Re: [AMC-List] 2x or 3x carb intake for 196ohv

[farna@xxxxxxx]

I ran a home made 2x1 intake for the 196 (there are no 3x1 intakes). I used a pair of Carter YFs instead of the smaller Holley 1909s the Offenhauser intake was intended for. It worked fine -- just make sure the jets are the same size!! I missed a number on the rear carb main jet. It was off by a couple numbers (front was a #x6, back was #x8 -- easy to miss with the small numbers -- use a magnifying glass the FIRST time!!). Ran fine for 3-4 months, then burned a hole in the rear piston. That's when i discovered my mistake! 

I drilled a piece of 1/2" thick aluminum for the intake plate. I put the carb holes so that 1/3 of the diameter was in front of the forward edge of the siamesed intake port for #2-3 and #4-5 (to the rear of the last two). Mixture wasn't a problem except for the jet sizing. Ran it for a little over a year after replacing the piston and jet. 

The only problem I had was there is no more power than the factory WCD 2V carb. I had a slightly better cam (cammed for better mid range -- 20* more duration, 0.10" more lift) and an open exhaust and air filter (I opened up the snorkel on the stock one -- used a 4" diameter can for a snorkel, that made a noticeable difference nad looked stock!). Not much more you can do with the small bore/long stroke six. That did pep it up in the mid range though -- had good cruising and even a little passing power. Didn't come in until you hit about 45 mph though, under that there was no noticeable difference. It just takes a bit of time to get the long stroker up to speed. Slightly larger valves might help, but it wouldn't be long before the intake tract would be the problem. I just don't think the machine work for larger valves would be worth while. 

A 290 can be "force fit" in there, but it's a lot of work. There's going to be some cutting involved under the hood no matter what. The "humps" on the inner fender panels need to come off. The get an idea of where to cut, look at a TSM (or under the whel well). It shows the inner and outer panels. The humps can be cut off just above the upper suspension mounting point to match the outer panels then patched back in. You will need to run the log manifolds, and may want to reverse them so that the exhaust exits near the front of the engine, at least use a right side manifold on the left (I'm pretty sure the AMC manifolds will reverse like a Chevy). I've seen that done with an SBC installation. Clears the steering much nicer. You'll need a good electronic ignition (TFI upgrade, not standard Duraspark) and platinum plugs. Plugs will be hard to get to! I don't recall on an AMC install, but that same SBC install had access holes cut through the fender wells. Taking a tire off and u!
 sing a 
long extension was easier than taking the motor most of the way out (according to the owner). The holes were only 2" diameter and accurately placed. 

For the engine mount use a universal hot-rod mount for an SBC. This can be bolted to the original rails (width between is 27", inside measurement). The pads can be drilled for AMC mounts. You'll need small AMC plates for the side of the engine (Galvin's has repops). You'll need to make a trans crossmember that mounts further back on the tranny. IIRC the engine has to be mounted a little forward of centered to clear the heater and front suspension mounts. That's not a problem -- the 196 weighs as much as a 290 (or SBC). That means you don't need to worry with the suspension either. Even the stock radiator is big enough to cool a stock small V-8. 

Those things are sprung soft -- you'll want front springs that are the same installed height with a 15% stiffer rate (~110# per inch). That will do more to decrease body roll than a 7/8" sway bar. The high spring makes the body resistant to roll. I didn't notice a sway bar except on high speed hard turns on my American or Classic (both 63s). The stiffer springs are noticeable at all speeds and don't stiffen the ride much. We have much better rodas now than back then! 

If you just want a little more power and parts availability, this is the one instance where a "foreign" engine is the best choice. Only one other in-line six or four (the intakes sticks out to far!) easily fits the 50-55 Nash Rambler/58-63 Rambler American -- the Ford 200/250 I-6 or an early model 2300 I-4. These have the intakes close to the head so the engine isn't very wide. The 2300 intake just fits, though you may want to take the left side "hump" off the fenderwell. I assisted with installing an early Pinto 2300 in a 55 Nash Rambler. The intake just cleared the hump, but the hump is a different, less prominent shape in the 50-55 models. The 200/250 intake is made onto the head like the 196, except all cast iron so you can't change carbs without machine work (also the 144 and 170, but why go smaller?). The late model 250 is a tall deck 200 and uses the SBF bell pattern, as do late model 200s (earlier ones use the samll Ford six pattern). So you need to get the trans wit!
 h the e
ngine. The T-14 will, however, fit the early Ford six bell -- Falcons used the T-96 in the early 60s. I think the 200 changed bell patterns when the 250 came out, not positive. You can find info at http://www.fordsix.com/. 

The later AMC six is just to long to fit the early American engine bay. I've heard of one. The fellow removed the heater and recessed the engine into that space. That's the only way to gain the 3-4" needed. The Ford six can be installed with minimal work -- the aforementioned universal hot-rod SBC engine mount can be modified to fit. No other modifications should be necessary.

--
Frank Swygert
Publisher, "American Motors Cars" 
Magazine (AMC)
For all AMC enthusiasts
http://farna.home.att.net/AIM.html
(free download available!)

 -------------- Original message ----------------------

> Date: Sun, 24 Dec 2006 09:22:49 -0500
> From: "M Walter" <redamc1963@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> 
> I have been watching Ebay for a long time to find a dual 1bbl carb setup for 
> a 196ohv engine. At the same time I am considering putting in a 290 that 
> I've found in my '63 american convertible. I am a pretty good fabricator, so 
> I can make the intake. However, I am concerned about starving #3 and 4 
> pistons. Also, if anyone has some advice on shoe horning a 290 into a '63 
> breadbox, I would greatly appreciate it.  Oh yeah, I fogot about the T14 
> trans that I got on Ebay.  It looks like a direct swap, pilot end appears to 
> be longer than the T96 od thats in it. I have not taken it back out to 
> compare the two yet, as the garage gets awful cold up here in northern 
> Michigan this time of year. THANK YOU all,   redamc1963@xxxxxxxxxxx
> 
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