> 8.  If the indicator now reads correctly, the tank sending unit is defective.
> 
> 9.  Swear quietly at the thought of having to drop the fuel tank to get at 
> that danged sending unit.
> 
> 10.  If the indicator still reads improperly or is erratic, the indicator 
> or the wiring to the indicator is faulty.
> 
> 11.  Nip off some more beer.
> 
> 12.  Disconnect the main harness from the instrument cluster.
> 
> 13.  Call up your best friend and ask him to bring over more beer.
> 
> 14.  Connect the lead from the test sending unit to the fuel indicator pin 
> terminal at the rear of the instrument cluster.
> 
> 15.  Connect a jumper wire from the pickup tube of the test sending unit to 
> a steering column mounting bolt to provide a good ground for the test unit.
> 
> 16.  Finish your second beer, open one more, chug it, and get another.
> 
> 17.  Connect a jumper from the ignition terminal of the main harness plug 
> to the ignition terminal of the cluster.
> 
> 18.  Repeat the test for the tank sending unit.
> 
> 19.  Throw a wrench at the cat trying to sneak into your garage.
> 
> 20.  If the indicator does not read correctly or is erratic, the indicator 
> is defective and must be replaced.
> 
> 21.  If the indicator reads correctly, the wire between the indicator and 
> tank is defective and must be repaired.
> 
> 22.  Finish up the rest of your six pack, and call your friend again to ask 
> where he is with the beer.
> 
> -- end --
> 
> 
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