Re: [AMC-List] carb rebuidl help

[Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>]

On Mon, 11 Dec 2006, Ken Siroonian wrote:

> wondering if anyone has a tip on rebuidling a 1 BBL YF CARB FOR A 76
> PACER. I rebuilt it about 6 months ago due to engine flooding,
> overloading with fuel, black soot out of the exhaust, engine oil was
> getting black fast and oil level higher due to the fuel. I rebuilt it
> with a new float the black fiber float- just in case. the old one I
> tested was fine anyway. now it is doing the same thing, albeit it has
> not been driven more than a few hundred miles in all that time. she
> uses it rarely, and the choke is coming off ok, but it just won't run
> right with all that fuel and the belches of black soot/smoke. any ideas 
> what I may or may not be doing right. are the adjustments that
> critical, I am following the amc spec book as well as the carb rebuild
> sheet, and the float level does not seem high or out of whack. I have
> not pulled the carb off the car yet, just the top. is there an
> adjustment I can make on the car and try again before i rebuild it. the 
> needle and seat looked ok, though I have only done these a few times. i 
> adjusted the idle screw ok as well. does that affect more than just the 
> park idle. any ideas will be apreciated. regards.

Hmm... you have a stock fuel pump? Not an aftermarket or
electric pump?

And a good clean new quality fuel filter, plumbed before
the carb?

The choke is off or disconnected, for testing? Turn it 4 -
6 or more notches LEAN, the choke plate should be open. It
would be unpleasant to drive it that way in cold weather,
but it will help for testing.

As a test, with the choke fully open, your foot OFF the throttle,
cranking the engine, the carb should stay DRY. It probably
won't start, but the carb should NOT get wet inside. If it
does, you have somethin wrong in the carb, float stuck, sunk,
dirt in the needle and seat, etc.


Some crude but simple diagnostic tests:

With car OFF! carb assembled and on car. Put clean hose on the
carb fuel inlet, blow into it. If the car was cranked previously,
the bowl should be full of gas and the needle and seat should
be CLOSED. You should NOT be able to blow into it. If you can,
or you hear even seeping of your breath into the carb, 3 -
4 psi of fuel will definitely push in there, flooding it.

You can even more crudely test the needle and seat by taking the
top off the carb, leaving the needle, set, float attached. Blow
into the fuel inlet; with the top right side up, air should
flow. Turn it upside down, it should stop. If it doesn't do that,
fix it.


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