Re: [AMC-List] Weird non-running issue on '82 Jeep CJ

[Ken Siroonian <KSiroonian@xxxxxxx>]

Assume it is a BBD like other amc cars of the era, since 80 if they
have any dirt in the carb or vac leaks they will not run right. I hear
they get dirty easily and thats a major cause of the issue. though my
81 concord with the bbd is running good at the moment. I use shell gas
as it has the most detergents, highest percent over the government
standard of any fuel sold here in the east. I have a list of those
fuels with the most deteregents and will try to publish it soon.  I
really wonder what this new ethanol fuel 10% mix is doing to our older
cars fule tanks, lines and hoses. Any way, maybe it is a candidate for
the Nutter bypas, or how about that stepper motor in the back of the
carburetor that is acting up, stuck or not connected properly? I think
that when the ignition is turned on and you look down the carb you
shoudl be able to see the motor move the needle in, out and then in
again. just a thought.
regards.


On November 16, 2006 Nick Lenarz wrote:

> I've been up and down the list looking for clues, but nothing that
> sounds like the problem I'm having, so here's my first post to the
> group.
>    The patient: 1982 Jeep CJ-8 Scrambler, 258 I-6 bored .040 in '98,
> fitted with Comp Cams #252h (P/N 68-200-4) and a Cloyes Tru-Roller
kit
> set to the 3* advanced notches. Intake and exhaust are stock, with a
> glasspack and Catco 400CFM cat on the exh. and a recently cleaned
and
> rebuilt Motorcraft 2100 (1.08 bore with #48 jets, 16" PV) on the
int.
> Ignition has been converted to a GM HEI module coupled to the stock
> Motorcraft distributor and Ford TFI upgrade kit (cap, adapter,
plugs,
> coil). Bosch Platinums have been gapped to .050.
>    The symptoms: Engine won't stay running. It starts fine, but dies
> off instantly. I can keep it running if I 'blip' the throttle, but if 
I
> hold it constant, it runs for a few seconds, then dies off quickly.
> This occurs at any throttle position/RPM, almost as if it's running
out
> of gas, but it's as sudden as turning the key off. Changing plug gap
> has no effect.
>    On the occasions I can get it to idle, it will not run without
the
> idle mix screws backed out at least 4 turns and the choke mostly
> closed. When tuning, it will run at 6-8* BTDC, but acts like it's
way
> retarded (snapping back into the exhaust manifold). If I tune for
best
> idle/vac, it runs better, but the timing is off the rack (24*+) and
it
> dies as soon as I go off-idle.
>    I've been told I have a vacuum leak, and the vacuum IS low (max
of
> 16 inHg) but I'm hard-pressed to find one. The manifolds are tight
to
> the engine, and have Stage 8 locking fasteners on them. The MC2100
is
> bolted to the intake with a custom-milled adapter made from 1" thick
> billet aluminum. The choke vacuum port in the base of the carb has
been
> epoxied shut, with a machine screw threaded in for good measure. The
> heater plate in the intake is intact, the EGR valve doesn't work but
is
> definitely closed (checked it by blowing thru the intake port and
> pressing on the pintle to open and close the valve). The manifold
> vacuum port above the EGR valve has teflon tape on the threads and
is
> very tight, and has been capped during testing.
> 
> Any suggestions are much appreciated, I'm just stumped.
> 
> Thanks,
> Nick
> 
> 
> 
> 
>
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