AMC-List Digest, Vol 10, Issue 39

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Today's Topics:

   1. Re: Starter alignment (Steve Johnston)
   2. NP-129 in Michigan (Spro)
   3. Re: 1987 360 and 72 232 (farna@xxxxxxx)
   4. Re: amc windshields (farna@xxxxxxx)
   5. Re: Weird non-running issue on '82 Jeep CJ (Tom Jennings)
   6. Bouncing Speedo fix (Dan E. Curtis)
   7. Re: Weird non-running issue with '82 Jeep CJ (Jim Blair)
   8. stuff for sale (in Seattle) (Jim Blair)
   9. Free Running 258 Six Is Gone (Mr. AMC)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2006 19:24:17 -0500
From: Steve Johnston <SJohn89715@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Starter alignment
To: amcrelay@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID:
	<ADVANCES62jpHR4NQiN0000011b@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain

You probably need to shim the starter out from the housing a bit.
Starter shims are available at any automotive parts shop. Some are
designed to be installed without removing the starter, just loosing the 
nuts, and sliding them in place. This is quite common. Just don't put
too many in, or you risk the opposite problem of the starter drive not
full engaging, and damaging ring gear teeth.  Steve Johnston. 

On November 17, 2006.  Michael Pell wrote:

> '61 AMC Ramber wagon with the alum block 6 cyl (OH valves).
> 
> I had the starter rebuilt so it's working perfect now.  However,
it's
> pretty noisy as it engages and turns the flywheel, and doesn't let
go
> soon enough when the engine starts (more noise).
> FWIW, of the 2 bolts holding the starter in place, the top one is a
> special "shouldered" bolt, 3/8" threads, with a larger "shoulder".  
The
> lower bolt is a plain old 3/8" bolt.
> 
> Is there any way to adjust this starter so it will mesh better?
> Do I need a similar bolt on the bottom?
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> Mike
> 
> --
>   I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find
out there isn't, Than live my
>   life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -Blaise
Pascal
> 
>   Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com
>   TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com
>   Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold),  ACES member #1377
>   Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6
> 
> 
> 
> Mark Price wrote:
> 
> >Anyone need anything from RockAuto?
> >Here's a way to save a buck or two!
> >--
> >Mark Price
> >markprice242ATadelphia.net
> >Morgantown, WV
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >>To: markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> >>From: RockAuto Customer Service <service@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> >>Subject: Discount on RockAuto Parts!
> >>Date: Thu, 9 Nov 2006 02:04:34 -0600
> >>
> >>Thank you for being a www.RockAuto.com customer! To show our
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> >>
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> >>
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> >>
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> >>  * In our non-Java Catalog, enter your code in the "Discount Code" 
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> >>
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> >>
> >>The discount takes 5% off our already-low prices, and there's no
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guy at the corner garage--anyone you know who works on cars or trucks.
> >>
> >>This discount code expires on January 9, 2007; so don't wait!
> >>
> >>
> >>REMEMBER THE WIKI!
> >>
> >>I hope you are happy with the parts you purchased and that your car 
or truck is once again performing as it should.  Please use the
RockAuto wiki to share your experience with others.
> >>
> >>When I finish a repair on my car, I know what tools to use, what
other parts have to be removed to get to the one I'm replacing, what
fluids will splash me if I'm not careful, and other useful facts I wish 
I'd known when I started.  I also can recognize the symptoms more
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> >>
> >>Recording this knowledge in the wiki (wiki.rockauto.com) helps
others who need to fix the same problem.  It may even help you if, like 
me, you sometimes find yourself replacing the same part years later and 
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> >>
> >>The easiest way to find the relevant wiki page(s) is to open the
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> >>
> >>
> >>Thanks again for buying your auto parts at RockAuto!
> >>
> >>Tom Taylor
> >>VP Marketing
> >>www.rockauto.com
> >>service@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> >>1-866-ROCKAUTO (1-866-762-5288)
> >>(608) 661-1376
> >>
> >>
> >>If you no longer want to receive discounts or any other mail from
RockAuto, click on the link below:
>
>>http://www.rockauto.com/emaillist/emailunsub.php?step=remove&email=mar
kprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> >>
> >>
> >
> >_______________________________________________
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> >
> >
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------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2006 22:23:13 -0500
From: "Spro" <msproviero@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] NP-129 in Michigan
To: <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <001b01c70c53$369c99c0$6401a8c0@deathstar>
Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="US-ASCII"

I will give it away to the first person that wants it (and has a plan to retrieve it).  From an 84?
Grand Wagoneer, I believe.  I'll get a few pictures, including a picture of the ID tag and post a
link to them.  If anyone is interested, please contact me off-list.  I'm in Highland, MI - northwest
Detroit suburbs.

 

Again, this is a freebie.

 

 

-Spro



------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Mon, 20 Nov 2006 03:27:22 +0000
From: farna@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] 1987 360 and 72 232
To: mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx (AMC-List)
Cc: ldlyons@xxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID:
	<112020060327.5169.4561209A0008D8B40000143121602810600E029D0E00@xxxxxxx>
	

Butch, I'm just confirming the info that Andrew and the others gave you about the 87 360. You can bolt a Borg Warner trans (58-71) flexplate or flywheel to a Torque Flite (72-91 for AMC) crank. The center hole may need to be made bigger to fit the 72+ crank though. you will also need to make sure the centering pin/shaft on the Borg Wraner torque converter fits in the pilot hole of the crank. That can be accomplished with a custom made pilot bushing. I'm not sure if you can buy one that will work, but may be able to. Check Jeep applications as well as AMC car apps. You can't go the other way (TF to BW crank) without a special adapter. 

1941-71 AMC sixes use a smaller diameter bell housing than 1972 and later. Different bolt patterns -- so the early trans won't fit the later engines. You can switch bell housings though. Andrew answered this as well. As above, you shouldn't need a crank adapter, but may have to work on the flexplate. For the American the easiest thing to do is use the Gremlin transmission as well. The American uses an open driveshaft, not a torque tube like the 66 and earlier big cars. You will have to modify the trans crossmember to mount the newer trans and have the driveshaft modified, but that should be cheaper and easier than adapting the transmission. On the torque tube cars it's a bit harder because you have to change the entire rear suspension to use an open driveshaft. 
--
Frank Swygert
Publisher, "American Motors Cars" 
Magazine (AMC)
For all AMC enthusiasts
http://farna.home.att.net/AIM.html
(free download available!)


------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Mon, 20 Nov 2006 03:42:11 +0000
From: farna@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] amc windshields
To: mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx (AMC-List)
Cc: das24rules@xxxxxxxxx
Message-ID:
	<112020060342.15267.45612413000A37F700003BA321602810600E029D0E00@xxxxxxx>
	

Dave, and anyone installing one of these old windshields --
1. Mac McCoy (e-mail ramblers@xxxxxxxxxxx) has the gaskets, so do a few other AMC vendors. 
2. READ THE TSM ON INSTALLING THE GLASS!! A little sealer should be applied in the channel the glass goes in AND to the body where the gasket seats against it. A lot of "professional" windshield installers don't put sealer in the channel the glass goes in. If you don't, it will likely leak. I had mine installed by a pro, but had to take it out and reseal a few weeks later because it leaked! 
3. I usually use a thin bead of clear silicone in bopth areas. The excess (and you will get some on the outside of the gasket) cleans right off with a rag dampened with mineral spirits. 
4. These aren't hard to put in, just a little messy. Put the channel on the glass, then run a string in the channel that goes on the body with the end s meeting in the middle at the bottom. A little masking tape will hold the strings in and the string will cut the tape when necessary.  Put some sealer on the body where the rubber will sit, then set the windshield with gasket attached on the bottom channel with the lip over the edge and the ends of the string inside the car. Lean the windshield back against the car (won't go all the way) then gently pull the strings. This "flips" the rubber lip over the metal edge. Some silicone will get on this lip, that's what you will need to wipe off before it cures. Have some popsicle sticks or similar wood pieces to work the rubber where needed to keep from cutting it or scratching the paint. 

--
Frank Swygert
Publisher, "American Motors Cars" 
Magazine (AMC)
For all AMC enthusiasts
http://farna.home.att.net/AIM.html
(free download available!)


------------------------------

Message: 5
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2006 20:22:53 -0800 (PST)
From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Weird non-running issue on '82 Jeep CJ
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0611192020320.13535@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII

On Thu, 16 Nov 2006, Ken Siroonian wrote:

> I really wonder what this new ethanol fuel 10% mix is doing to our older
> cars fule tanks, lines and hoses. 

It's eating the old hoses, for sure. New hose seems OK.

But I wonder, does it make water in the gas tank (condensation,
etc) miscible with the gas, like "dry gas" (I was once an
east-coastie :-)?

My 1970 Hornet, and my 1973 parts car, have absolutely immaculate
gas tanks, I assume from being Calif. cars their whole life,
not much tank-condensation circumstance here.


------------------------------

Message: 6
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2006 22:04:00 -0700
From: "Dan E. Curtis" <d.curtis@xxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] Bouncing Speedo fix
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID:
	<30954302.1163999040361.JavaMail.root@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

Regarding the bouncing speedo problem, it is caused by the speedo drive wire being not properly seated at either the tranny end or the speedo end which causes the wire within the sheathing to bind on the sheathing as is spins from the tranny gear.  I have had this same simptom too many times to recall in my 35+ years of AMC ownership and th fix is to disconnect the speedo cable from the back fo the speedometer, pull the internal wire out a couple of inches from the sheating and rotate it before inserting back into the sheathing so that it is aligned properly with the gear on the tranny end of the cable.  Then reinsert back into the speedo and keep your fingers crossed that everything is aligned so the the innner wire no longer binds on the exterior sheating.

I recently had to pull my speedo to the wires on the back of the tach and when I put it back in the needle was bouncing badly between 20 and 30 and had a slight wiggle above 50.  After disconnecting, rotating and reconnecting the cable a couple of times as described above, everything worked as it had before I pulled the speedo so just keep on trying and you will end up with the corret alignment of ends of the internal wire, tranny gear and at the speedo gauge gear.
--
Best Regards,
Dan Curtis
d.curtis@xxxxxxx
602 317 2018


------------------------------

Message: 7
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2006 21:51:28 -0800
From: "Jim Blair" <carnuck@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Weird non-running issue with '82 Jeep CJ
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <BAY114-F517F7B4D9CD43743406C2ACED0@xxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed

Just out of curiosity, did you say you had a semi-radical cam in there? If 
so, you want a power valve that opens at lower vacuum or it will be open at 
idle and flood you out. I see quite a few Motorcrafts have trouble with the 
float absorbing gas and sinking or the needle and seat getting "kinked" 
during install.
   I set the float by putting the carb upside down and seeing if it's level.

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------------------------------

Message: 8
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2006 22:14:54 -0800
From: "Jim Blair" <carnuck@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] stuff for sale (in Seattle)
To: mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <BAY114-F8B56E0ABBB902CB19178AACED0@xxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed

Tonight I sat down and figured out I need to sell off any big stuff I don't 
need. Namely the 327 Nash Jeep motor (from an @'66 Wagoneer) or any parts 
thereof. I have the flexplate and adapter ring to hook it up to a TH400 
along with the starter and exhaust manifolds. Only a couple pieces missing 
off it and that is the PS and AC brackets (look the same as the ones on my 
'73 J4000's original motor) and 2 bbl carb. Open to offers complete or parts 
thereof. (I have a working nailhead TH400 that is due for overhauling but 
still functions that will be coming out of my J4000 as soon as I can get to 
it)
   401/360/304 to nailhead TH400 bell adapter ring with crank spacer and 304 
flexplate will be available at that time as well. (didn't require a special 
starter) I forgot my camera or I'd have pics of it all.


Another thing I have for sale is a FSJ 6 cyl motor mount setup. (good for 
converting a V8 rig to run a 4.2L or 4.0L) I have the frame horns and engine 
brackets along with Energy Suspension motor mounts to fit. Asking $100 obo 
for the setup (mounts are brand new)
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y209/carnuck/DSC02507.jpg

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------------------------------

Message: 9
Date: Mon, 20 Nov 2006 06:54:55 -0500
From: AMC74Hornet@xxxxxxxxx (Mr. AMC)
Subject: [AMC-List] Free Running 258 Six Is Gone
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx, BaadAssGremlins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <17451-4561978F-7455@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII

My son finally cleaned out my rented storage room of all the parts I
could not give away or could not use and took them to the dump. Included
was the 1979 258 six. The few remaining parts were for Hornets and they
are now stored in my garage. There's 113$ a month I don't have to pay
any more. Now if I could only get my sons 74 Javelin out of my garage so
I can put my yellow Hornet in there with the orange one I would be
happy.
"Doc"



------------------------------

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End of AMC-List Digest, Vol 10, Issue 39
****************************************